Paris brings change, star power

Louis Vuitton's serenity and Saint Laurent's bold note begin Fashion Week

PARIS:

Paris Fashion Week began its Spring-Summer 2026 women's wear showcase with a mix of grandeur, experimentation and unexpected serenity, underlining the momentous changes underway at the world's top luxury houses.

The week opened with a blockbuster show from Saint Laurent on Monday, framed against the dramatic backdrop of the Eiffel Tower. By Tuesday, Louis Vuitton had taken the spotlight, transforming the former apartments of Queen Anne of Austria in the Louvre into an airy catwalk filled with flouncy skirts, sculptural ruffles and oversized collars.

The setting, punctuated by soft jazz and narration by Cate Blanchett, provided an intimate contrast to the high theatrics that fashion lovers have come to expect. For Louis Vuitton, long-time creative director Nicolas Ghesquiere presented what he described as an atmosphere of home and comfort.

"The atmosphere I wanted to share was really that serenity one feels when in the comfort of one's home," he told reporters. His collection offered softer, feminine silhouettes and highlighted label staples such as the 'Speedy' bag and colourful 'pochettes'.

Models also donned turban-style headpieces with flowing tunics, reinforcing a sense of lightness and ease. Hollywood A-listers Emma Stone and Zendaya lent star power from the front row, a reminder that fashion week remains as much about spectacle as it is about clothes.

The previous day, Saint Laurent had opened the week with a powerful statement at Place du Trocadero. Creative director Anthony Vaccarello used black leather jackets and bold fabrics to explore fashion as a tool of dialogue in divided times.

"At a time when dialogue is fading, style becomes a form of discourse — not one that imposes but one that connects and adds nuance," he wrote in his show notes. Vaccarello's words echoed the industry's broader reckoning with its role in society. Around the world, politics may be polarising, but Paris Fashion Week suggested that fashion could still serve as a bridge.

French designer Victor Weinsanto also made waves on opening day, sending drag queen Nicky Doll onto the runway in a corset-heavy collection inspired by Versailles. Later, Belgian newcomer Julie Kegels staged her debut in an upscale Parisian apartment, with Spanish singer Rosalia in the front row, signalling the week's embrace of fresh talent alongside global celebrities.

This edition of Paris Fashion Week stands out for the sheer number of new creative directors at major labels. Roughly 10 houses — including Chanel, Balenciaga, Dior, Loewe and Jean Paul Gaultier — are unveiling debut collections.

For an industry long dominated by established names, the shake-up signals a generational shift. Much of the buzz centres on Franco-Belgian designer Matthieu Blazy's upcoming debut at Chanel, set for October 6.

Blazy, poached from Bottega Veneta, inherits one of fashion's most daunting legacies following the death of Karl Lagerfeld in 2019. Meanwhile, Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson will present his first women's line for Dior on October 1, after a strong reception to his men's wear collection earlier this year.

Balenciaga also takes a new direction under Pierpaolo Piccioli, who steps in after Demna's departure to Gucci. Further transitions loom, with Fendi announcing a shift of veteran Silvia Venturini Fendi to an honorary role.

Pierre Groppo, fashion editor of Vanity Fair France, summed up the moment: "We're opening a new chapter, not so much for Fashion Week itself, but for what fashion will be over the next 10 years."

Industry in transition

The changes at the top come during a challenging period for luxury houses. Demand in China has slowed, US tariffs weigh on exports, and uncertainty surrounds the global economy. The flurry of fresh leadership is seen not just as an artistic renewal but also a strategic attempt to rekindle excitement among buyers.

As shows by Dries Van Noten, Courreges and Stella McCartney added variety to Tuesday's schedule, industry watchers acknowledged that the week's significance lies as much in boardroom shifts as in runway looks.

Fashion weeks in Milan and Paris have traditionally shaped global trends, and this season is being viewed as a pivot point. The Paris shows follow a historic week in Milan, marked by tributes to Giorgio Armani, who died earlier in September at the age of 91.

Originally planned as a 50th anniversary celebration of Armani's house, the event became a poignant farewell. Cate Blanchett, Glenn Close and Richard Gere were among those present, underlining the designer's enduring influence.

The emotional closure in Italy now passes the torch to Paris, where names like Haider Ackermann for Tom Ford, Glenn Martens for Maison Margiela and Sarah Burton for Givenchy will present their sophomore collections, often regarded as the true test of direction.

Beyond the runways, the business side of fashion also made headlines. On Tuesday, the European Commission cleared Prada's €1.25 billion purchase of Versace, ending speculation over whether the acquisition would raise competition concerns.

The move, which follows Donatella Versace's departure after nearly three decades at the creative helm, is expected to close later this year. Prada, which also owns the youthful Miu Miu line, insisted the deal would not alter competitive balance in the market.