A little about Emirates: the crew on board my Lahore to Dubai flight spoke Urdu, English, Tagalog, Korean, Chinese, Japanese and German; and that on the Dubai-Beirut sector, French, English, Arabic, Polish, Russian, and Malayalam! Shows just how big this airline has become while ours is now just a regional airline with one or two international routes left to it. Pity.
Since I was overtired, I did not sleep well that night and was lying awake when early in the morning the sweet notes of the most beautiful Azaan I had heard in years floated across downtown Beirut. I got up and went onto the balcony of my room, and listened to the melodious voice of the Imam of the Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque, built by the assassinated prime minister of Lebanon, Rafik Hariri, in the Martyrs’ Square just across from my hotel.
No matter how intently I listened, there was not a sound of another Azaan competing with this one; not one other call to prayer that I could hear. They must have their mosques spread over the city according to some method; not madly like in our country where the most beautiful Azaans are drowned out by others that are louder and shriller on purpose, issuing from mosques built very near one another.
Mr Hariri, a fabulously wealthy man, built the Al-Amin Mosque with his own funds when he started the reconstruction of the city after the devastating Civil War which all but destroyed Beirut. It is a beautiful, well-proportioned building: a miniature version of the Blue Mosque of Istanbul.
Immediately to one side of the Mosque is the St. George Maronite Cathedral, and on the other, the house of the Archbishop. On Friday, first the church bells rang out and then, an hour later, the Azaan calling the faithful to Juma prayers. While people are a bit wary, Beirut today seems the epitome of tolerance: religions and sects living in complete harmony.
The reconstruction of the Martyrs’ Square and its quite lovely old buildings has been meticulously planned and restoration carried out as near to the original as possible. The shop signs are discreet and the general feeling as one walks about the square and its various streets is one of serenity and peace.
Rafik Hariri and those that died with him in that horrific bombing are buried in the shadow of his Mosque, his grave in one chamber and those of the others in an adjoining one, all under a huge tent propped up by steel girders. It is a temporary structure people say, signifying that Hariri’s murderers are yet to be traced until which time he will not lie in peace.
Beirut is a great mixture of East and West; Muslim and Christian: the people soft-spoken; elegant, and refined. Whilst there is the presence of the orthodox and hard-line Hezbollah in the city itself, women wear what they feel like wearing without fear of being ogled at or harassed otherwise by men staring at them lasciviously as happens in the Land of the Pure which regresses ever further, by the day.
Meanwhile, back at the ranch one more general has blown the whistle on his former colleagues and comrades regarding the fiasco that was Kargil. This time it is Lt Gen Shahid Aziz once DG (Analysis) ISI when the Kargil balloon went up; later CGS and then chairman NAB. Once again the whistle has been blown too late, and many years after the fiasco played itself out and showed us up to the whole world as the dysfunctional people we are.
We already knew much of what Aziz tells us, first from our free-wheeling and juvenile Commando himself when he bad-mouthed a gentlemanly chief of our air force publicly and people began to cast about for the reason of the Commando’s pique. It turned out then, fully eight years ago, that only four or five people knew about Kargil, not even the Corps Commanders, leave alone the other Service Chiefs.
As an aside, reader, this shows how decision-making is done in the “most powerful, most efficient institution in the country”, what. (I mean if this is the state of the “most efficient institution in the country” we are really done for, no?) And then the Commando has the gall to say India ‘over-reacted’ to what he engineered in Kargil! Would India not over-react, dash it all? Wouldn’t we, if we were attacked? Stand up, Humayun Gohar.
But back to Shahid Aziz. Why did he wait 13 years before saying what he knew? Why did he not object when he was in the ISI and first came to know through Indian intercepts that something was afoot up in Kargil, something that he realised at that time would come to no good? Why wait until the damage was done and the opprobrium of the world was our lot?
It is too tempting not to think that Aziz waited until he had exhausted all his postings and the perks and goodies that come a Lt Gen’s way as he progresses up the ladder of seniority. For example, QMG plots in generals’ colonies in cantonments across the country? As another, mayhap an ambassadorial appointment? And God alone knows what else... . Only he can tell us why he waited so long.
Really, we’ve been through so much at the hands of our Rommels and Guderians that it is about time they laid off and let this country’s elected representatives guide its destiny. The elections are upon us; and we have an excellent man as our Chief Election Commissioner. Let him do his duty as best as he knows, and let every political party have a fair shot in the polls.
We’ll get there one day; yes, we will.
Published in The Express Tribune, February 1st, 2013.
COMMENTS (37)
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Its nice to hear how a few days in a touristy area of beiruit have inspired you. And inspiration is important.
