When it comes to the world of Wicked, the costumes are just as magical as the story itself. Costume designer Paul Tazewell, known for his meticulous attention to detail, has crafted costumes that not only define the characters of Elphaba and Glinda but also contribute to the world-building of Oz. His journey into the world of Wicked was shaped by a French picture book, which inspired him to create a visual world where every scene is as captivating as the last, down to the smallest details. Tazewell’s designs breathe life into the characters, giving depth and backstory through the clothes they wear.
Tracy Nguyen for The New York Times
Elphaba’s earth-toned, textured wardrobe and Glinda’s glamorous, show-stopping dresses aren’t just about fabric—they’re about storytelling.
From the iconic pink bubble dress, a design requiring 137 pattern pieces and over 200 hours of hand-beading, to the intricately felted details of Elphaba's costume, every stitch is a part of a bigger narrative.
Paul Tazewell brings more than three decades of experience in costume design, with accolades ranging from Broadway hits like Hamilton and In the Heights to his film work on Harriet and West Side Story. But it was his approach to Wicked that allowed him to blend his deep love of detail with a fresh, modern interpretation.
Paul Tazewell has spent more than 30 years designing costumes for theater. Image: Instyle
Tazewell wanted the costumes to speak to a more expansive, reimagined version of the world of Oz, one that still felt grounded in its theatrical history but also distinctly his own. His meticulous work not only pays homage to the original Broadway costumes designed by Susan Hilferty but also reinterprets them to suit the needs of the film, ensuring the costumes fit perfectly into the cinematic version of this beloved tale.
His work with the color palettes of Elphaba’s darker, nature-inspired wardrobe and Glinda’s lighter, airy look shows the evolution of their characters and their relationship. As Elphaba begins to find herself and grow more comfortable with her own power, her clothes shift from restrictive, turn-of-the-century shapes to more modern, freeing silhouettes.
Cynthia Erivo's costumes as Elphaba featured textural elements that were inspired by nature. Image: Universal
Glinda’s journey also plays out through her fashion—her early, overly feminine looks evolve as her bond with Elphaba deepens, resulting in a blending of both characters' visual identities.
The bodice of Glinda's (played by Ariana Grande) bubble gown took 225 hours to hand-bead. Image: Universal
Tazewell’s passion for detail extends beyond just the characters. The costumes, made by an extensive team of artisans, serve as an immersive experience that captures every nuance of Wicked's world. With over 60 costumes per lead character and a total of 140 crew members working across eight different workshops, Tazewell's vision comes to life in ways that are both stunning and intricate.
His ability to weave the characters' emotional arcs into their clothing and his understanding of how the designs would resonate with the audience is what makes his work so remarkable.
The costumes for Madame Morrible (Michelle Yeoh) featured magical iconography. Image: Universal
The film’s approach to Wicked isn’t about just re-creating past designs; it’s about evolving them into something new while retaining the magic that has made the characters so iconic. The challenge of blending the theatrical elements with the expansive world of film is one Tazewell embraces with confidence, bringing his creative vision to the forefront in a way that enhances the storytelling.
Ultimately, Tazewell's work on Wicked is about more than just creating beautiful costumes—it's about ensuring that every detail, from fabric to silhouette, adds to the narrative, bringing each character’s journey to life in the most magical way possible. The world of Oz feels alive through Tazewell’s designs, and it's a testament to his incredible talent and vision that every element of Wicked's costumes adds depth to the story.
The world of Wicked feels vast and boundless. The teamwork between Tazewell, Chu, Crowley, and everyone involved has brought to life something incredibly detailed, imaginative, rich, and exciting—so much so that you’ll wish it could slow down, allowing you to fully appreciate every intricate detail, from the background characters to Jonathan Bailey’s Fiyero boots. Exactly as Tazewell envisioned.
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