Nureyev inspires Galliano

Galliano sent out manliest collection of ongoing Paris fall-winter menswear shows with testosterone-charged homage.

PARIS: John Galliano sent out the manliest collection of the ongoing Paris fall-winter menswear shows on Friday with a testosterone-charged homage to Russian ballet star Rudolf Nureyev.

Creating a Siberian landscape in the Cordeliers Convent on the Left Bank, Galliano weaved a story of strong bearded men in layers of wool, leather and shearling, marching with determination as if through a Siberian snow storm.

They made way for slim, tailored silhouettes drawn from photographs of the impulsive Nureyev, who famously defected from the Soviet Union in June 1961 and mingled with the jetsetters of his time while dazzling audiences with his art.

Galliano himself indulged in rock-star glamour at the close of the show, playfully shaking snowflakes off his extravagant fur hat as he strutted down the runway with a bodyguard at his heels.

Earlier in the day, there was no denying Walter Van Beirendonck’s taste for the avant-garde as the affable bearded Belgian challenged menswear conventions with an art-gallery show.

Winding their way through the seated spectators, the models strode gracefully in jackets, capes and relaxed trousers in a welcome rainbow of pastel colours, complemented with oxfords in turquoise and orange.

The crowd favourite was easily a fully-fringed poncho in a riot of colours over a pair of patchwork trousers. “It’s hot inside, but you feel at ease in it,” said Darouda, the model assigned to wear it.

Published in The Express Tribune, January 24^th, 2011.