FPW Day One: When all else fails, nature hails

A handful of designers stood out in an otherwise not-so-starry night


Asfa Sultan October 24, 2019

KARACHI: From sheath to A-lines and bells to trumpets, the first day of Fashion Pakistan Week (FPW) witnessed altering silhouettes and varying hemlines. However, what did not vary was the approach to bring something new to the ramp. Pastels were primarily infused with shades of pink until floral patterns imprinted on bright colours made their way to the runway, with the winter fest rapidly progressing into spring for some onlookers. Hints of velvet from time to time were a soothing reminder of the upcoming chilly season.

The offerings gradually shredded down to charcoal and silver grey, reflecting a faint shimmer across the matte finished floor on a humid Wednesday night. Majority of the outfits featured flat braid work with a strong emphasis on gold and geometric designs. While the menswear was dapper and crisp, made from a clean colour palette of muted tones. Here is a rundown of the opening day of the fashion extravaganza.

Alkaram Studio

Collection: La vie en rose

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The evening kicked off with the design house showcasing its luxury prêt line. La vie en rose, the French term that loosely translates to ‘Life in Pink’ was a dialogue between culture and design. It sought to spread breast cancer awareness across fashion platforms, displaying inclusivity and diversity. The collection featured layers and exaggerated ruffles across all garments, possibly depicting the signature breast cancer ribbons. It was undeniably the longest and the only memorable showcase along with Hassan Riaz’s French garden, among the five designers who exhibited their collections.

La vie en rose 2

Alkaram also fused banarsi with several outfits, along with Thar bangles and old-school hairdos, which complimented the chic, net and silk garments as well as the luxurious velvet outfits. One cannot defy how fulfilling the colour of Ayeza Khan’s show-stopping dress looked, nor could the shimmer on her stone-studded blouse be ignored. Not to mention, Muneeb Butt also donned a pink sherwani with golden embroidery paired with beige trousers.

Boheme

Collection: Gul-e-Nar

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It was undeniably the least impressive showcase. Although, it incorporated traditional material inspired from the Sindhi gajj embroidery, it did not turn out preferably appeasing. The line could be fit for another fest, given the warm colours it featured. However, it is safe to say that the red bandhani dupattas and funky braids were loved by all.

The method of combining lace and patch work made the ensembles look unattractive to say the least. Following the use of vibrant colours, everything became cluttered in terms of pattern and design. Saboor Aly closed the show but the only interesting part of her attire was the sleeveless indigo koti she donned over the mirror worked red shirt.

Gogi by Hasan Riaz

Collection: Lost in my French Garden

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This was by far the most successful experiment of the night. While it may have lacked practicality, it roared superiority. There was an attitude attached to the outfits as Perdu dans mon Jardin à la Française, meaning ‘Lost in My French Garden’ ultimately paid homage to the French gardens. The use of sharp cuts, vibrant colours, classical couture and frills provided for a flamboyant appeal. The only matter of concern, however, was how the collection could be called “futuristic” when the pieces only depicted French fashion of the 50s? Trendy sunnies, PVC jackets and headpieces were the only accessories that could justify a so-called futuristic collection.

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Nevertheless, with Nimra Khan as the showstopper, the silk and organza fabrics infused with vintage embellishments appeared divine when paired with combinations of teal green, white, pink and yellow. Net gloves, hats and white canes were also spotted, symbolising an elite cover with old-school cigarette and tobacco pipes.

Yasmin Zaman

Collection: Tirana

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Another average collection featuring Albanian kilts and vests through the colours and fabrics of Pakistani formal wear. Although Yasmin’s colour scheme was commendable in terms of creating outfits suitable for winter, her creations lacked creativity when it came to making modern cuts and inculcating radiant embellishments. There was overlapping of colours and the merging of different embroidery techniques on loose jackets and elaborate sleeves. Sarwat Gilani turned heads in an olive green velvet outfit. Yasmin also collaborated with two budding female designers on the collection; footwear from Soma Intl and bespoke jewellery from Haya Lutfullah.

Ayesha Farook

Collection: Mahnoor (Light of the moon)

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Last but also the least colourful collection of the entire show, it culminated the vibrance of the day into the charcoal and silver grey darkness of the night. Mahnoor, meaning moonlight, reflected the delicately crafted workmanship on a contemporary version of wedding wear. Mustard also made its way into the dresses, along with bejewelled kaftans, jumpsuits, capes and jackets paired with harem pants.

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There was increased use of silk in this collection, possibly for the purpose of reflecting with material and not colour and adorned with flashy stones, pearls and embroidery. Fauzia Aman closed the evening as she strutted on the runway in a sunny yellowish-orange silk kaftan.

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