Food review: La Mamma might not take you to Italy but it does promise a good time out

If you want to enjoy a lavish dinner without piercing holes in your wallet, this place might be your next go-to spot

The question is what makes a decent Italian restaurant in Pakistan? Is it the authenticity, or is it simply how exquisitely the cheese melts in your mouth?

We recently dined at La Mamma, the Italian joint at Movenpick - and must we say, we were surprised. Being nitpicky and fussy with food comes innately to food critics.



Many a times, we feast on cuisines from around the globe in Pakistan and the experience is analogous to my grandfather’s hearing: it failed slowly you see. It started out reassuringly, full of progressive daylight and possibility, but gradually that early promise gave way to uncertainties and suspicions, rutted frowns and in due course, hyper irascibility and grouchiness.

PHOTO: DANISH ANIS

In all honesty, that’s precisely how I arbitrated La Mamma but man, did it grow on us! When we entered the eatery, we were saluted by vibes that squealed rustic faux-peasant Italian food – courtesy of the unpretentious interior that swanked unsightly table cloths and distasteful chairs, not to forget the tacky wall mural that blinded Sumair and I for a second.

Instantly, our dreams of expecting the sort of Tuscan entrées that dazzle covers of Bon Apetit, plated on dainty plates were rumpled – and Danish saw it all over our faces and controlled/managed our brewing negativity. And then we looked at the menu!



On Chef Tanveer Hussain’s recommendation, we promptly ordered the Filetto Di Manzo or the beef tenderloin steak, La Mamma special pizza, Fettuccini Alfredo – and of course for appetisers, we did our usual - beef Carpaccio and smoked salmon.

We were served complimentary parmesan bread which didn’t quite impress due to its chunkiness – and before I could churn out my two cents on that, our appetisers arrived – and oh so glad they did. The smoked salmon was an instantaneous knockout.

PHOTO: DANISH ANIS

From the subtle sharpness of the pulverised cheese to the beautiful texture of the flushed pink delicacy, all three of us were blown away! And then the Carpaccio happened. I wish it didn’t but it did!

This is when Danish (who is also a dapper chef himself) intervened and elucidated that the meat just wasn’t cured well and there were details on the simple plate that could’ve made it pop – it needed a dash of acidity, a little more flavour and herbs – that dish was eagerly yearning for herbs.

PHOTO: DANISH ANIS

But the three of us decided to forgive the Carpaccio, considering how lip-smacking the salmon was! The pizza wasn’t a hero for Sumair (who got an unsolicited kick of jalapeno at bite one!) but Danish deconstructed it to us in such a way, we became fans – the crispy brittle crust resting under an unstinting crib of toppings which comprised liberal measures of cheese and veggies – it was delectable to say the least.

PHOTO: DANISH ANIS

If you’re considering going on a family outing of pizza, this should be your spot for sure and the kids would dig it because pizza! Need we say more – and no, this place won’t break your bank! The steak. That steak. Okay so this slab of good-looking meat served to us was undoubtedly the protagonist who doubles as a gutsy superhero - if this were a movie and we were damsels in distress, this guy saved the day!



And the pasta was a close second – from the seamlessly concocted creamy base to the impeccably prepped fettuccini, we were in a daze – the good kind! And yes, we also ordered dessert.

PHOTO: DANISH ANIS

The molten lava cake came but it didn’t conquer. The ratio of milk chocolate was way too overwhelming for our palates. It was more like a milk-chocolate-fused-with-sugar bomb that would do wonders for kids and chocolate enthusiasts who aren’t aware of the wonders of what dark chocolate can incite within the senses!

PHOTO: DANISH ANIS

All being said and done, we loved the food and the ambience overall. It wasn’t too bright, it wasn’t stuffy, the service and staff were welcoming and most importantly, the prices were more than economical!

The fact that this place was cost effective is an underestimation – as in this is Movenpick hotel we’re talking about. We paid less than 1000 bucks on a steak that was arguably one of the best we’ve had in Karachi so you decide!

Rating: 3.7 out of 5 stars

Verdict: If you want to enjoy a lavish dinner (on a tight budget) with family or friends, this place might be your next go-to spot.

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