Portuguese illustrator 'disgusted' by Pakistani copycat

Freelance Portuguese illustrator António Soares took to Facebook to express his 'disgust' for the collection

In Pakistan's highly competitive and ever growing fashion industry, there is a fine line between inspiration and imitation. 

Designer Nida Khurram on May 30 showcased her new summer collection at Fashion Pakistan Lounge in Karachi's Dolmen Mall, in which her pieces incorporated contemporary illustrations and motifs on luxurious Swiss lawn.

Although many took a liking to the designer's digital prints, freelance Portuguese illustrator António Soares took to his Facebook account to express his 'disgust' for the collection which he claimed made use of his illustrations without his permission.



The digital prints collection consisting of two-piece suits, according to the Nida, pay a 'tribute' to the work of illustrators from London, Paris and New York.

Read: Contemporary illustrations on digital prints

"I’ve been really inspired by fashion illustrations of London, Milan and NYC based artists. Their work has motivated me to bring the collection forward through digital prints," she said on the collection launched.

Soares, contrary to the idea of the designer paying a tribute to his illustrations revealed that she did not contact him for permission to use his illustrations.

ANTONIO SOARES ILLUSTRATIONS FOR CHANEL

On the launch of her collection on Monday, Nida was optimistic about her collection becoming a "profitable venture", however, following the claims and remarks by Soares, it may seem that fashion is after all not the designer's forte.

Although the designer has been difficult to reach, she took to her official Facebook page to provide clients with a statement which she has now removed.

"The collection released is a tribute to fashion illustrators which has been quoted that its the beauty of the illustrators of the world who are booming with work. It  doesnt say inspired its a TRIBUTE, the illustrators should be proud that their work is shown to the world and liked and praised, we never owned the illustrations- We would like to make the illustrator himself understand this clearly, its an honour for us to promote illustrators  from around the world. It's not copying its giving. A tribute. And of course we wouldn't hesitate in naming the most looked up illustrators [sic]."

Reactions from the fashion world

Speaking to The Express Tribune prominent members of the fashion industry spoke about the designs and remarks by the Portuguese illustrator.

"We have to collectively stop this practice. If we continue to condone this ruthless copying, it gives a negative image and name to our fashion industry. In the commercial world inspiration is accepted but not a total copy. Using an artists’ work for commercial use without credit or royalty, is just sad. It’s time to question what the fashion industry in Pakistan stands for?," said Maheen Khan of Gulabo.

Huma Adnan of FnkAsia said, "Well, to be honest, every big and small designer is copying and this is a small promotion in the current fashion industry. Had it been a few big names that were doing it, it would have been different story. There are Indian artists who have blatantly copied stuff from the designs of small Pakistani fashion houses. The sad thing is that big names are doing it too but this is not talked about openly. If you go by Pinterest, people in Pakistan are copying left, right and centre from all corners from what Western artists are originally bringing forward. It’s about time that media picks these stories and bring these to public be it a small designer or a big name from the industry."

Menswear designer Munib Nawaz also said "It is happening all over the world. There are legal laws, that one needs to follow. But we generally in Pakistan, don’t pay artists for their work, we take things for granted, big names have taken key inspiration from LV and others too."

He added that "Now, since Pakistan is in the public eye of the world, we hold prominence for bad things, usually. I think we should be backing our people. Media is that parent that must do all to improve the standing of the small children such as designers of this industry, also accept us designers for the wrong things we do. Look, if someone does this in India, it is not taken as an insult but rather as a compliment, we like to pull each other’s leg."