Avant Couture: A blend of past and present

Three designers showcased collections based on the ‘Mughal’ theme.

KARACHI:

The ‘Avant Couture’ fashion show was organised at the Mohatta Palace to mark the birth of Sky Production House on Saturday evening. The event, with DawnNews as the media partner, was a brightly lit affair and presented the collections of three designers: Ali Xeeshan, Munib Nawaz and Deepak Perwani. Interestingly, all three collections revolved around the Mughal era, primarily comprising of peshwaas, chooridars and sherwaanis for the men’s ensemble and bridals for the women’s collections.

Ali Xeeshan

Fashion designer Ali Xeeshan’s ‘Crimson’ collection consisted of western outfits with extensive embellishments of diamantes and an eastern ensemble embroidered with gota and dabka kaam. What came as a surprise in the eastern collection was when the bare-chested male models walked the ramp clad in what looked like traditional banarsi saris and paired with chooridars. Additionally, the models were also wearing bracelets made of marigold flowers which they later threw on the ramp.

While Xeeshan’s eastern collection for women toyed with gota and dabka kaam on coats, his men’s collection saw sherwanis paired with velvet Jinnah caps which made for an interesting combination. The designer used velvet extensively in the ladies’ long coats as well.

Munib Nawaz

This designer’s collection was inspired not only by royalty but also the opulence in a royal Mughal court. Although the men’s sherwani collection, which had outfits heavily decorated with diamantes on the neckline, was in line with his signature style, one did find slight variations in cuts and styles.

The ramp first saw models carrying black flags — akin to the way the king’s royal guards would hold flags in the court — then the concept moved towards the warrior princes with models walking the ramp carrying swords and shields.

For his men’s range, Nawaz predominantly used black but also toyed with colours such as grey, brown, maroon and off-white.

Deepak Perwani

For his ‘New Romance’ collection, Deepak Perwani brought forward an interesting collection which saw female models wearing pagher (turbans) — a dominant feature till the end of the event.

Female models were seen clad in peshwas and chooridaars in all shades of purple with pagher on their heads. Although sticking to his signature style, Perwani made sure there was a degree of creativity in his men’s jamawar sherwani collection. Meanwhile, for his women’s bridal collection, the use of light golden wire work embroidery brought out the royal feel.

Apart from that, Perwani also made sure he used a variety of colours, primarily red, brown, yellow and maroon.

Published in The Express Tribune, November 01^st, 2011.