Original 'Birkin' bag revealed in Tokyo

Hermes-designed item auctioned at record €8.6 million

TOKYO:

The original prototype of the iconic Birkin bag, created in 1984 for actress and singer Jane Birkin, was publicly unveiled in Tokyo on Wednesday by Japanese luxury reseller Valuence Japan, which acquired the item for a record €8.6 million (approximately US $10 million) at a recent auction in Paris.

The bag's origins trace back to a fortuitous 1984 flight, during which Jane Birkin happened to be seated next to then-Hermes executive Jean-Louis Dumas. Frustrated by her lack of a handbag suited for both mothering and style, she described her predicament, and Dumas sketched a new design on the spot — the prototype that would become the Birkin bag. The design notably included space for a baby bottle and other practical features.

The purchase by Valuence is significant in several respects. Shinsuke Sakimoto, CEO of the company, said the acquisition reflects the firm's belief that luxury items should be evaluated more by their "stories" and philosophies than simply by price. He emphasised that the bag will not be resold, but rather preserved and displayed in museums or similar venues.

The auction sale itself set a new high-mark for handbags, transforming the prototype into one of the most expensive fashion accessories ever sold. Previous estimates for such items had ranged far lower.

This event also serves as a reminder of the Birkin bag's broader cultural and economic significance. Introduced by Hermès in the mid-1980s and named after Birkin, the bag has become not just a handbag but a status symbol — embodying craftsmanship, scarcity and luxury. For Jane Birkin herself, the bag has a charity-linked history: she auctioned the prototype in 1994 to raise funds for French AIDS charity Sidaction.

By unveiling the original in Tokyo, Valuence is placing the item at the intersection of fashion history, investment artefact and cultural artefact. Its decision to exhibit rather than resell suggests a shift in how luxury objects of this calibre are treated — less as personal indulgence, more as public heritage.

The revelation of this landmark purchase and exhibition invites broader reflection on the evolving meaning of luxury: when a handbag becomes a symbol of design innovation, cultural legacy and investment value, its story eclipses its function.