Sartorial Word : Summer lawn — what’s worth the investment

Chances are, you’re going to end up buying unstitched lawn this summer — even if you’ve vowed not to. There’s no escaping it. That is, unless you scrunch your eyes tight every time you pass by a lawn billboard, quickly swivel away from spying on those umpteen online catalogues wafting about on Facebook, and basically go and live on an island far, far away for the entire duration of the Pakistani summer. You may be a true-blue prêt enthusiast, but the lure of lawn will probably draw you in when you least expect it, aided by the onslaught of summer all over the country.

Of course, there are plenty of options that are easy to ignore; gaudy concoctions being sold in the name of ‘luxury lawn’. And then there are others that are just beautiful. Here’s a look at our top five selections for the lawns that have just released into the market. Unlike their many contenders, they exude a lightweight sophistication, reflect a definitive designer sensibility and refrain from going over the top with unnecessary bling. Take your pick; some of these designs are extremely hard to resist!

Sana Safinaz

Sana Safinaz have an absolutely ingenious knack for lawn. Every year, they put a new spin on the fabric, inspiring an ardent fervour that induces their many enthusiasts to push, shove and shout until they get their hands on the lawn of their choice. Violence aside, the Sana Safinaz line-up, as always, is gorgeous and ups the game for lawn through different innovations.

Aside from the usual embroideries, the lawn collections diversifies by dabbling into delicate chikankari, worked throughout the front of shirts, and including sequined borders that may be used in the neckline. The prices, flitting about Rs6000, are high but sadly, this is the general rate being charged currently for luxury lawn. Not that it is having much of an effect on hardcore enthusiasts who are still willing to spend whatever it takes to get that suit of their choice.

For the given price, then, the Sana Safinaz designs, unlike many others, are formal enough to be worn as evening wear and absolutely stand out.

Kayseria

We love Kayseria and it’s not just because they recently launched their lawn through a brilliant Basant festival in Lahore. The label has moved on from just being a sister-brand to Bareezé to an entity with its own design aesthetics and fan following. Great fabric and pretty, individualistic prints define Kayseria. Dressed down, these prints can be wielded into easy breezy tunics. Dressed up, and they can floor us like they did at the recent Fashion Pakistan Week  in the form of funky, brightly colored cotton saris and shirts belted at the waist.

The summer lawn line-up this time includes the Basant-inspired, very ethnic ‘A Colour Riot’, the floral, feminine ‘Victorian Romance’ and the quirky ‘Letters of Love’, splattered with multi-colored stamps. Since Kayseria’s line-up includes simple, unembroidered fabric as well as embellished suits, prices begin at Rs1095, going up to Rs5700.

Élan

A designer lawn should essentially translate a designer’s high fashion aesthetics on to high street. Khadijah Shah has done exactly this with her Élan lawn for Hussain Mills, which is probably why she sells so well not just in her home town Lahore, but generally all over the country. The florals, filigrees, geometric patterns, butterflies, birds and delicate colours that have veritably made Khadijah the Sana Safinaz of Lahore, have all been translated down to the economical, accessible lawn market. Add in her penchant for glamorous brand ambassadors — Nargis Fakhri provided that ever-alluring Bollywood quotient last year and this time, local TV drama favorite, Mahirah Khan has stepped in — and you’re craning your neck to look at those Élan billboards dotting the roads.

The lawn is extremely elegant, incorporating jacquard, printed borders and embroidery. At prices ranging from Rs6000 to Rs6800. It’s a luxury product, and it looks good!

Kamal lawn by Zara Shahjahan

In her second year of designing lawn for textile bigwigs So Kamal, Zara Shahjahan has come into her own. While we really don’t remember much of her debut collection from last year, the collection this time has certainly gotten the ball rolling for the brand. A brilliant mix of colors define Kamal lawn for 2014; pastel shirts with brightly colored dupattas, turquoises, mustards and vivid yellows. It’s extremely eye-catching, although Zara’s design signature is not as apparent as one would wish it to be. Then again, lawn is for mass retail while Zara’s quirky, savvy prêt is aimed towards a more niche market.

This is how the cookie crumbles for Zara Shahjahan when she designs lawn.

She focuses on what will appeal at large rather than experiment. It makes sense. What doesn't make sense is the presentation of the lawn at the So Kamal store in Karachi. Lahore, being their hometown, is high on presentation but in Karachi's Dolmen City, the fabric is scrunched together and hung listlessly from hangars. Hardly the right way to market lawns that cost about Rs 5000.

Mahnoush by Arjumand Amin

Mahnoush, in its fifth year now, is still not widely well-known simply because its designer Arjumand Amin is yet to step away from the lawn platform to venture into prêt, fashion weeks and all the hulabaloo that provide designers with media mileage in Pakistan. Yet, this lawn is as luxe as it gets; mixing prints with embroideries that have now become requisite for formal suits. The color palette for Mahnoush is varied, the prints are inspired by floral patterns, Chinese motifs and architectural designs and the embroideries, thankfully, never veer towards gaudy.

A cursory look through Mahnoush’s brochure reveals Arjumand Amin to have quite a talent for designing ready-to-wear too, should she want to delve into it. Her signature is feminine and sophisticated without going overboard. Prices range from Rs5000 to Rs6000.

Published in The Express Tribune, March 17^th, 2014.

Maliha Rehman is a fashion and lifestyle journalist with an obsessive, compulsive need to write. Log on for more fashion updates on Twitter @maliharehman.

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