Martine Rose appointed Balenciaga creative director as Kering seeks fresh ideas

Third leadership shake-up in a month at Kering brands comes amid bruising three-year slowdown

British designer Martine Rose is taking over as creative director at Balenciaga, parent Kering said on Friday, replacing Pierpaolo Piccioli after only 16 months in the role.

Rose's appointment is the third creative leadership shake-up in a month at Kering brands as the French luxury group's CEO, Luca de Meo, tries to restore growth after a bruising three-year slowdown that hit its biggest label Gucci particularly hard.

Rose, 45, is a menswear designer who founded her eponymous label in London in 2007 and later worked at Balenciaga for three years under then creative director Demna, who now leads Gucci. "It is a true privilege to be appointed Creative Director of Balenciaga, a House with an extraordinary heritage and a fearless creative spirit," said Rose.

De Meo said Rose's "connection to the new generation and her instinctive understanding of culture bring a new dimension to the House."

In his 10 years at Balenciaga, Demna transformed the Spanish label, infusing it with a dark, dystopian aesthetic and producing viral streetwear hits, such as chunky, distressed sneakers that fuelled sales.

Piccioli, 59, known for colourful haute couture gowns, tried to take the fashion house in a new direction but the former Valentino creative director's designs received mixed reviews from fashion critics.

Rose was born in Croydon, south London, and her designs are inspired by 1990s rave culture and street style blending high and low fashion, more in line with Kering's aim to attract a new generation of shoppers. Her brand has collaborated with Nike and with cult skate brand Supreme.

In an Instagram post after the announcement, Piccioli thanked his teams, saying: "Life is a journey and each chapter exists to make way for the next." Appointed before de Meo took over and began a complete overhaul of Kering, Piccioli only presented three ready-to-wear collections and one haute couture line in his short time at Balenciaga.

Kering has yet to announce a new creative director at Saint Laurent, its second-biggest brand, to replace Anthony Vaccarello who resigned in October after a decade leading the Parisian fashion label.

Alexander McQueen is also currently without a creative director after Kering said Sean McGirr was stepping down.