For over a decade, my association with Hyderabad has been wholly woven into the fabric of my memories. As part of my every day routine, I drive past Bombay Bakery, casually glancing at and being intrigued by the long queues outside the bakery, regardless of the any kind of extreme weather conditions. Even in the boiling heat of May and June, with temperatures soaring to around 45.5°C, or during the wintry days when the mercury floats down to 20°C, the customer base stays intact.
Bombay Bakery, with its unvarying popularity, transcends geographical boundaries, generating an inherent curiosity for its renowned cakes that draws people from all walks of life.
This unyielding loyalty, fuelled by something more profound than just the love of cakes, stirred a latent desire within me to meet with these dedicated patrons and unravel their stories, and to interpret the driving force behind their persistence. So to connect with the heartbeat of the bakery, I decided to step beyond the casual observer's role and indulge in the vibrant atmosphere of Bombay Bakery.
Nestled in the soulful street of Civil Lines Saddar, in Hyderabad, an elegant red-brick bungalow preserves a treasure trove of flavours that have endured the test of time. According an employee in 1911, Shri Pahlaj Rai Thadani, a Sindhi-Hindu completed the groundwork of Bombay Bakery in the bustling area of Saddar. It nimbly relocated to its present haven in 1922, and presently after passing through three generations, the fourth generation of the Thadani family runs the bakery’s day-to-day operations, ensuring its ongoing success and appealing to all who explore the impeccable fusion of quality and taste.
Imagine a widespread one-and-a-quarter-acre mansion where the aroma of freshly-baked cakes hovers in the air. This establishment is not merely a bakery, it is an ancestral heritage, a testimonial to unwavering dedication and enthusiasm.
Revelling in the eternal charm of Bombay Bakery, Samreen Shah shared nostalgically that she has lived in Saddar near Bombay Bakery and loves the taste of their cakes since her childhood. Back then, she and her siblings frequented the bakery regularly. “Even after 30 years, I find it heartening to see that the building and the taste remain unchanged,” says Shah. “The prices are reasonable and good for value. I come here at least three times a month to indulge in their delicious cakes or biscuits.”
Aisha Mir, an engineering student at MUET, Khairpur, is originally from Hyderabad and has been buying cakes since her first year in university for friends and teachers. “Everyone insists on Bombay Bakery cakes, and I end up buying more for others than myself," she says.
Initially, Bombay Bakery introduced chocolate, coffee, and almond macaroon cakes and through the years, these favours remain the three Titans that embellish the shelves and disappear within hours. Apart from these, the bakery also offers tea cakes, gateaux, cream cakes, pastries and biscuits.
"My absolute favourite is the almond macaroon, a delightful addition to my brunch,” says Nangrejo, an officer in Wapda. “I come from Qasimabad to Bombay Bakery because their cakes are incredibly fresh, and produced a limited number,” he says. “After some unpleasant experiences with other bakeries where cakes weren't fresh, this is my go-to bakery for cakes and cookies. Buying a cake can be time-consuming, but an added advantage here is that there is ample parking even though there is always a queue. If my commute and the queues were short, I would be seen here more often. Presently, I come here twice a month.”
Yet, it isn’t just the routine bliss. Bombay Bakery has a masterstroke — the Christmas Cake — which arrives at the bakery during the festive season, and it is indeed a celebration in each bite. According to employees, these cakes can last for three to four months, guaranteeing the sweetness of the joyous times that extend long after Christmas.
“In a world galvanised by mass production, Bombay Bakery proudly sticks to the codes entrenched by its founders,” says the management. Cakes here are not an assembly-line production through machines, they are handmade and promise to conserve the flavours that have made them exemplary. It is more than a mission; it is a tradition that has been conscientiously justified over a century.”
Reflecting on his memories, Dr Saud, accompanied by his wife and son, disclosed that he first visited Bombay Bakery with his maternal uncle in 1975 when he was a first-year medical student in LUMHS, Jamshoro. “New to Hyderabad and staying with my uncle, I would often be sent off to buy cakes that were going to be gifts to relatives and friends living in Badin City,” he recalls. “These memories of my vacations are a precious part of my past. Time has flown, but nothing has changed about the bakery and the everlasting taste of these cakes."
What began with a humble stock of cakes per day has presently catapulted by over a hundred per cent today. To date, the demand far outstrips the supply, creating queues of customers and cars, quite a few of them leaving the bakery premises buying whatever that was available at the time because everything was sold out early in the day or dismally leaving empty-handed.
"Almost every day we sell out within hours," says an employee, beaming proudly. “Ofcourse there are incidents of angry and frustrated customers but we have become used to these situations and deal with them smoothly, expressing regret and sharing their disappointment to appease unhappy customers.
