PLBW 2014: For better, not for worse

Runway set ablaze with collections stronger than those of the preceding evening

LAHORE:

The heart of Pakistani fashion beat faster on the second day of the PFDC L’Oréal Paris Bridal Week (PLBW) 2014. With showcases that were streets ahead of those from day one, the ramp was lit up with creatively charged collections by designers Fahad Hussayn and Ali Xeeshan.

Prints juxtaposed with embellishments are the rising trend this season, which every designer experimented with.

Another runway favourite has been the use of garara with sequins on sheer net.

The ‘Rising Talent’ section comprised promising collections, and Zara Shahjahan’s intricately embroidered Pashmina shawls were bang-on trend.

Fahad Hussayn

The ‘Putlighar’ collection was the most creatively advanced collection of the evening. Hussayn’s cuts and drapery are well beyond his time with immaculate fitting and attention to detail. Organza with appliquéd prints and sheer cut-worked backs brought his collection together. The highlight of the showcase was the head gears that Hussayn created to give the models an illusion of dolls from Thatta. What many designers fail to understand is that accessories are a must as they create a link between the collection and concept. Hussayn created a perfect blend of aristocratic grandeur and avant-garde glamour by giving equal importance to the apparel and accessories.

Shamaeel Ansari

Shamaeel Ansari’s first collection at the PFDC titled ‘The Wedding’ set out to deconstruct the wedding outfit and focus on the diverse aspects of bridal wear. Overall, Ansari presented a well-thought-out assemblage of pieces, showcasing the breadth of her work through recreation of antique tankas in zardozi with thread work. While the collection was exquisitely beautiful and each piece was designed carefully, Ansari’s work predominantly catered to an older, more mature woman. There was a vast variety of cuts, ranging from free-flowing silhouettes to structured jackets. Embellishments and cuts aside, what really stood out in her collection was her use of quality fabrics.

Zara Shahjahan

Showcasing a diverse range of bridals, the ‘A Folk Tale’ collection resonated Shahjahan’s signature aesthetic. While the collection had its fair share of hits and misses, her embroidered shawls were the real star of the evening. She also experimented with gaara embroidery on sheer nets. Shahjahan plays around with embellished prints in her collection. For the first time, the design house ventured into the realm of menswear and produced elegant sherwanis, proving that, as far as menswear is concerned, less is always more.

Ammara Khan

Her collection ‘The Winter Palace’ at PFDC was not muted by a long shot. Her structure was sound and while there were some beautiful elements in the formals, the bridals were a little over the top and could do away with some of the add-ons. The bridal outfits were over-crowded, heavily embellished with crystals and chunky stones. Her embellished pants with symmetrically lined pearls and rosettes added drama to her collection. Her cut-work peplum jacket was one of the best pieces in the collection and the gold tissue lehenga, worn by Nadia Ali, displayed craftsmanship.

Ali Xeeshan Theatre Studio

Ali Xeeshan’s ‘Baghawat’ was the most dramatic collection of the evening. One can trust Xeeshan to not only put on a fantastic show, but also be bold with the colour choices he makes. The ensembles were embellished with motifs reminiscent of the Ancient Roman culture. He is, by far, one of the most favourable designers for a bride-to-be, who loves colour. He embellished the printed lehengas, reinforcing the fact that this trend is here to stay. His collection included his signature textured fabrics and gotta work. His symbolic styling, which resonated with the ongoing political situation in Pakistan, added extra depth to his collection.

The Rising Talent show

The sponsored segment showcased five emerging bridal designers — Akif Mahmood, Mahgul, Seher Tareen, Sofia Badar and Wardha Saleem. Here’s a breakdown of the three collections that led the pack in the category.

Mahgul: ‘The Wild Rose’ collection was well-thought-out and well-executed. The collection was the designer’s first bridal ramp showcase, and explored her interpretation of femininity. With a colour palette that comprised hues of the setting sun, the collection included heavy silk silhouettes embellished with gold threads, feathers and mother of pearl. Mahgul put in thought into her accessories and produced a range of handbags, shoes and jewellery to accompany the outfits. From the birdcage clutch to the wedged kohlapuri, there were elements in her collection that kept one on the edge of one’s seat.

Wardha Saleem: She has been a prêt-wear designer for a few years now with her own range of prints and lawn, so her label should not have been put in the ‘Rising Talent’ section. With her bridal collection titled ‘Madhubani by Wardha Saleem’, she brought her signature aesthetic to the fore, which included a fusion of vibrant colours. Having said that, some of her pieces, especially the ‘tree of life’ outfit, bore striking resemblance to what Sania Maskatiya showcased last year at PLBW.

Seher Tareen: The Studio S designer made her bridal debut with a capsule women’s wear collection entitled ‘The Emperor’s Assassins’. Tareen produced a cohesive collection, wherein her cut-worked sari blouse and embellished tissue dupattas stood out. Her representation of the ‘Emperor’s Assassins’ was a literal one, with embroideries focusing on creating historic imagery. It will take the design house a few more seasons to get the styling right to make their collection look more visually pleasing.

Watch a slideshow of images from day 2 here.

 

Published in The Express Tribune, October 3^rd, 2014.

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