Rano Usman: On saris and the sub-continent

The designer blends together a multitude of cultures to create unique, aesthetic designs.

LAHORE: Rano Usman of Rano’s Heirlooms is known for keeping tradition alive. Her latest exhibit features her new collection which has the vocabulary of the sub-continent embedded within the embroidery.

Rano stays true to her aesthetic and style, with her old school embroidery and modern cuts. One may find a mosque, temple, ships of the East India Company; anything symbolic of the British Raj in the sub-continent can be found in the outfits.

Usman considers her conversational piece saris her biggest strength. PHOTOS: SHAFIQ MALIK/EXPRESS

Lucknow is the ‘melting pot’ of various cultures — Hindu, Persian and British. Through centuries, these communities have created a rhapsody of colours, patterns and textiles; each telling a unique story, yet all blending together in a sweet melody. Rano’s Heirlooms present homage to the creativity, artistry, finesse, finery, music and poetry of the bygone era; and to the legacy of exquisite workmanship that still lives on for those who enjoy collectible textiles.

“I am taking a new direction with my work,” explains Rano, “I want to work with storylines now. This is the start of a new chapter for me and I enjoy telling stories. I’d love to recreate the Mutiny of 1856 on a sari.” With the desire to make each piece an heirloom, Rani makes a statement with her saris.

Those acquainted with Rano’s work know about her conversational piece saris. With more vibrant colors and styles, Rano’s Heirlooms’ saris have become even more beautiful than before. Exquisite workmanship on cotton net makes the sari versatile and wearable all year round. From pale olive green to shades of teal, Rano Usman plays with colors. However, her cream and ivory cotton net saris are equally impactful.

“I’ve always wanted to stick to saris because I feel like it’s my forte,” says Rano, “to me they speak out the most and you go the whole 6 yards to experience the story.”

From architectural cut work to waist coats paired with ghagras, everything about Rano’s collection screams sub-continent. It is all in the details when it comes to Rano’s work, and one must have the patience to not only judge the external beauty of the outfits, but also analyse the details in order to truly understand Rano’s fairy tales depicted on the outfits she designs.

Usman considers her conversational piece saris her biggest strength. PHOTOS: SHAFIQ MALIK/EXPRESS

Even though the embroidery she employs is very traditional, there is a certain old school edge to her outfits that tends to attract edgy fashionistas. Rano’s Heirlooms takes tradition towards the more edgy front.

Published in The Express Tribune, January 27^th, 2014.

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