Pearls, patchwork, patriotism: Highs and lows of the fashion extravaganza at TEXPO 2023

The two-day showcase featured designers Huma Adnan, Rizwan Beyg, Deepak Perwani, and Ali Xeeshan among others

KARACHI:

The Trade Development Authority Pakistan (TDAP) showcased a glimmer of hope for the return of vibrant fashion weeks as part of this year's Textile Expo 2023 (TEXPO 2023). Amidst a sea of fashion journalists, designers, and a red carpet glittering with anticipation, people were transported back to a time when such events were commonplace.

A curved ramp at Karachi's Expo Centre took centre stage. As everyone took to their seats, there were hushed whispers about how long has it been since they last attended a fashion week. The who's who of the fashion industry was looking forward to the designer lineup, the models, the razzmatazz – betting on who would emerge victorious.

However, while expectations were high for dramatic styling and innovative collections, the fashion shows proved to be a mixed bag, oscillating between impressive designs and some lacklustre offerings. With 22 showings lined up during the two-day event, only some managed to be memorable after the catwalk. The line-up also included the work of students from Indus Valley School (IVS), Asian Institute of Fashion Design (AIFD) and Textile Institute of Pakistan (TIP) – where only IVS understood the assignment.

Despite the ups and downs, the event expertly choreographed by Nubain Ali and styled backstage by team Nabila, served as a reminder that while fashion may be highly commercial in these trying times, there is hope for innovation.

Day 1 - The Good and the Bad

Rizwan Beyg, the genius behind intricate embroidery, ditched the familiar and opened the show with a collection that might come off as minimal in front of his previous works – but it was a pleasant surprise!



It was snowing ivory on the ramp as models cat-walked in summer dresses, flouncy skirts, and suave but elegant menswear; the collection was perfected for Gen Z. The chic solid designs were smartly paired with chunky leather belts and minimal jewellery.

Second, in line was Adnan Pardesy walking down memory lane and trying his hand with denim – and boy, did he play like a master. Treading lines between western, eastern and fusion wear, the designer painted the ramp blue with each design a different shade. He weaved, bleached, dyed, washed, patched – you name it. Pardesy left no room for imagination for he experimented with the cloth to its full potential and it showed.

Next up were J. and Huma Adnan who, much to our disappointment stayed well within their comfort zone - timeless kurta pyjamas and vibrant tribal designs respectively. Adnan’s work was definitely on brand for the textile expo given how her skirts and jackets looked like regal statement pieces that can be styled in various ways. The blouses, with crochet and bead work, were everything! The same, however, cannot be said for J.

And then came Sana Safinaz with a collection that was all about couture and high-street lines. It featured a medley of colours, matching cutwork, embroidery, and applique techniques. The lehengas, gowns, and everyday fashion were all undeniably pretty with their intricate details.

However, the winner for us was Wardha Saleem. The designer not only had fun but brought some bold designs on the catwalk experimenting with psychedelic prints, neon shades, and floral embroideries. There were ruffles, peplums, jackets, pearls, slits, capes and so much more to take ideas from.

On the contrary, there was Amna Aqeel. The designer chose a monochrome palette and brought all the glamour to it. From shimmery tunics to translucent pants, the collection embodied a seductive sophistication. However, Aqeel failed to impress thoroughly with her collection. While many of her pieces ticked all the boxes, some were downright abysmal.

Moving on, it was all eyes on M. Jafferjee’s leather collection. The designer, keeping up with the trend of neon colours and dark themes, showcased handbags, trolleys, laptop bags, and clutches in shades of greens, pinks, yellows and all colours you wouldn’t expect from a leather company known for its statement brown articles.

Deepak Perwani brought the evening to a dazzling close with his Starry Night collection. Shimmer and glitter took centre stage, adorning off-shoulder shirts, long tunics, jacket and pant sets, flirty dresses, long skirts, and even a pant sari.

However, while the collection was a treat for the eyes, one found themselves lost in between different aesthetics. There was no cohesion. The night ended with a twirling Sonya Hussyn wearing a piece from his 2013 Frieda collection.

Day 2: Veteran, aspiring designers conquer

Day two of TEXPO 2023 was exponentially better than the first. The second and last day opened with the remarking glamour of Shamael Ansari’s magnificence and closed with Ali Xeeshan, surrounded by his models, with a homage to his motherland. Apart from the ripped skinny jeans, Shamael’s collection was beautiful with its kaftans, floral motifs, sequins and flared pants.

Another stand-out collection was of The Pink Tree Company. Models, dressed in animal prints and vibrant colours donned pantsuits, gowns, short party dresses, and long tunics and walked to the late Tina Turner’s Simply The Best. Sarwat Gilani walked the catwalk as the designer’s showstopper and the celebrity appeal definitely had a loud applause for them. An outfit that was particularly memorable was the ivory one-shoulder satin silk dress embroidered with animal motifs.

Sanam Chaudhry turned up the heat in Aladdin-esque clothes that brought an oomph factor to the ramp as no one else did. Using pastels and neons, she brought a striking balance to the catwalk with neatly cut tops draped around the body in ways that accentuate one's features.

The winner, however, for day two was Parishae Adnan, the daughter of designers Huma Adnan and Amir Adnan. The young designer did not only manage to establish her distinct vision with a selective range of designs but also redefined what unisex formal wear could look like. From Nimra Jacob’s rockstar avatar to a plain white saari giving competition to Gangubai’s fashion to the showstopper wearing a saari skirt with a halter neck top and a long cape-like jacket – Parishae nailed it.

Coming back to Xeeshan, the veteran certainly knows how to own the ramp with his collections. From caricatures that looked like him to stuffed toys to the bridal decor as accessories, the designer added his style to each and every design. However, the outfits ranged from heavily embellished bridal lehengas to nightgowns and activewear. The said contradiction in his offerings wasn't too pleasant on the eye.

The students from IVS also put forward an impeccable collection that broke the stereotype of fashion schools producing clothes that are bold, dramatic and realistically unwearable – and that was enough hope for the future of fashion in the country. The pieces, both Western and Eastern, espoused a sense of trend but the personal aesthetic also shone through. The other showings simply lacked the drama required for the ramp and so, even celebrities like Jan Rambo and Shoaib Malik couldn't do much to save it.

Despite some unoriginal and forgettable pieces, the two-day fashion show was a reminder that even in these trying times, the masterminds haven’t given up on their style aesthetics and continue to give air to their imagination. Here’s to growing fashion that’s sustainable, memorable and dramatic!

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