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The collection was titled ‘Bater’, one of the most common hunting birds of India and depicted a dark, gothic look through colours and cuts. “Although it’s a common bird, it has a lot of resilience and I wanted to bring out a collection, which is inspired by hunting birds and prey. I wanted to keep it dark, gothic and sexual, but with very fine and intricate embroidery,” Mukherjee told reporters following his show.
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Sabyasachi Mukherjee and Christian Louboutin
“We used a lot of hand embroideries from different parts of India. There was zardozi, Badla ka kaam, fine resham ka kaam, Parsi. So, all sorts of old Indian embroideries interpreted in a modern way with geometric shapes and lines. It was a new kind of expression from us,” added Mukherjee. Through his latest couture line, he attempted to be body-conscious instead of voluminous. “It was basically a modern and eccentric travel line.”
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Louboutin, 52, whose iconic red soles were donned by the models, was mesmerised by Mukherjee’s collection. “It was a very beautiful collection. Of course, I knew the work of Sabyasachi Mukherjee, but I had never attended his show. It was a great experience. I barely attended any Indian fashion show and I loved the set and outfits,” he said.
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The set was transformed into a jungle with sounds of bats and fireflies adding drama to the set. Models were seen donning clothes exuding Mukherjee’s signature aesthetics. The collection boasted a diverse range of outfits, including sari draped over jackets, long maxi dresses and short dresses. The menswear featured offerings, such as sherwanis, Nehru jackets, and bandhgalas paired with shawls.
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One of the striking things about the opening show of AICW was the absence of Bollywood A-listers. When asked about this, Mukherjee said, “Me and Christian Louboutin have a lot of friends in Bollywood. But he has dressed up some of the most beautiful women in the world and I think, for me, he was the showstopper.” The collection was completed in only two months, and the designer said he’s “proud to be a part of a country where anything can happen.”
Published in The Express Tribune, July 31st, 2015.
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