Cuts
A huge assortment of silhouettes were displayed on the ramp. Although many conventional cuts were showcased, there wasn’t a lack of modernised shapes. Rano’s Heirloom and Wardha Saleem’s predominant emphasis was on traditional wear with the likes of lehenga choli, churidaar pajama and pishwaas on the runway. While the two collections were very distinct and targeted to different audiences, their essence was similar, if not the same.
The womenswear showcased by Maheen Khan and Maheen Karim was all contemporary but both compilations exhibited completely separate cuts. While Khan’s entailed exaggerated collars and longer shirts, Karim’s also featured exaggeration but in a different form. The latter’s collection exuded old school cabaret vibes featuring fabulous ruffles and glamorous profiles.
Deepak And Fahad and Sara Rohale Asghar took an interesting approach; entwining the spirit of conventional attires with modern day cuts. The former’s exhibition portrayed straight shirts paired with fitted pajamas or Patiala shalwars whereas Asghar’s collection featured many peplum style shirts and dipped hems much like Karim’s.
The menswear lines saw a vast selection of exciting shapes. From flowy kameezs to tailored trousers, the assortment of outfits displayed on the runway was definitely a sight for sore eyes. Both Sastre and Deepak And Fahad played with shirt lengths, featuring very short waistcoats as well as long, anarkali-esque shirts. Sherwanis seemed to dominate the runway as majority of the male models were seen clad in the same.
Nonetheless, it was the variation displayed within these sherwanis that kept us intrigued. Asymmetry, double-breasted, front-open, ornamented, embroidered, printed – you name it, they had it! The cutting edge blazers from Sastre’s collection were no less of a show, as they radiated old school charm with modern twists.
Overall, day two followed in the footsteps of the previous day displaying long shirts, front-open styles and dipped hems for the ladies. As far as the menswear is concerned, fitted silhouettes, dapper waistcoats and varying lengths made up the top trends.
Colours
Rosy shades seemed to be very popular on Day two’s catwalk as several shades of pinks and reds were showcased. With Deepak And Fahad being the only exception, all other designers displayed flame colours in one way or another. While Karim and Rano’s Heirloom went for more vibrant shades, Asghar and Khan kept within muted tones, whereas Saleem exhibited a mix.
Nontheless, pastels were still in the scene, with Saleem, Asghar and Deepak And Fahad displaying soft hues in their compilations. Once again, white was prevalent as majority of the designers incorporated the shade in their ensembles, even in the menswear.
Accessories
From handsome briefcases to elaborate shawls, the menswear line at the second installment of the gala really upped its game. Deepak And Fahad and Sastre sent out models clad in stunning shawls entailing zardozi and block print on velvet, jamawaar and tulle.
Sastre also exhibited an array of delicately beautiful pocket squares, beaded neck pieces and an extravagant bamboo briefcase – introducing a rather striking alternative to the basic leather cases. Saleem’s single meanswear ensemble also exuded the same fashion with the addition of printed cloth and gota on the shawl.
Larger-than-life earrings are definitely on trend this season with many designers opting to send models out wearing oversized, bejeweled pieces. Karim showcased a variety of such earrings as did Saleem.
On the contrary, Deepak And Fahad, Khan and Rano’s Heirloom opted for no jewellery at all. While this decision may have come naturally for the first two design houses as they showcased contemporary attires, it’s pretty surprising of Rano’s Heirloom to take this route as her collection focused on timeless bridals.
Embellishments
Saturday night’s gala brought back the gota, showcased by Saleem and Rano’s Heirloom as part of their traditional attires. Nonetheless, the collections were still dominated by the likes of zardozi, embroidery and beadwork, much like day one.
The ornamentation featured by all the designers entailed zardozi in at least one outfit, holding this form of embellishment to be the most popular of the season. Adding on to that was the striking metallic block prints showcased by Saleem.
Karim took a completely different route and incorporated 3D embellishments in her offerings. Sastre also did the same but took a more minimal approach. However, as these two designers were the only ones to add such embellishments, we don’t think this style of adornment will stay. The eccentric buttons within the latter’s menswear line, on the other hand, should definitely stay.
Hair and makeup
As we had the chance to witness more menswear this time around, it’s only natural that we speak about the trends shown off by the male models on the runway. Side swept hair and structured beards seemed to dominate the show as the models walked down the ramp one by one. Again, dark hair was the trend as majority sported jet black manes, showcased by both Fahad And Deepak and Sastre by Shahmeer Ansari.
As for the women, trends from the first day trickled down to the second and we saw models donning smooth buns and ponytails mainly featuring a middle-parting. The only difference was that there were variations in the buns – with both low ones and top knots making appearances on Khan’s models. The makeup was fairly similar with the addition of metallic eyes and nude lips on this evening. Brows were kept simple, not too bold neither feathered.
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