Not to take away from how progressive and tolerant Beirut is, but it would have been better perspective for readers had you mentioned the 15 year Lebanese civil war which killed 120k people and led to mass exodus of another million. I have friends in Lebanon who say that even today, gun battles between rival ethnic and religious groups break out across the country quite frequently, depending on which warlord is in the vogue (pro Syria, Hezbollah, Christians, Sunnis, Shias, etc).
I hope we find a better way if "getting there"... At the moment we seem to be on a similar track as Lebanon!!!
@Hunter Punter: "Clinton called nawaz and told him to withdraw and if the indian army went on war, US will stop all supplies and aid to pakistan, causing it to collapse"
Pakistani officers left the front positions. All supply routes to Pakistani army Jawans were cut off. Pakistan tried to save its soldiers and asked Clinton's help.
US is very soft on Pakistan. Six Americans were among the 162 people killed by LeT/ISI trained ten terrorists in Bombay on 26/11, USA did nothing, except convicting Dawood Gilani and Rana for terrorism related charges.
Why so confused? This guy wants to say so many things and used jargain after after .... another typical army officer: my english is better than yours. O bhaisaab use 5 or 6 more linea As far as article is concerned, yeah thanks we knew it
For India , Kargil was biggest intelligence failure and for Pakistan it was monumental error of judgment . She grossly under estimated Indian resolve and capabilities . Hope such things don't happen in future .
@Parvez: Certainly an impartial CEC's role is very important to ensure that those elected do truly reflect the will of the people. But for democracy to flourish it is equally important for citizenry to stay engaged and continue to hold their elected representatives accountable. This is because no matter how effective the CEC, a lot of corrupt people will get elected because people can only choose from available options and all available candidates maybe either criminal or corrupt. Even if they were not corrupt prior to the election, they can become corrupt once elected. A person who is honest may also be incompetent. So people have to stay engaged.
@Jangloos: "do you really want to leave Pakistan in hands of publicly elected candidates ?"
What is the option you would like to suggest? A government of technocrats? Well let us view the record of that. First time it led to creation of Bangladesh. Second time it led to the drug and gun culture and third time it led to aggravating the Baloch insurgency and participation in waron terror.
@Foreign Leg: you really need to read up on the history of the region. Not through zionist eyes either.
Old Chap, before you start waxing eloquent about Emirates Airline and or Lebanon, try and get some perspective and do some research, what what. It obviously behoves all dunderheads to be in awe of places to which they are superficially exposed. Without going into any elaborate history lesson, suffice it to say, Lebanon has long history of internecine conflict, and in recent times a disgusting oppressive and racist behaviour towards the Palestinians. Too much to expect a pecksniffian to understand, specially one so enamored by the perfidious albion. Tally ho, ta ta, cherry bye bye.
Let us separate travelogues from serious comments.
Dear Shafisahab, Happy to see you back & read your column after almost a 4-week gap. "Tribune" without your columns tasted too bland.
However, I consider the exposé of double-dealing Musharraf by Lt Gen. Aziz in the same vein as many exposés in your column. Exposing bad deeds of your army is needed to ensure that they take orders from duly-elected civilian govt & don't behave like 'Almighty'. So Shahid Aziz & the like need all the support, particularly from veterans like you! Amen!!
Welcom back Shafi Sahab! Cammando is a liar, now hiding like mouse in Enland, he will never come back to Pakistan. If he ever does come back, govt. should try him for treason. This operation cost paksitan around $700 million dollars.
@G. Din: i think you are a christian pretending to be hindu
A great Op Ed by KS, thanks ET for publishing it. You have raised some imp questions regarding the less than honest behavior of our generals. I have a feeling that some generals have an epiphany in their old age to become honest before their demise. It is like a typical student who never works hard but takes the short courses just before the finals. We don’t want to be honest, patriotic all our lives but in the old age join Tableegi Jamat or try to become pious of a sudden. God would judge us on our lifetime work and honesty and not after we had no chance and strength to exploit the riches.
The 4 man show AKA planners of kargil did not anticpate what would happen when the Indian Air defence started bombing?. They should be court marshalled for starting war without authorization from Prime Minister. It's a treason by any law.
@Indian Catholic: Watch both Egypt and Iraq following suit!
Leaves me wondering if there are some ethics followed in selecting the higherups in Pakistan Army Or it's "the dumber u are the higher u go ;)
One thing that makes me wonder. Has anyone figured who finances Musharaff in an expensive country like UK? He apparently lives in luxury there?
Is it only the lecture circuits or some other source?
Coming to lecture circuits, why would anyone want to hear a useless, deranged, lying loser?
Lebanon once was a Christian majority country where the majority Christians have run away to the West and now has 59% Muslims due to explosive Muslim growth. Pakistan has far surpassed Lebanon in all respects.
long way to go to become a civilised country,Pakistan is not medieval today but hangs on to it emotionally
Unable to understand as to why none of my comments in the Opinion section seem to be getting through.
