Ali Xeeshan responds to creative concept gone awry

Designer responds to criticism directed at latest bridal shoot featuring models wearing dark-toned make-up

LAHORE:

The year has been tumultuous for the flamboyant Ali Xeeshan. Whether it was for getting banned from the Pakistan Fashion Design Council over assaulting a journalist, or for being recognised by Rihanna’s stylist for his collection at London Fashion Parade, Xeeshan made headlines for both the good and the bad. As he returns to the fore with his signature aesthetics, unveiling the shoot for his ‘Tufaan’ collection, he is once again under the gun for featuring models whose skin tones have been darkened to counter stereotypes. The Express Tribune gets in touch with Xeeshan to know more about his vision behind the concept that has gone awry.

“This is a notion I always wanted to articulate. It’s really close to my heart and I wanted to make sure that it’s done right,” Xeeshan shared while speaking about the photographs, which have been shot by Abdullah Harris. Widely celebrated for his bridal-wear, he shares his train of thought, citing his experiences with brides-to-be. “When girls come to me, I can see there is so much pressure on them from their families, mostly about their appearance,” he says, as he makes himself comfortable on the ornate jamawar sofa in his studio.

The point Xeeshan hoped to put across was that there is no one template for a bride and that people should learn to embrace their own colour, whether it is dark or fair. He shares he opted to portray his models as dusky-skinned because people are afraid of looking dark in our society. But what he has particularly received flak for is his choice of models Amna Babar and Hasnain Lehri, who are naturally fair, when he could have picked duskier faces and perhaps addressed the idea better.



“It’s not about being naturally white. It’s about how they looked in the shoot. The models in the shoot are those we have created through different techniques, such as contouring, altering features and eye colour … it’s not solely about their skin,” he explains. “I could have taken dark models and made them darker, but would that have been a problem too?”

Harris is known for shoots where the models’ skin colour is usually darkened, such as the Élan shoot with model Rabia Butt, but Xeeshan states this idea was primarily his own. “Going this far wasn’t Abdullah’s idea. Whenever I do a shoot with him, I come up with an idea and he takes it further. I wanted Amna to keep dancing and the clothes to make silhouettes and unusual postures that they do while one dances.”

The shoot itself is characteristic of the designer’s personality and aesthetics. Amna can be seen dancing effortlessly and in some shots she is seen cutting a grapefruit and eating it too. These are elements that are unorthodox and least expected of a bride in our culture, since a bride doesn’t usually dance at her own wedding nor is seen eating that casually. “One must not be a decoration piece at one’s own wedding. A bride should be relatable and believable. There was a whole concept behind the shoot,” adds Xeeshan.



While some look forward to his theatrical gimmicks on the ramp for the relief they provide to tired onlookers, others wonder if these tactics take away from his fashion. “Where is the book that says there are rules for fashion? Give me that book and I’ll stop doing it,” he says. “It’s my show, my brand and my story and I know how I’m going to tell it. I always have a philosophy behind what I do. For instance, when I brought Mickey and Minnie to the ramp at PLBW this year, I did so because I don’t like that many brides are treated like cartoons.”

Now over five years into his career, Xeeshan is content to operate out of his Lahore studio and visits his studio in Karachi for appointments. He also hints that he plans on venturing into pret-wear and opening a studio in Dubai. On a side note, he shares his penchant for painting and that he intends on having an exhibition for his art come 2016.

Published in The Express Tribune, December 24^th, 2015.

Like Life & Style on Facebook, follow @ETLifeandStyle on Twitter for the latest in fashion, gossip and entertainment.