PFDC Bridal Week 2013 Top 10 Trends to Keep

The reviews are in and with the exception of a few ill-conceived collectives, PFDC L’Oreal Paris Bridal Week (PLBW) 2013 was a testimony to the highly developed nature of our couture industry, made up of both upcoming talent and veterans along with the artisans working tirelessly behind the scenes.

However, for the most part, showcased bridal wear leaned undeniably towards traditional age-old silhouettes with a few modern tweaks, resisting outright risks and unexplored territory. Some brave souls who ventured forward, more than others, included The House of Kamiar Rokni, Sania Maskatiya, SanaSafinaz and Fahad Hussayn. When bursts of creativity appear on the ramp, pieces get absorbed into mindsets and evolve into trends. Let’s take stock of the trends born at PLBW 2013.

Fifty Shades of Gold:

SanaSafinaz. PHOTO: FAISAL FAROOQUI

One of the most glaringly popular colours on the ramp was gold. A multitude of rich gold-shaded painted fabrics in tissue, net, brocade, and penetrated embellishments in gota, zardozi, mukesh, metallic sequins, and threadworks.

Deena Rahman, Asifa & Nabeel & HSY. PHOTO: FAISAL FAROOQUI

From ethnic yellow gold gota to metallic and oxidized jewel shades, the message was clear — if you’re getting married or heading to a wedding, make sure you go for gold. Topping the list of colours chosen to compliment the golds were unassuming whites, velvety blacks, and mysterious midnight blues.

Sheer Joy:

Zara Shahjahan. PHOTO: FAISAL FAROOQUI

Layered sheers sung beautifully but would have been incomplete without another trend that cloaked the best collectives — luxuriant net and romantic tissue fabrics. Voluminous lowers created out of the transparent medium floated majestically down the ramps at Elan, Zara Shahjahan and Misha Lakhani among others. Organza inserts and panels were equally charming at Fahad Hussayn and Asifa & Nabeel. For a distinct vintage glamour, the netted fabrics in subdued hues of lime, ivory, topaz, and pastels were by far the prettiest, and blessed the sheer layers with a divine grace.

Cutting Edge:

Zara Shahjahan, Nomi Ansari. PHOTO: FAISAL FAROOQUI

Hemlines were knocked off cold with angarkhas, short kurtas, and the classic peshwas being hiked up above the knee like a breath of fresh air at Deena Rahman, Fahad Hussayn, SanaSafinaz, Nomi Ansari, and Zara Shahjahan among many others. Printed and brocade silk chooridars balanced the volume up top. Kurtas were constructed with minimal fuss and short slits with skinny cigarette pants. We sincerely hope this style catches on so that at least when attending weddings, we can finally move on from the complicated weighty trails and exhausting panels.

Jacket Brigade:

Ali Xeeshan, Fahad Hussayn. PHOTO: FAISAL FAROOQUI

Modern outerwear separates over traditional silhouettes are rapidly becoming more natural and acceptable as the norm. Designers like Fahad Hussayn, Kamiar Rokni, Sania Maskatiya, SanaSafinaz, Misha Lakhani, Ali Xeeshan and Asifa & Nabeel did a tremendous job of involving cute bolero vests, collared blazers, longs sherwani capes and poncho jackets over saris, lehengas, and kurtas. It is the perfect tool to add interest and dimension to a creation, allowing for both vintage and fusion elements. The separates allow certain individuality to the wearer who can construct and deconstruct at will.

Floral Finesse:

Zara Shahjahan, Fahad Hussayn. PHOTO: FAISAL FAROOQUI

Zara Shahjahan provided a tint of innovation to wedding wear for the urban bride by merging statement floral-printed lehengas, cholis, kurtas and chooridars with sheer tissue overlay and sparkling sequined and zardozi detailing imposed on to the motifs. The pockets on her gharara skirts were an exciting feature and the vintage English theme translated effortlessly on to a contemporary Eastern form. The successful interplay of print and embellishment for wedding wear was a major trendsetting accomplishment.

Sari Struck:

Asifa & Nabeel, Misha Lakhani & Elan by Khadijah Shah.

PHOTO: FAISAL FAROOQUI

Saris took the lead at many of the showcases, most often in antique and metallic gold net, tissue and textured silks. Awe-inspiring versions of the sari lehenga were spotted at SanaSafinaz and Misha Lakhani while Elan worked with delicate detailed pastel drapes. Nomi Ansari and Sadaf Malaterre opted for beautiful shaded and colour blocked versions, and Asifa & Nabeel did a wonderful attached short jacket blouse paired with a minimalist white sari.

Sharara Shananigans:

SanaSafinaz, Elan by Khadijah Shah. PHOTO: FAISAL FAROOQUI

Designers had plenty of fun with the vintage feminine sharara putting a clever palazzo spin on it and pairing it with separates such as cholis, short kurtis and capes.

Sania Maskatiya. PHOTO: FAISAL FAROOQUI

The lehenga with legs made quite the comeback and was also absorbed into the beloved jumpsuit at SanaSafinaz. The versatile silhouette goes from mehendi to reception, depending on how you construct or deconstruct it with separates.

Colour Blocked:

Nomi Ansari, House of Kamiar Rokni. PHOTO: FAISAL FAROOQUI

The rise of separates paved a natural path for experimental colour blocking as each piece picked an independent hue to compliment the other. The result was especially inspiring at the House of Kamiar Rokni as printed cummerbunds played with bright yellow oriental capes, fashion forward layering stood out at Sania Maskatiya, and at Ali Xeeshan where a kaleidoscope of coloured threadworks danced on a single ghaghra paired with a solid contrast choli and dupattas. An explosion of colour was witnessed at Nomi Ansari and SanaSafinaz taught us the art of colour blocking with white and black for a strikingly one-of-a-kind bridal. Shaded colour blocking took a festive turn at Sadaf Malaterre with soft feminine lehengas and saris.

Midnight Blues:

Fahad Hussayn, Zara Shahjahan & Misha Lakhani.

PHOTO: FAISAL FAROOQUI

Deep blue was the colour of choice at many of the showcases infusing a sense of royalty and majesty into the bridal ensembles at Fahad Hussayn, HSY, Misha Lakhani, Elan, Asifa & Nabeel, and Zara Shahjahan. In each case, the hue was used with rich metallic gold fabric layers and embellishments for a spectacular effect. Shades of navy, indigo, and electric blue make for a stunning choice for the winter bridal season.

Bollywood Cholis:

Ali Xeeshan, Sadaf Malaterre. PHOTO: FAISAL FAROOQUI

Designers made extensive use of the Indian inspired choli with lehengas, and ghararas sometimes pushing the cropped blouse to its limit. Misha Lakhani used then elegantly as inners for sheer layers and Khadijah Shah employed them at their classic best with full skirts. Sania Maskatiya converted them to vests as well as in their traditional form, while Ali Xeeshan applied them as sleek minimalist crop tops over his elaborately adorned ghararas.

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Published in The Express Tribune, October 20^th, 2013.

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