Fashion frenzy went into overdrive on day two of Fashion Pakistan Week (FPW). Although designer collections on the runway are expected to be high on the risk quotient, some fashion staples supersede fads. Most of the evening’s showcases were testament to the fact that colours, such as black, white and gold, can never go out of style. While some designers played with monochromes, juxtaposing eastern and western trends, others went a tad overboard with the eastern element to their collections, making them better suited for bridal showcases. The Express Tribune gives a round-up of the fashion hits and misses of the evening.
Collection name: ‘Everything But the Girl’
Trend alert: Perwani remained true to his signature style in his collection, which was solely dedicated to men. While the ramp saw velvet, silks and a tinge of jamawar in suits, coats and jackets, the royal blue velvet suit was a standout piece. The leather bags accentuated the dapper element of the collection.
What we liked best: The maroon and black velvet sherwani led the pack.
Collection name: ‘Misaki’
Trend alert: Contrasting black with light hues, such as beige, nude and gold, the dominantly western capsule collection comprised cocktail dresses and ball skirts. It featured autumn-centric landscapes of traditional Japanese folding paper screens, which depicted the serenity of the subsequent winter season. With digital prints of deers and birds, the line was reminiscent of the earthiness of the season. Shehla made use of the Japanese basket-weaving technique to create the crop tops, belts and luxe cape jackets. Minimalistic boxed clutches completed the look.
What we liked best: The black floor-skimming dress embellished with gold embroidery was aesthetically pleasing.
Collection name: ‘Alpha’
Trend alert: The collection failed to leave a mark. Although military-inspired apparel has been a dominant trend on runways across the globe, the line failed to deliver. Although ‘Alpha’ is a spelling alphabet used by the military, which refers to the one who commands, the collection didn’t manage to maintain its stronghold on the runway. Rajput bombed out with this collection when we hoped he would come out of the trenches and bring a unique twist to the trending military cuts.
What we liked best: The green army suit donned with a matching military cap.
Collection name: ‘Bano’
Trend alert: ‘Bano’, inspired by Chaudhri’s grandmother, featured hues of ivory, wine red, black and burnished gold. The designer experimented with velvet, plush, lace-net and silk with intricate dull gold embroidery. With heavy embellishments and embroidery, the collection seemed like a better fit for bridal week. Comprising snug kotis, flowing cloaks, structured baleros, saris and harem dhotis, the collection tipped towards the eastern end of the fashion scale more than the western. The plain black velvet khussas were a fashion faux pas and did nothing to accentuate the outfits.
What we liked best: The white sari with a full-sleeved blouse and gold work around the shoulders and on the pallu was elegant and timeless.
Huma Adnan for FnkAsia
Collection name: ‘Folk Spirit’
Trend alert: Having drawn inspiration from the global folk spirit, Adnan brought forth a fusion of classic separates, including tailored skirts, jackets and waistcoats with intricate detailing. The colour palette boasted vibrant hues, such as yellow, orange and red, highlighted with black and gold and bead embroidery. The handmade anklets and embroidered leggings were a sure-fire winner on the runway.
What we liked best: The blue printed crop top coupled with a low-waist white-fitted tailored skirt was a knockout.
Deepak Kumar and Fahad Yaqoob
Collection name: ‘Siyah-Sufaid’
Trend alert: While using black and white is considered ‘safe’, the designers set the runway on fire with a line that exuded the monochromatic aspects of winter: white, foggy days and dark, long nights. They put forth a collection with delicate embroidery on fabrics, such as cotton, chiffon, silk, leather and suede. Button-down shirts, capes, blazers and, our favourite, the fishtail dress, were among the pieces that the collection brought forth. With both straight and flowy silhouettes, the collection was a definite winner on the runway.
What we liked best: The fitted white and black sequinned mini dress riveted the audience’s attention.
Collection name: ‘Labyrinth’
Trend alert: The collection was inspired by Japanese, Chinese, Greek and African designs, along with Islamic pattern compositions with graphic stencil-like detailing. Featuring embroidery on tapered jackets, skirts, saris, dresses and suits made of silk, crepe, chiffon and net, among other fabrics, the collection was aesthetically appealing. Jewellery and headgears inspired from shapes, such as Origami structures, were embellished with pearls and semi-precious stones.
What we liked best: The monochrome sari with a printed pallu was the most striking piece of the collection.
Watch the slideshow of FPW 2014 day two here
Published in The Express Tribune, November 28th, 2014.