Jewellery trends: All that glitters...

Top jewellery designers talk about this season’s hottest trends.

KARACHI:

For any bride, the grandiose ensemble is evidently the most critical aspect of her wedding. However, what’s equally important though is what jewellery to wear on the big day. With the shaadi season already knocking at our doors, The Express Tribune decided to take stock of what leading jewellery designers in the country have to say about the jewellery designs to don this season. Here’s a guide to staying in trend even with the soaring gold prices.

Kiran Aman

“Beaten and textured gold has been my signature but I have now divided my collections into three lines. The pure beaten gold pieces fall under the ‘So KFJ’ line, while ‘Kino’ is my new initiative where I use natural fibres such as wood shavings, silver and semi-precious stones to create pieces. I don’t believe in creating sets but I do make separate pieces for brides who dare to be different,” says the jewellery designer.

Aman does not design jewellery for a clientele and makes whatever she thinks is fit for her brand’s image. “I didn’t even check international trends when I did fashion week. All my work is based around my own emotions and what I am feeling at a particular point in time. When I made my collection centred on umbrellas and masks, I didn’t expect people to want to wear them, but they did. I think you have to open people’s minds with your designs.”

For Aman, it’s all about showcasing facets of a woman’s personality, which is why her upcoming Kino line will be all about experimentation and risks. “I have reserved my Kino line for the ramp. Kino means dramatic, hence, it is fitting for the ramp.”

Sherezad Rahimtoola

“The colour gold is in. I’m doing gold finish now instead of my signature white diamonds on white gold look. I have also started doing enamelling that gives a rather rich look. Traditional meena kaari, which is also a form of enamelling, is back in vogue,” says Sherezad, who has started working with polki as well. “People are reverting to polki sets so what I have done is created sets that can be worn both ways; with polki on one side and intricate meena kaari on the other side. It’s all about ganga jamna,” she says.

The jewellery designer says that because the gold prices have hiked up, people prefer wearing small locket sets than one large set and are opting for statement pieces for more routing wear; either a ring, necklace or a cuff bracelet. “Since my weakness has always been stones, most of my pieces are centred on a jewel or a stone. I can never find the same piece of rock again, which automatically makes my creations exclusive and unique. Stones that have caught my fancy these days are tanzanite, mother of pearl, ruby, south sea pearls and basra pearls.”

Shafaq Habib

“Decades ago, I became unsatisfied with Indian and Pakistani jewellery. But while I was living and working in New York, I came across a wide selection of abstract and colourful Japanese pearls that inspired me to create a more practical style of jewellery,” says Habib.

As a result, the designer started taking South Asian jewellery styles and fusing them with the requirements of the New York clientele. “As I researched, I started to familiarise myself with the many types of jewellery stones, pearls and metals being used and appreciated the world over. I revived the age old techniques of kundan-making, introduced several precious and semi-precious stones and brought Japanese baroque pearls in a variety of shapes forms and colours.”

Sherezad Rahimtoola

“The colour gold is in. I’m doing gold finish now instead of my signature white diamonds on white gold look. I have also started doing enamelling that gives a rather rich look. Traditional meena kaari, which is also a form of enamelling, is back in vogue,” says Sherezad, who has started working with polki as well. “People are reverting to polki sets so what I have done is created sets that can be worn both ways; with polki on one side and intricate meena kaari on the other side. It’s all about ganga jamna,” she says.

The jewellery designer says that because the gold prices have hiked up, people prefer wearing small locket sets than one large set and are opting for statement pieces for more routing wear; either a ring, necklace or a cuff bracelet. “Since my weakness has always been stones, most of my pieces are centred on a jewel or a stone. I can never find the same piece of rock again, which automatically makes my creations exclusive and unique. Stones that have caught my fancy these days are tanzanite, mother of pearl, ruby, south sea pearls and basra pearls.”

Pieces worth investing in

If you are in the mood to experiment with your jewellery this season take a look at Taalif’s new collection at Labels, Lahore. Taaliif (a Persian word which means bringing together) is a collection of unique jewellery pieces inspired by Moroccan, English and Italian art. Based in Dubai, the brand is experimenting with fun designs that represent the merger of Kenneth J Lane and Cartier. Taaliif pieces are neither conventionally beautiful nor fussy. There are four different lines within the collection available at Labels.  These include: Sehl-e-Mumtinaa (unattainably simple): a compelling collection of rings with a signature central stone. Wisaal (to attain), which explores both the intellectual as well as the aesthetic side of pearls. Raftaar (speed): the signature Italian tiger has been re-interpreted in Swarovski and semi-precious stones in this glamorously bold collection. Marrakech: these exquisite rings all have calligraphic designs with the name of Allah carved in the centre.

Personal favourite: Raftaar — the Italian tiger is worth housing and adorning on your finger.

(With additional reporting by Momina Sibtain)

Published in The Express Tribune, June 5^th, 2012.