One such customer, Hafiz Abdullah, a resident of Hyderabad, was returning from Bombay Bakery along with his visibly disheartened daughter. "Unfortunately, my daughter's favourite chocolate cake is sold out,” he says. “She is truly disappointed, but to be honest, bit angry with me too because I was delayed in getting here. I can understand her frustration. I have promised that tomorrow, I'll especially make an early stop here to make sure I get hold of the chocolate cake and turn her disappointment into delight.”
A management official spoke about their cakes being bought at the bakery and resold at higher prices. “There are some unscrupulous proprietors in Hyderabad, Nooriabad, and Karachi, who sell our cakes at inflated prices and make a profit,” he says. “To try and maintain the integrity of our baked goods and ensure that every customer experiences the real quality and taste of the bakery, we now have a policy of limiting the sale of not more than two to four cakes per client. This measure has safeguarded our reputation and the exclusivity of our creations to some extent.”
However, the bakery’s policy might have created problems for some genuine cake-lovers such as Mir Ishaq Khan Murree, an agriculture landlord from Tando Allahyar city. "I frequently visit different department offices in Hyderabad in regard to my work and during these visits, I buy cakes from Bombay Bakery. I am usually accompanied with a group of four and this way I can purchase around eight to 10 cakes. Out of these, three to four cakes are reserved for my family, while the remaining are split between friends and relatives in my hometown. This is my heartfelt way of sharing the delicious flavours of Bombay Bakery with those close to me.”
The administration proudly acknowledges that restricting cake production is a deliberate decision to shield quality. It is not about quantity; it is only about sustaining the integrity of taste that has developed with the bakery's name and is synonymous with the brand.
Amidst a world of ever-evolving tastes, what makes Bombay Bakery steadfast in continuing to craft old-fashioned cakes instead of succumbing to popular trends that modern confectionaries follow? "We deliberately do not follow trends because our enduring strength comes from preserving the legacy of the original recipes introduced by the founding fathers of Bombay Bakery,” says a bakery official. “This commitment serves not only as our competitive advantage but also encapsulates the essence and identity of our bakery. Cherished for decades, the time-tested cakes reflect our dedication to providing our valued customers with an authentic and distinctive experience."
There are many stories of cakes being presented as gifts across Pakistan and all over the globe, from the US and the UK to Europe and Australia, Bombay Bakery's cakes defy borders, conveying Hyderabad's warmth and sweetness.
Met with Abdul Mateen, he said, "I'm here to buy coffee cakes for my son in the UK,” says Abdul Mateen. “I have this tradition of sending these cakes to him whenever any of our relatives or friends are traveling."
Each cake that leaves the bakery is not merely a confection, it is an illustration of tradition and history, a tale shrouded in layers of flavour. Customers do not just buy cakes; they devote themselves to a custom that encompasses generations. Such is the fascination of people around the country, particularly those returning from Hyderabad or even Karachi to Punjab, KP or Balochistan, who want to take the taste of Bombay Bakery home with them.
"I've heard so much about Bombay Bakery's cakes through electronic and social media,” says an excited Umair Ali from Sialkot, on his first-ever trip to the bakery. “I made a pitstop in Hyderabad on my way back to Multan, enticed by the fame surrounding these cakes and I'm curious to see if they live up to the buzz. In Multan, we're known for our distinctive halwa, so comparing the two well-known treats will be an interesting experience."
Asif Ali from Karachi who has been coming to the bakery since 1980, and Akram Shah, a Lahore-based businessman on a business trip, shared a different perspective, "Having tasted the cakes from Bombay Bakery numerous times during my visits, I honestly say that while the cakes are delightful, they may seem similar to those from other confectionaries. However, what sets this bakery apart is its iconic status and brand recognition. In spite of Lahore being quite a geographical distance from Hyderabad, gifting these cakes to my friends in Lahore makes them happy because they recognise and appreciate the uniqueness of the brand."
A staff member speculates that the name of the bakery may have been adopted from the vibrant city of Bombay in India by the late Shri Pahlaj Thadani, perhaps because he like Bombay, but the bakery is a Pakistani icon.
The Thadani family who owns the bakery have declined countless offers to open new franchises in other cities, Islamabad, Lahore and Peshawar, because of their preference to remain true to the origins, firmly trusting that limiting production is pivotal in protecting the soul of the bakery. As an endorsement of its historical importance, the Sindh government has given it the prestigious status of a national heritage, according to BBC report.
As the sun sets over Hyderabad, Bombay Bakery stands as a timeless guardian of the sweet legacy that was initiated in 1911. More than a domain of confection, it continues an active testament to the city's cultural tapestry.
Ali Raza Mugheri is a freelance contributor
All facts and information are the sole responsibility of the writer