Blurred lines: Androgyny and the future of menswear

Androgyny is a word that has been omnipresent in fashion ever since legendary entertainers like Prince, Elton John and the late David Bowie entered the industry.

What is Androgyny?

According to the Merriam Webster definition, androgyny means having traditional male and female roles obscured or reversed. In modern day discourse, it is more popularly stated as ‘Gender Fluid’.



If we look at the runway shows by major brands from Europe and other parts of the world, most menswear shows feature androgynous models dressed up in ways that cannot be categorized as male or female. And although a lot of criticism pours in, especially from virtual messiahs who sit behind their screens to condemn androgyny, for some reason their criticism just keeps fuelling the growth of this trend.

Lady Gaga as Jo Calderone

Ziggy Stardust, the character created by David Bowie in the early 70s, was probably the first time that androgyny was exposed in mainstream media. But Bowie used this controversial character to his advantage and became one of the most known people in the music industry. His popularity and use of androgyny gave birth to a new generation of performers like Lady Gaga, who used his concept to create her own version of an androgynous alter ego, Jo Calderone.

Rizwanullah and Fayezah Ansari in Ali Xeeshan (PFDC Fashion Week)
(source: Fashioncentral.pk)

Even in Pakistan, all our designers have somehow played with androgyny on the runway. We have the likes of eccentric innovators like Fahd Hussayn and Ali Xeeshan, who somehow wow the audiences with their elaborate theatrical shows featuring eclectic works of art. But keeping in mind the Pakistani market, most of these pieces just end up being seen on the runway, or more rarely, at a red carpet event.

Gucci Fall/Winter 2016
(source: voguerunway.com)

Real men wear pink, but a lot of people may argue that this ensemble worn by Jahan-e-Khalid for Nomi Ansari at PFDC L’Oreal Bridal Couture week is borderline androgynous considering how the model drapes a very feminine dupatta over the sherwani.

Rizwanullah and Fayezah Ansari pose for Toni & Guy
(Source: Facebook)

Floral prints, patterns and embellishments used to be taboo for men, but now these features are being incorporated in the menswear industry worldwide. You probably might not find any bright colours in your grandfather’s wardrobe, but then again you might just find a pair of bell-bottoms in your father’s wardrobe.

Jahane-e-Khalid for Nomi Ansari

(source: Fashioncentral.pk)

The only thing that we need to embrace now is diversity. In today’s world there are no ‘stereotypical’ men. Every major company, brand or global campaign nowadays promotes diversity.  Whether androgyny is ‘bad’ for society is  debatable, considering how the world is heading towards it. We have skinny jeans and tight slim-fit suits in western wear, which were items created for women initially.

Jahan-e-Khalid for Ziggi Menswear
(source: Fashioncentral.pk)

These days men are sporting the trend globally. What may have been controversial and nonconformist has now become the new normal. That is how evolution takes place, so the only thing for us to do is keep our minds open to eccentricity.