Eclectic mix of sartorial picks

Jewellery designer Zohra Rahman speaks about upcoming collaborations with industry heavyweights Mahgul & Seher Tareen

LAHORE:

Jewellery has maintained a strong presence on fashion runways for seasons now, and since it is evidently here to stay, designers have started seeking expert knowledge for creating it. Locally, jewellery designer Zohra Rahman collaborated with Hassan Sheheryar Yasin (HSY) to create exquisite pieces for Pakistan Loreal Bridal Week (PLBW) 2015. Zohra is a designer known for her unique designs ranging from shoulder-skimming earrings to asymmetrical ones as well as jewellery that draws inspiration from torn pages. This year, Rahman finds herself busy yet again with not one but two interesting designer collaborations; one with Mahgul and the other with couturier Seher Tareen of Studio S.

All three designers are relatively new and unconventional in their individual design aesthetics. The collection that Tareen is collaborating with Rahman for is her luxury prêt line, inspired by the world of ballet, and the paintings of Edgar Degas, Swan Lake and the Russian Tsar. Speaking about her prêt collection, Tareen reveals “its high art meeting practicality.” The colour palette ranges from white, nude and blush pink to shades of bordeaux on materials such as sheer organza, net and silk. “The Degas paintings have been used as digital prints on silk,” adds Tareen.





Of the collaboration with Rahman, she states, “I knew I wanted to collaborate with Zohra because she represents a very modern aesthetic and original artsy work. I wanted ballet to be edgy so I thought Zohra would make the perfect pieces that would complement the clothes.” About how she’ll translate the feminine movement of ballet to edgy clothing, Tareen says, “Even if the fabric colours are pretty, the silhouettes are extremely powerful.” Reflecting on what she has in mind for Tareen’s collection, Zohra shares, “For the first time I’ll be using Swarovski crystals and I want a tough element added because there’s a lot of angst involved in Swan Lake. While I’m taking inspiration from Tareen’s muses I also want it to be more urban and contemporary.”

Since Rahman has been collaborating with designers her own collections have taken a backburner. However, there is no gainsaying that she enjoys the process as she admits, “It forces me to create stuff faster because when I’m working for myself I get really into the concept behind the jewellery. When I collaborate with someone I can start creating without going through that lengthy process.” She adds, “Particularly when designing jewellery for fashion shows one can focus on the visuals and how it will look eventually.”





Interestingly, Mahgul and Rahman were friends before they decided to collaborate with one another. “Because of our relationship, the collaboration was quite natural,” states Mahgul. For her first complete show at the upcoming PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week (PSFW), Mahgul will bring her collection ‘The Indus Society’ on the ramp. Planning three different looks in one showcase, the designer will unveil lounge wear, resort/holiday wear and evening wear. Mahgul mentioned her line takes inspiration from animal skins, translated into heavy embroideries and prints.

About what Rahman is conceptualizing for the fashion show, she says, “According to the three looks, some pieces will be more fluid, while others will be structured and the third will be a mix.” Mahgul has been designing complete looks for her fashion week outings which include shoes, bags and even jewellery. On why she decided to collaborate with Zohra this time, she reveals, “when it’s a certain look I’m after I do it myself but I trust Zohra and her aesthetic to come up with something exciting.” On the same note, Zohra adds, “It makes sense to let the designer focus on the sartorial elements and let jewellery designers explore the possibilities in ways a clothing designer wouldn’t be able to do.”

Mahgul’s PSFW collection will also be the launch and showcase of her new prêt brand called ‘Oro by Mahgul’. Mahgul, her eponymous brand will have luxury formals and bespoke pieces while Oro will be her ready-to-wear line. Stating her collection is still work in progress, she says “My stuff conceptualises itself last minute.” Both of Rahman’s jewellery collaborations will be available at her store after they are showcased.

Published in The Express Tribune, February 1^st,  2016.

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