Balenciaga brings back controversial designer Demna Gvasalia for Paris Couture Fall 2024

Critics have accused the brand of sexualizing children and normalizing child abuse.

Demna Gvasalia, creative director of Balenciaga, became embroiled in controversy in December 2022 for two ad campaigns.

The most critiqued images featured child models holding teddy bear purses that resembled BDSM gear. Another campaign included court documents related to a child pornography case. Critics accused the brand of sexualizing children and normalizing child abuse. Gvasalia later apologized, calling it an "error of judgment," but the incident tarnished the brand's image.

Controversially, the designer remains in his role as the creative director at Balenciaga and recently unveiled the brand’s newest haute couture collection at the brand’s salon on Avenue George V in Paris on June 26.

The collection showcased typical Demna-isms, highlighting oversized designs like large t-shirts, bulky sports jerseys, loose-fitting flannel button-downs, and sculptural denim jackets, all with a couture twist.

According to the show's notes, Demna drew inspiration from specific subcultures such as streetwear, goth, skater, and metalhead styles.

While some pieces initially appeared to be standard couture interpretations of Demna's Balenciaga ready-to-wear styles, there were metaphorical surprises integrated into the fall 2024 haute couture collection.

The brand stated that one garment was crafted in just half an hour and could be dismantled in half a minute. The collection also incorporated unexpected materials like recycled plastic bags, aluminum foil, and faux fur made using traditional fur techniques, requiring 7.5 weeks to create a dress.

Velvet with a flocked finish was used in a dress resembling a jewelry display case, complemented by a vintage Cristóbal Balenciaga necklace from 1960. Balenciaga's exploration of current trends included a couture coat mimicking fur with synthetic hair, intricately shaped and dyed by hairstylist Gary Gill over approximately two-and-a-half months.

Amidst a week dominated by conventionally glamorous dresses and heavily embellished gowns, Balenciaga's couture collections provided notable contrasts.

Models showcased headpieces resembling T-shirts draped over pillows alongside others donning traditional feathered couture hats. The collection also featured T-shirts hand-draped and preserved in resin in collaboration with artist Ni Hao, and carbon fiber bodices created with artist Alastair Gibson. Visually striking butterfly headpieces inspired by artist Yumi Okita added to the collection's mix