The relentless charm of our True North

The last two weeks or so were spent exploring the cities and scenic valleys of our Northern Areas (NAs) in the company of family and friends. It was one of the many escapades towards our True North; and it was delightful to see how much had changed during the interregnum. Thanks to the ingenuity and industry of our private sector. This piece would piece together some observations.

The approach to the NAs through the Karakoram Highway (KKH) remains tedious and time consuming. The passage through the Babusar Pass is popular with the travellers as it is short and with a relatively acceptable road quality. The Hazara Motorway (presently open up to Thakot) is a pleasant drive. After exiting at Mansehra, the Babusar approach passes through the towns of Balakot, Kaghan and Naran, etc.

The road beyond the Babusar Pass at some 13,700 feet is of good quality but if water drainage is not managed — as is mostly the case — the road degradation would be quick. The roads all over, even the KKH up to Khunjerab Pass, lacked the mandatory road-side drainage channels or these were found clogged. Water from the snow packed over the mountains was seen flowing on the roads generally increasing in volume as the day wore on.

The 50 or so kilometers linking the town of Chilas to the better quality KKH at Raikot Bridge and beyond are simply nerve-wracking, needing immediate attention. At some points, road alignment on the opposite side of a river seemed more appropriate being freer from slide blockages. This might have been considered and dropped at the time of road construction due to budgetary constraints, etc.

Repair work was patchy, slow and lacked quality. At most places, where mountain slides had previously blocked the roads, one felt the need for simple leveling and compaction. As a thumb rule, all roads branching off the main arteries into the valleys need a four-by-four vehicle. Choices in local hire are plenty. Self-driving needs awareness of the mountain courtesy that the locals display. The undue haste, generally seen in our cities is mostly fatal.

Naran, as a convenient middle point, has become a bustling town with all sorts of hotels, eateries and shopping places, etc. From camping gear to winterised clothing in all categories to locally published maps with better accuracy, the tourist needs are well catered for. Hoteliers seemed conscious of the tourist choices and displayed reasonable — and improvable — standards of cleanliness and hygiene. Other towns left similar impressions. The government, in collaborations with the private sector and NGOs, can organise training of hoteliers to further jack-up standards to international levels.

NAs remain our hidden gold mine and the day is not far when tourism here — local or international — would be bursting at the seams. One was surprised at the density of group travel from the down country, even as the weather was cooling down and schools had re-opened. Local tour operators had a packed August after the corona-related restrictions were eased. One was told of a seven kilometre-long vehicles back-up in August at one road maintenance site. Locals were expecting another spike when nature lovers flock to see the fall colours.

True to The Wall Street Journal dictum, “man is an economic animal,” human ingenuity and the Pakistani can-do spirit is on display everywhere. With Hunza tunnels now linking both sides of the Attabad Lake between Sust and Karimabad, the lake itself has become a favourite spot for water sports and boating. The Khunjerab National Park remains as mesmerising as ever.

For the guidance of visitors, interestingly, Gilgit-Baltistan Scouts (GBS)-had published relevant literature, available on tourist information centres. For guidance and re-assurance, G-B Tourism Police in smart uniforms was visible on all important places.

Tourism, fruit (fresh and dry), potato crop and gemstones remain the mainstay of local economy brining in a level of prosperity on display. The mountains also contain exploitable reserves of precious minerals and the G-B government is granting licenses for survey and extraction. If properly regulated and explored, this sector can be a real game changer for the national economy. Illegal ruby-mining was witnessed, though. Gemstones remains a big attraction for ladies in Gilgit and other areas. The enticement of Chinese merchandise has comparatively dampened, due to corona-imposed border restrictions.

The Hunza Valley and most northern and north-western parts of G-B are inhabited by the Ismaili brethren, the followers of the Agha Khan. They represent a microcosm of modernity in remote Pakistan. It was pleasing to see polite and well-mannered young men with stylish — mostly western — dresses. An egalitarian womenfolk in fashionable attire complemented. Girls in jeans, tending to cattle and talking on cell phones was a common sight. Cultural sophistication and mild mannerism of this microcosm remains impressive.

The Agha Khan Rural Support Programme (AKRSP) projects in community welfare, women empowerment, water drainage, drinking water, irrigation, health and education sectors, etc., were found in all areas, irrespective of religion and sect. The AKRSP’s inspiring vision has lifted many people out of poverty in these remote areas.

Education, especially women’s education remains a top priority for the locals. In one district at least, Ghizr… female literacy far outpaces male literacy. All schools were following SOPs in letter and spirit with proper spacing, masks and operation in shifts.

Special Communication Organization (SCO) staffed and led by the Pakistan Army Corps of Signals provides communication in the entire NAs and AJK. SCO ensures fiber optic link with China, besides cell phone (4G), internet, data, and phone connectivity at the local level. The entire area is covered with its detachments deployed even in the remotest corners. The army-led SCO is now establishing the first ever technology park in Gilgit.

Campaigning for local elections (G-B Assembly) is in full swing with spirited rallies in towns and on roadsides. The locals were generally supportive in discussions about G-B becoming our fifth province. Some were concerned about losing subsidies and other concessions. The government should dispel these fears, continue with subsidies, etc., and take this long-awaited decision as soon as possible.

G-B without a military footprint, tourism, trade with China, AKRSP and other NGOs would be a different story. High-speed access to its towns and valleys and mineral exploitation, possibly under CPEC, would revolutionise it and revolutionise Pakistan. Let’s keep the focus.

Published in The Express Tribune, October 8^th, 2020.

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