Defying time

“There is nothing wrong with growing old, except that it turns you ugly — and kills you,” says Dr Khilji Arif, a practicing dermatologist and surgeon for the last 16 years. Sitting in his well-appointed, private clinic, Dr Khilji claims that vanity is good for a person, “If a woman can shed 10 years off her face with one injection, and transform the way she feels about herself within 10 minutes, cosmetic procedures can’t be all that bad.”

With the availability of a multitude of non-surgical, minimally-invasive procedures in Pakistan, a woman and her doctor can now control how much time she lets show on her face. Treatments like Botox®, Restylane®, laser resurfacing, collagen injections, microdermabrasion, dermabrasion, chemical peels — names one only heard of in Hollywood movies, TV reality shows, or read of in celebrity glossies — are now within easy reach.

Women are the prime target market for these procedures though they are gaining slow acceptance among men. Usually a woman aged 40-50 years will ask for Botox. Fillers are popular in the age group 45-50 years and woman from anywhere between 35-65 years will ask for skin rejuvenation and microdermabrasion. Peels and lasers for the treatment of open pores, uneven skin tone, and pigmentation are not age specific.

Dr Seema Zia who has been working as a dermatologist since 1990, says she’s noticed a marked decrease in the ‘scare factor’ associated with cosmetic procedures. “Laser treatments have gained widespread acceptance; we don’t need to convince patients as much as we did before.” But this acceptance has not yet permeated to treatments like Botox and fillers. “Patients will rarely ask for a filler. But I do get requests for removal of lines, or solutions for a sagging, sallow face.”

The human need of wanting to defy age goes as far back as the Egyptian civilisation when olive leaves were promoted as an anti-aging remedy. But in this I-want-everything-as-quickly-as-possible age, people prefer quick fixes. A facelift, ten to twenty years back would require anesthesia, surgical cuts, months of recovery time and danger of side effects. Today, cosmetic procedures like Botox take such little time that a patient can receive a treatment during her lunch hour with virtually no side effects. The treatment is temporary, so if you don’t like the result, you only have to live with it for the next six months.

It is the decreasing cost and increasing sophistication of these treatments which, coupled with the human desire to preserve beauty, is fuelling the cosmetic procedures industry. According to Dr Khilji, “Women have always wanted to look younger and more beautiful. The difference is that now we have refined, researched products, quicker, non-invasive remedies which are also affordable.”

These age-defying procedures, although not affordable for the masses, are offered in Pakistan at much cheaper costs than abroad. A Botox injection costing approximately $300 — $500 in the US or UK will cost $150 - $175 in Pakistan. A collagen filler costing $300 — $500 in US will cost $200 in Pakistan.

“People who travel abroad will usually be the ones who know about the latest treatments,” Dr Khilji says. “They will know exactly what I am talking about when they come in for a consultation.”

Dr Khilji discloses that he has had women asking for Angelina Jolie lips, “But not everyone can carry those off. I don’t always give patients what they want. A good doctor will know which patient requires what.”

With the media permeating deep into our consciousness and creating lasting images of ideal body and face types, we are constantly bombarded with messages that create psychological pressures to conform to certain standards. Looking good has become paramount; being ultra-slim — or muscular, in the case of men — young and beautiful translates into success which ensures happiness.

“Sadly, the lofty standard — the perfectly groomed, plastic look — although seemingly attainable, is not achievable for everyone,” says Dr Seema. “This can be a hefty blow to people’s self-esteem, especially young girls.”

We are all a bit vain. We care about how we look and feel better when we know we look good. To a degree, this builds our self-esteem and people with higher self-esteems are generally happier, healthier individuals. On the other hand being wrapped up in appearances and obsessively holding onto youth is definitely not healthy. For many, this “new” anti-aging industry feeds on our most deep-seated insecurities. For others, it has opened the doors to new possibilities.

In its truest sense, defying age is not just about cosmetic procedures. It includes therapies for skin care, physical fitness, diets, hormone replacements, vitamins, supplements, herbs and various alternative treatments and holistic approaches towards anti-aging.

If one is inclined towards cosmetic surgery, it is important to find a middle ground. Can the anti-ageing industry become an industry of unhealthy vanity that promises flawed images of perfection and eternal youth? Is it possible to come home with a frozen expression because of too much Botox? Can people get fixated on procedures and never be satisfied with results? Yes, of course, all this is a likely outcome of the anti-ageing industry’s popularity.

Published in The Express  Tribune, July 18^th, 2010.