Talented beaders long for recognition

Patrons claim artists are both undervalued and underpaid

ISLAMABAD:

While craftspeople in most cultural capitals are patronised for exhibiting the nation’s traditions to the world through their artwork, Islamabad’s artisan community awaits both recognition and remuneration for their renowned, yet poorly valued, beadwork.

Dating back almost 5,000 years to the Indus and Harappan civilizations, beadwork had historically held symbolic significance for the subcontinent’s natives during the colonial period, allowing them to preserve their cultural distinctness in face of imperial homogenization.

In modern day Pakistan however, the craft has lost its charm and value, discouraging the artisans, who resent neither receiving the monetary compensation nor the verbal appraise that their delicately crafted pieces of art deserve.

According to Sadaf Ahmed, a famous handicraft artist, beadwork is highly laborious due to its high reliance on the artisan’s ability to create an eye-catching end product, which in turn depends on the quick availability of a wide variety of vibrant and colourful beads and embellishments.

“I first prepare a sketch of the desired item using threads, and then carefully add beads, one by one onto it. The same complex process is used to weave lengthy verses of the Holy Quran, foreign flags, flowers, and enlarged portraits of famous personalities,” explained Sadaf, who learnt the skill watching her father, Malik Nisar Ahmed, who too had been involved in the craft for some 40 years.

“Even though some people do occasionally compliment us on our creativity, no one is willing to pay us enough money for us to excel in this field,” she added.

Sympathising with the economic constraints faced by artisans in the country, Asma Butt, an art director shared, “it is quite disappointing to acknowledge the fact that artists in our country are highly underpaid.”

Asma’s observation was reaffirmed by a survey carried out by The Express Tribune which found that most artisans involved in beadwork earn only Rs 2,000 to Rs 5,000 per piece and face high costs of production due to the prevalent inflation and import duties being levied against the beads, which are imported from China and Japan.

Concurring with Asma, Fatima Zulfiqar, a student of Fine Arts at the Pakistan National Council of Arts, protested, “the skilled craftspeople in our country are suffering since they are not compensated for their talent. The government must devise ways to promote and facilitate our artists.”

When asked if the government had played any role in advancing the work of artisans, the Punjab Arts Council Director, Waqar Ahmed replied: “Our talented citizens are assets for the entire nation and the government has provided platforms for them to showcase their talents.” However, Waqar shied away from stating exactly which platforms had been provided.

Nevertheless, while some opportunities to present and sell their work do exist for artisans locally, many artisans still aspire for their artwork to reach the international market.

“There is great demand for our handicrafts in Saudi Arabia,” said Sadaf, who dreams of selling her pieces in the country one day. “However, a lot of investment is needed to take local items to the foreign markets,” she regretted.

While Sadaf may not be able to sell in Saudi Arabia anytime soon, her passion to expand her craft across borders has encouraged art enthusiasts like Preena Sarfaraz, into pursuing beadwork. “Sadaf’s bead art is fascinating and has inspired me to learn the craft myself,” she informed.

When asked about the availability of training centres for aspiring bead artisans like Preena, Khalid Javed, former Director General of Lok Virsa, and Ayub Jamali, Director General of the Pakistan National Council of Arts, both stated: “Our facilities, apart from exhibiting the works of established artisans, also provide training and skill advancement opportunities to future artists.”

Published in The Express Tribune, April 25^th, 2023.