Music to the ears: Sights and sounds of Shahdara

A convenient spot for picnickers from the twin cities, Shahdara offers more than just a feast for the eyes

ISLAMABAD: There is more to Shahdara than meets the eye. And there is a lot that does meet the eye.

Along a scenic stream flowing right behind the Quaid-e-Azam University, the Shahdara picnic spot is just 10 kilometres north-east of the President House, and thus a popular and convenient destination for many a visitor.

For the residents of Rawalpindi and Islamabad, in particular, the tourist attraction offers welcome respite when the mercury rises. A cool breeze envelopes the dale even during the hottest of summers and the stream’s water is never uninviting for a refreshing dip.

Students, families and friends flock to Shahdara, especially on the weekends, for a quick getaway. While there are small makeshift cafes selling tea, pakoras, French fries and cookies, many prefer to take their own snacks and beverages. Some even prepare meals over a fire or portable gas stove, with the cobblestone steps offering the perfect vantage point. Chairs are also placed right at the centre of the stream for those fancying a rush of cold water through their feet along with their meal.

It’s not just a sight for sore eyes, but also for tired ears. And that’s where 60-year-old Muhammad Mehmood steals the show. An ardent fan of Pakistan’s most popular diva, the late Noor Jehan, Mehmood commutes every morning from Bhara Kahu to Shahdara to entertain onlookers with his silvery serenade accompanied by the driving rhythm of his dhol.

Dressed in a white shalwar kameez and an equally immaculate pakol, Mehmood says he has been visiting Shahdara every day since the past year. Although he is not a trained musician, there is a certain magnetism that draws visitors to his performance as he belts out ‘Dil Deta Hai Ro Ro Duhai Kisi Say Koi Pyaar Na Kare’ and ‘Gaye Gi Dunya Geet Mere’.

Mehmood performs a lot of Punjabi folk songs, much to the delight of picnickers, some of whom break into the Luddi or Jhoomer dance. Those with two left feet prefer to just sing along.

“More than what I earn, what satisfies me is the smile that my music brings to people’s faces,” shares Mehmood, who previously performed at weddings. He says he accepts whatever the people offer him, even if it is a cup of tea or lunch.

Visitors, of course, wouldn’t have it any other way. “The beat of his drum echoing in the foothills of Margalla has a soothing effect on our minds,” says Amir Nisar, a visitor from Rawalpindi. Naseem Khalid, a housewife visiting Shahdara with her family, shares a similar sentiment, “Mehmood adds to our enjoyment.”

Published in The Express Tribune, March 6^th, 2016.