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Set slightly away from the DHA bustle, Miyako features a colossal and sophisticated menu with dishes ranging from hand-rolled sushi to Beef ala Sichuan, which isnāt really Japanese at all, but they call themselves Pan-Asian so we canāt argue. But thatās the prowling issue surrounding Pakistanās restaurants ā they donāt have one out-and-out focus. Hoping to excel at a gang of cuisines all at once is a recipe for food cataclysm. Find your grub emphasis and then nail it. Maybe thatās where Miyako takes a hit.
Bare bones in its dĆ©cor, with particle wood making up the ceiling and partially uncovered rock-tile designs on the walls, the joint radiates a comfy vibe. A lofty metal rack comprising sham condiments right in the heart of the space is something the management needs to reconsider ā because the tables are nestled so close together, itās hard to get in and out of chairs without infuriating the foodie on the next table. It can get stuffy when the place begins to pack and privacy is certainly limited. If youāre going on a date or a meeting that demands intense talk, Iād suggest you make a reservation on their top floor.

Coming back to foodstuff, Miyakoās menu is ambitious for a small place, with not only an extensive list of sushi rolls, sashimi and Teppanyaki Ā but also soups, salads, crispy honey chicken, several incarnations of teriyaki etc., with Bundt cake and brownie for dessert.

Dismally for me, I wasnāt even close to awestruck by the sushi. I understand youāre trying to Americanise your sushi ā a horde of restaurants Iāve basked at in New York, Denver or even Johannesburg for that matter, do the same and thatās fine ā but donāt internationalise it so much that you lose the sense of Japanese or in this case, Pan-Asian knack youāre trying to triumph. Iām sorry Miyako but chicken sushi and Mexican Maki are an epic fail ā they just donāt work! And that sweet pink ginger served alongside tasted more of food colouring than the sharp palate cleanser itās supposed to be and what Iām used to.

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Not everything was derisory though. The California and crispy rolls were very much on point ā but again thatās not authentic sushi. There's a lot of avocado and cream cheese involved in the assortment of rolls they offer, so at least you know the chef is not skimping on our need for delish fat. It's a crowd-pleasing list for Karachiites Iād assume, since there are mayo-heavy sauces everywhere, on and off the sushi! As for me, when chefs put mayo sauces and a bunch of garnishes on the sushi, it's one of the things I really don't appreciate. The focus shouldn't be the sauces. Sushi fanatics will know precisely what I mean!

As for the rest of the āPan Asianā delights, they were okayish. The Thai sweet chilli basil beef was more chilli than it was sweet and the piquancy overpowered the taste of the meat ā and resultantly, couldnāt deliver that heavy-duty Thai punch we were aching for. Thai cuisine, Pakistani restaurateurs need to comprehend, encompasses earthy, intricate flavours soldered together with specialised ingredients. The broth or the curry, for instance need to be spiced subtly, but enough to convey that kick ā thatās what sets it apart from Chinese beef Manchurian or a desi Korma.
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But one thing that impressed me was the immaculate service of the staff and managers. They were relentlessly on the floor and more than willing to repair and change any dish that fell below par and thatās a definite plus for any eatery.
Verdict: 2.5/5
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