Rana Noman goes solo

After working with veteran designer Nilofer Shahid, Rana Noman decides to run solo.

LAHORE: Although the name Rana Noman is not new to the fashion industry, this is the first time that Noman will be standing alone amongst his peers. He worked with the grand dame of couture Nilofer Shahid as a fresh graduate and then designed for Saadia Mirza’s line, Virtues. His last stint, and the one that really brought his talent and passion for tradition to the fore, was with Bareeze’s Chinyere, which delivered a scintillating debut at the Fashion Pakistan Week last year.

What struck critics was the fact that Noman did not compromise on his regal aesthetic and yet showcased a ramp-worthy collection in royal taste. In tandem with a socialite friend, he also launched a store for upcoming talent called Platform with outlets in Lahore, Islamabad and Dubai. Now that this budding fashion entrepreneur has decided to go solo as a designer for his self-titled label, where is he heading? The Express Tribune asks the man himself.

Why did you leave Chinyere after bringing the brand to a stage where it could rock at fashion week?

It was high time for Rana Noman to be unleashed. It was just the right time for me to take a step forward since I was re-evaluating a lot of major personal decisions at the time.

Nilofer is my guru. Everything I have learnt about embellishment and craft, I have learnt at the Meeras workshops. Meeras is where I have received my true education. So, although I do traditional work along Nilofer’s lines, my work is different, since I design along with my clients. Therefore, all my pieces are individualistic and never the same since my designs are inspired by whatever knowledge of family background and heirlooms the client brings to me.

You ask clients to bring their mother’s old saris and ghararas. Isn’t that counter-productive?

I love old saris and ghararas. You can’t find this kind of fabric and rich colour schemes in today’s world. I encourage all my clients to take out their treasures and use them as the starting point for creating something new that is a classic in its own right.

It’s not counter-productive since I work within a client’s budget anyway and whatever we create together is unique. Clients value my honesty and know I am not out to make a quick buck.

What is the cornerstone of the Rana Noman brand?

I’m a revivalist. I want all of us to go back to our roots and unearth the rich heritage of culture, jewels and fabrics have. The subcontinent was a grand jewel for the colonialists and we have forgotten the wealth of work and beauty that exists within us. Our region is famous for its regal heirlooms and I want us all to bring that back to the fore.

You’re a fashion entrepreneur (managing the multi-label store Platform) as well an upcoming designer yourself. Is there not a conflict of interest in these two vocations?

Well you need to develop a balance between the two and find the challenges of doing both rather healthy. I operate very well with new people and my inspiration comes from meeting new people, hearing their stories and by advising and guiding them through their own work. People’s garments tell their stories.

In the same way that young fashion graduates that come to Platform give me new directions to take my own work.

Will you be debuting at the impending PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week in March?

I have just consented to doing it and have begun to work on it. You will just have to wait and see.

The fashion industry is moving from embellishment towards more structure. How will your brand survive in such a fashion environment?

I do structured garments every day along with my traditional wear. My team gets to practice its cuts every day since women come to us for daily-wear clothing so we do a lot of cowl necks, kaftans, elephant and skinny pants. I have studied and practiced all these different cuts and silhouettes. So we haven’t really forsaken structure for embellishment but it’s just that I do not want to be known as that kind of a designer. I am a bridal wear designer — that needs to be classic. So, it’s all about your priorities as a designer.

Published in The Express Tribune, February 23^rd, 2011.