Chullu Kabab House – an ode to Iran

Even after so many years, the eatery doesn’t fail to deliver


Nisma Chauhan May 06, 2016

KARACHI:


When you walk through the glass doors into the recently-revamped space of your favourite restaurant, you only hope for the taste of your food of choice, a plate of long-grain rice, lightly oiled and flavoured with saffron, tossed with crispy fries, grilled tomato and succulent Afghani Boti served with greasy butter, to remain the same. You expect it to be just the way it was, years ago, marking a niche by offering Iranian cuisine at its best, and that is what Chullu Kabab House delivers.




Last year, the eatery, located in the busy commercial street of Saddar, Karachi, went a step ahead and gave its rustic casual place a touch of the neighbouring country. The restaurant has attempted to provide its customers an authentic feel by investing in Iranian art, painted on walls, and traditional chandeliers — ceiling-mounted fixtures of crystals prisms. What you are going to love about Chullu Kabab House has nothing to do with the atmosphere they have tried to create but instead has to do with the food on the plate.

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As soon as you enter the newly-built room, which caters up to 70 people, you are captured by the aroma of freshly-grilled kebabs, ready to be served, before you let yourself admire the renovation. The place boasts of Iranian elements and a customer-friendly service that the restaurant takes great pride in. Once inside, you are ushered by a waiter to the usual wooden chairs and rectangular tables that can seat up to groups of four to eight, and are quickly handed over the menu.



While there are a few of those ubiquitous dishes present in the menu that are offered by almost any other eatery in the vicinity, from the staple barbecue numbers to the “authentic Chincese”, there’s a good selection of Iranian standards to satisfy your taste buds. To go with the theme, I ordered Iranian special Chullu Kabab Bakhtiary that caters to both chicken and beef lovers; a heavy serving of long-grain rice accompanied with chunks of chicken boti, two seekh kebabs and bite-size tender charred Afghani boti made to scrupulous fairness. Topped with crispy fries, melted butter and grilled veggies — capsicum, onion and tomato — the dish is enriched with flavours and stuffed with pieces of white, greasy fat.

Even their juicy Malai Boti served with tangy tamarind sauce and oily-crispy parathas were well-done yet moist. The cumin seeds and powdered black pepper infused raita served as a side, was neither too runny nor too thick; just the right amount of consistency to seal the deal.

The complementary Fish Crackers served to kill your waiting time, however, lacked the crisp that pops right into your mouth. They were a little musty and missed the sauces they are usually accompanied by. Chullu Kabab House tried to follow the many restaurants around the nook that serve these starters, without realising that they don’t go with the Iranian theme the restaurant wants to fashion. Besides, one the delicious Afghani Botis was undercooked, leaving you struggling with the chewing.

Despite having increased its prices to enhance the experience, the place still deserves frequent visits as it manages to stay true to its standards.

Verdict: If you are looking to indulge in traditional Iranian cuisine then Chullu Kabab House is the place to be



Published in The Express Tribune, May 6th, 2016.

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