Afghan culinary legacy enriches Pakistani kitchens

Cuisine from across border finds a permanent home in refugee host country


Wisal Yousafzai November 15, 2023
Dishes like Afghani pulao, seekh kebab, rosh beef and many others now embellish the menus of prestigious Pakistani establishments. PHOTO: EXPRESS

PESHAWAR:

As Afghans bid adieu to cherished memories, they are leaving behind a savoury legacy that now graces the tables of homes and renowned eateries across Pakistan.

While the waves of migrations triggered since the invasion of the Soviet Union altered the geopolitical configurations of the region, a flavourful fusion of Afghan heritage and culinary finesse also transformed the gastronomic landscape in Pakistan – an accidental gift oddly borne out of the period of turmoil.

The Torkham border witnesses a daily procession of travellers, marking the return of Afghan nationals to their homeland from Pakistan to avoid deportation under a government push for undocumented migrants to be expelled.

The move affects more than 1 million Afghans, many of whom the government says have been involved in militant attacks and crime.

Decades after the Soviet Union's invasion, waves of Afghan migrants sought refuge in Pakistan, where warm hospitality welcomed them. Over the years, Pakistan became a haven for education, livelihoods, and settlement, offering Afghans opportunities unparalleled in the region.

This enduring friendship, often likened to the mighty generosity of the Ansar of Madina during the early days of Islam, continues to flourish.

Read also: Illegal Afghan migrants​​​​​​​

According to government statistics, millions of Afghans are residing in Pakistan, with an additional 400,000 unregistered individuals making Khyber Pakhtunkhwa their home.

Yet, as Afghans repatriate, they're not merely carrying memories of Pakistan. They leave behind a culinary legacy that has seamlessly integrated into Pakistani cuisine.

Dishes like Afghani pulao, seekh kebab, rosh beef and many others, once brought across borders, now embellish the menus of prestigious Pakistani establishments.

Ali Raza, who came from Karachi to Peshawar in pursuit of these exquisite flavours, attests to the indistinguishable nature of these dishes from Afghan traditions, especially among the Pashtun community.

"While our Afghan brothers and sisters will eventually settle back home," Ali said, "their memories will forever linger in the heart of Pakistan, with the tastes that have become part of our own culture and kitchens."

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