Rolling back in time

A glimpse of international fall/winter trends.

ISLAMABAD:

With crisp fall weather just a monsoon away, it’s about time for a much-needed peek into the Fall/Winter trends that dominate international catwalks in 2011- looks from New York, Paris and Milan.

Back to the 60s and 70s

Flares, bright pants, 70s-inspired day dresses, knits, and polka dots have made a strong comeback this season. Luca Luca mid-length day dress — in deep orange from the Fall-Winter collection 2011 — is a perfect example of the look, recalling fashion icons like Twiggy.

The characteristic ‘mod’ style of the 60s is also roaring this year. Designers like Alberta Ferretti have done a stellar take on the look: Peter Pan collars, patent shifts and double-breasted pea coats have all made appearances. Shades of orange and mustard are dominating this style — like Feretti, Burberry has also come out with a similar mod coat, in pale orange. The Row’s velvet-mustard blazer and newcomer Wes Gordon’s velvet-mustard knee-length dress are also hot this season. “Two-piece ensembles in fabrics that really hold structure, like felt and wool, bridge the gap between ladylike and mod perfectly,” said Vogue’s Calgary Avansino, summarising the vintage trend obsession.

A sense of 60s frivolity, experimentation and class also permeates men’s fashion this fall. Alexis Mabille offers neutral colors, lots of whites, bow ties, knotted tan belts and beaded bracelets to add notes of hippie, bohemian chic. Dunhill, especially, has gone back to vintage trenches for men: Their cream-white trench clinched at the waist by a black sash is a standout from the fall collection and offers a simple and elegant look that can be emulated cheaply (as long as the trench itself doesn’t look too oversized). Patchwork suits, especially from the Kenzo Line, are also a great way of looking like you have stepped out of a 70s GQ (Gentlemen’s Quarterly) shoot. There is an old-school feel to this ensemble that works perfectly with conservative fall trends, when everyone’s done with showing skin in the summer months.

Brights, jewels and subversive chic

Super-saturated, bright and jewel tones are also trends to be mindful of this fall especially when it comes to pants; these can be either flared, tapered, cropped or high-wasted. Yigal Azrouel’s slim, yellow tapered pants and Phillip Lim’s glossy pink flares are a point of reference. Similarly, jade tones are the new black and have officially become the go-to party picks for fall night-life. ‘The Jade Green Dress’ was a hot pick on catwalks this season with Azrouel and Marc Jacobs dominating the look.

For men especially, the aesthetic has taken a turn for the experimental with lots of ankle pants and leather. Burberry Prorsum and Paul Smith have returned to a more subversive and urban rock/punk look but adjusted it to 2011 sensibilities: Polka trousers, the James Dean leather jacket and effeminate spins on military styles.

To roundup, what we are seeing this year is a return to revamps and new variations of tried-and-tested looks like polka dots and iconic trends from the 60s and 70s. Because what’s hot for fall is relatively basic and not too over-the-top (we leave that to couture), looking good will be a cinch so long as you know what colors and outfits work this season. So just pull out your mother’s old tartan coat or a 70s-inspired beige/white trench and you’re good to go.

Published in The Express Tribune, July 15^th, 2011.