A tale from Siena

A contrade,‘Selva’, has a rhinoceros of the same species that went extinct in geographical territories of Pakistan.

I am in Siena, finishing up my research work with Professor Sandro Lovari at the University of Siena. Siena is a small medieval town in Tuscany, Italy, not far from Florence where stands the masterpiece of Michelangelo, the handsome David. Siena is a Unesco World Heritage site and there are rules that any new construction within the walls of the city must blend in with the medieval architecture.



We recognise Italy by its rich history, art, cuisine and now by its fashion designers. However, this article gives a different dimension to what is the Contrade (singular: contrada) of Siena. I am based in Tartuca contrada, which means the ‘Turtle District’ and there are 16 other such contrade within Siena, each with an animal symbol. The streets of the particular district have unique street lamps with the amulets of that particular animal on the street crossings — indicating the boundaries of a contrada. These districts were historically set up to supply troops when Siena fought to defend itself from Florence between the 13th and 15th century. Later, it was defeated by Florence. Now sentiments keep these contrade alive and celebrations continue within each contrada. These contrade compete with each other in a horse race called Palio which happens twice a year in summers and attracts swarms of tourists. For the purpose of this race, a soil bed is laid on the main square, Piazza del Campo. Professor Lovari says, “At times a third ‘Palio straordinario’, which literally means ‘exceptional’ is organised for a special visitor for example it was organised for the Pope.”

At this time of the year, just ahead of the Palio, different contrade are displaying their power. There are parades where drummers and flag bearers wear special clothes with colours of their contrada, while the supporters usually wear a scarf. I saw parades of oca (geese) and earlier that of onda (wave) symbolised by a dolphin — well, the dolphin looked more like a fish with its scales and a fish-like tail. However, it is quite inspiring to different wildlife species symbolising the contrade. Intriguingly, the species chosen sometimes depict the history of profession of that contrade e.g, the caterpillar contrade’s traditional profession has been trading in silk.

Sienese are proud of their contrade. Professor Lovari, who specialises in animal behaviour and was born in Siena said, “People behave just like wild animals while defending their territories such as contrade. The display of dominance between contrade is just like that between baboons — alpha males leading, followed by sub-adult males and females, they would just walk in a troop, displaying power to threaten their conspecifics”.

There is one contrade called ‘Selva’ which has a rhinoceros standing under an oak tree. Interestingly, this rhinoceros is a one-horned rhinoceros, which is also called the armour-plated rhinoceros and is the same species that became extinct from the geographical territories of Pakistan, the last sighting of which probably dates back to 1556 near the Indus River. The Indus Valley civilisation’s seal bore an image of the same rhinoceros. We have forgotten our lost rhinoceroses but it was good to see that the Italians remember it, albeit in a different context. While a generalisation, the paradox is that a growing Pakistani class that can help in bringing back the rhinoceros to Pakistan or help those facing the fate of such rhinoceros, take more pride in flaunting an Italian designer logo rather than investing in a cause that never goes out of fashion.

Published in The Express Tribune, May 28^th, 2014.

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