Secret Closet: Micro Trends at Spring 2014 RTW London, Paris, Milan Fashion Weeks

Last week, we did a wrap up of the Spring Summer’14 NYFW top 10, and this week, we head over to London, Paris, and Milan to take in the flavoursome ready-to-wear (RTW) trends inspired by different cultures and a summery mindset. Our round-up includes rich accessories that provided an interesting angle to the clothes especially at Roberto Cavalli and Dolce & Gabbana. If you love print, you will lose yourself in the delightful ‘40s swirling fluid patterns at Etro.

Coin Toss

Dolce & Gabbana

Dolce & Gabbana retreated into the larger than life Renaissance world of rich cameo paintings and sheer opulence, that confounded the senses, but is in no way surprising — what one can expect from the label. If anything, for Dolce, it was understated. However, what we loved most were the oversize gold coin-plated belts and everything else that the coins adorned — shoes, jewelry, handbags and even hair accessories. We can spot this trend creating waves from a mile away.

What’s in a Name?

Emilio Pucci, Versace

There was an emphasis on statement logos at Versace and Emilio Pucci as well as at Alexander Wang and DKNY in New York. While the latter two went for a more repetitive letter pattern, the former embraced loud metallic cameo symbols emblazoned on their accessories to announce their mark. This technique is more of a return to a few decades ago when overt logos were a popular trend.

Culottes; A Cut Above

Tod’s, Etro

Who would have ever thought culottes would make a comeback and that too with a completely new persona. Having its modest roots in France, culottes were big in the ‘60s and ‘70s. However, they faded away for being awkward and unflattering. Now they are everywhere from being spotted on the chicest of fashionistas such as Victoria Beckham, to the shows of Etro, Tod’s, and Rag & Bone among others. Seemingly simple the tailoring and fabric are crucial with this shape that can go easily from sophisticated to silly with a stitch or an inch out of place.

Hanging by a Thread

Proenza Schouler,  Roberto Cavalli

While this cow boy trend has been playing the field on and off over time, it came back in a huge way not just on the clothes but more so on accessories. Roberto Cavalli executed it brilliantly using leather tassle accents on handbags, belts, and necklaces, employing them cleverly to impart more seductive qualities than we thought was possible with the rustic technique.

Kerchiefs and Vests

Etro

This was one of our favourite trends spotted at Etro, where versions of the same print were paired on handkerchief tie scarves and boho vests. The added liquid gold from another separate was just the cherry on top of this delicious trend. The look is bohemian chic with soft feminine elements that flow oh so well.

Polka Picks

Burberry Prorsum,  Dolce & Gabbana

Polka dots are always fun but they can be both girly and make a statement. For Spring/Summer’14, the mood was definitely bold and eye catching. The spots were seen centre stage at Dolce & Gabbana and Burberry Prorsum.

Textures Welcome

Fendi,  Tom Ford, Bottega Veneta

More than a few design houses experimented with pairing and layering different fabric textures in an effort to create depth and dimension. This was most glaring at Tom Ford, Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi, and Bottega Veneta where it often involved the use of leather separates or patches sewn together with silk or organza representing the symbolic balance of hard and soft, power and femininity.

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Published in The Express Tribune, September 28^th, 2013.

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