Standing ovation from the Indians, please! That is if they are done shouting down those writers who drop even a hint of criticism aimed at their country.
Humility is one of many things they do not teach at Kakul. It is eerie to think that what happened in 1999 can easily repeat itself today 14 years later, for only one reason: incorrigibility of the army high command.
Shafi Sahib is of course right. The commando lied to the nation and the world claiming it was the mujahidin not the army. The politician claimed innocence. He lied many times too. Otherwise, how come in 1999, a significant interval before the discovery of the operation by the Indians, he claimed in Parliament that "India cannot hold on to Kashmir for more than six months"? It was reporte in the Asian Age at that time. Indian intelligence were guilty of not picking up on that.
They both (PM & COAS) lie about the number of dead to suit their motives exaggerating and supressing actual counts.. Now the general is claiming a military victory turned into diplomatic defeat. To learn some facts readers read "Operation Safed Sagar", an in depth study of the Indian Air Force Operation by Benjamin S Lambeth of RAND. He highlights the lack of sync between the Indian army and the air force at the initial stages, but once they synergised, the commando knew there is no hope. That was the massive miscalculation by the commando. The politician developed cold feet and was discovered shivering in the US. The commando of course hijacked the nation.
Kamran Shafi, Yes we will get there soon-sure.But only after massive clean-up.Most of the mosques are built illgaly ignoring all planing reuirments and on public places often reserved for parks and other public uses.Generals divided politicians and made their fortune.And now general vs general let us see where it ends.They have to be exposed by themselves before state bring them to justice.Equally responsible are clerics who are not leting this nation to take a breath of peace. They have poluted the conscience of the nation.They have to go if we want to enjoy religious harmoney as you have seen in Beirut.Pakistan can sure do it but only by politicians. Excelant article regards.
Welcome back Sir. You were missed when you did not write for a cople of weeks.
More than what the General Aziz said, it is Musharraf's response that is surprising. According to him, army had won and it was only political pussilinamity that resulted in a loss. Who is he fooling? Ofcourse the peaks were occupied when they had been deserted for winter. But the response simply was beyond what was expected and forced Pakistan to seek a unilateral ceasefire.
Just a reality keep it up
With reference to your travelogue, what did you have for dinner in Beirut?
Superb analysis! But sadly you are talking to people who does not believe in hearing the truth. Just coming from a party where I met a senior naval admiral & while talking about India PK relations. His comments were "Unlike in 65 & 71 now PK Navy is very well equiped & can PUNCH India on its face". We might punch them first but after that what will happen? Cuckoo world in which they are living!
Kamran, it is so pleasant to read you again after a short interval. One has been missing your incisive and crisp analysis over the past two weeks.
" We’ll get there one day; yes, we will."..........may your tribe grow...and Pakistan will get there. with regards to you from India
Musharraf almost created a catastrophe for which he truly deserved a Court Martial. Instead he deposed the elected PM with considerably help from a Judiciary that has an unmatched record in perfidy and overthrowing democratically elected governments when commanded by the military.These games of brinkmanship have earned the country the title of "International Migraine". Subsequently the attack on Indian Parliament(2001) and Mumbai(2008) were also masterminded by the same coterie. This is a sovereign country we are talking about in the 21st century.
Musshraf has started soundfing deranged now.What an attrocious way of justyfying the sacrifying of your jawans. Clinton called nawaz and told him to withdraw and if the indian army went on war, US will stop all supplies and aid to pakistan, causing it to collapse. That is why the cheat of a mushraf withdrew. No wonder, boxers and commandos are dim-wits!
Brilliant. As always !
We’ll get there one day . On the contrary, I believe you have far surpassed them. . In the 1940s when France gave independence to Lebanon, it was a Christian majority nation. Over the years, due to Syrian interference and the deteriorating security situation including Hezbollah and rocket attacks on Israel, majority of the Christians scampered away to the West. This coupled with the fact that the Muslim population has risen dramatically means that Lebanon is now 59% Muslim.
The most delusional part was when Mushy tried to justify Pakistani casualties in the conflict, saying that "Pakistan lost only 270 men against India’s 1,600 soldiers". He appears to have forgotten the 4000-odd dead "freedom-fighters" whose bodies he refused to accept.
Fair shot at the elections really ? do you really want to leave Pakistan in hands of publicly elected candidates ? Since you are a learned man i would assume that you know how and what type of politics is done in Pakistan. When everything is done and dusted post your suggestion of letting Pakistan in hands of the corrupt lot, please dont cry Wolf after that
Its Friday afternoon and reading this I can hear aazan after aazan............coincidence. Let us hope the good CEC has the strength to do what is necessary with the system, that is so rigged that come what may only the corrupt and the bad, get elected. As for the men in uniform, it is disheartening but what can one say but that you are right.