KARACHI: Displaying a combination of the familiar and the new, the second day of Fashion Pakistan Week (FPW) Winter Festive 2016 is bound to leave striking trends in our memories. Deepak Perwani’s jaw-dropping showstopper outfit, Shehla Chatoor’s fairy-tale designs and Huma Adnan’s traditional lenghas adorned with pockets for a modern vibe, were among the most elegant offerings of the evening. Here is a rundown of the fashion-tastic showcases on the day.
Designer: House of Arsalan Iqbal
Collection: Baroque Star
Drawing inspiration from the exuberance and grandeur of 16th century Baroque paintings and architecture, Iqbal put forward a black and gold collection. The offerings featured a variety of structured and cohesive silhouettes, mostly comprising menswear. Showstoppers Mohib Mirza and Zurain Imam certainly got the crowd cheering. We found exquisite footwear on the ramp, some of which was made using the design house’s own fabric, adding the perfect finishing touch. It certainly does show the thought and creativity behind the final product on the runway and that is always a positive thing.
Designer: HEM by Sumbul Asif
Collection: Golden Cage
The collection proved that the harmony of bold colours is what wedding season is all about. The brand also reminded us that the glam factor of fringe dupattas is definitely a force to reckon with – we love to see it expertly executed on the ramp. The live singing during the show transported us someplace else, a wedding celebration perhaps. The collection had been created over a variety of light fabrics such as chiffon, silk, net and organza to add a sense of romance to this contemporary baroque line. It was a celebration of craft, couture-style with pieces that one can wear at a party as well as weddings and other festive occasions.
Designer: Deepak Perwani
Collection: Celebration of Love
The couturier’s showcase maintained an uplifting vibe and the spirit of tradition throughout. He stayed true to his bridal wear aesthetics and opted for a mix of vibrant hues which, when paired together, were simply genius. We spotted ombre lenghas, floral motifs, and regal red shawls on the ramp which were a sight for sore eyes. While shawls with miniatures are something we have seen before, Perwani incorporated larger and bolder motifs on them. What striked us most was how he not only draped these statement pieces on female models, but on the male models as well. He closed his show with Ayeza Khan walking the ramp in an ethereal silver bridal.
Designer: Natasha Kamal
Stylish statement pieces created using signature gota, appliqué, intricate beadwork, embroidery and cutwork detailing were seen in Kamal’s collection. It was a bold showcase with tailored silhouettes, sumptuous fabrications and couture details.
This season, Kamal placed great emphasis on structure and symmetry. She presented contemporary silhouettes including some relaxed bridals, using lace on organza, flowy chiffon jumpsuits, cut-out shirts, front open jackets, and cutwork cholis. We witnessed a diverse colour scheme of white, red, peach and silver. Gold and mesh was another theme seen in Kamal’s bridal wear – but largely this collection was made for someone who wants to keep their look understated. The showstoppers Gohar Rasheed and Aisha Rao Khan certainly made heads turn in the modern day bridal ensembles.
Designer: FnkAsia by Huma Adnan
Collection: Midnight Garden
Huma Adnan went ethnic and bohemian with this line. Giving her bridal wear a modern day makeover, she attached pockets to lenghas, created off-shoulder silhouettes and displayed her style of the now-trending gharara pant. The collection also saw a transition into western wear, where Adnan used traditional gold embroidery on jumpsuits and pantsuits. Rich gem colours such as deep purples and cranberry concentrates were the most visible shades that are apt for the winter season. Our favourite look of Adnan’s show was the showstopper, Hania Aamir. The original yet simple outfit shone throughout the showcase.
Designer: Shehla Chatoor
The ace designer showcased a swoon-worthy collection. She presented a line featuring western wear and heavy bridals – both of which blew us away. While she maintained her signature cuts, Chatoor also incorporated oriental floral designs, capes, trails, and ball-gowns. We especially loved the way she added textures such as fur, net and velvet to the bridal outfits. One of our favourite ensembles was the floral silk harem pant paired with a fully embellished, fur-collared jacket. And, what made it stand out even more was the fact that the embellishments were not forced and not just done for the sake of adorning the outfit.
Models walked the ramp in beaded fringe and fur dupattas as well. Chatoor keeps her bridals contemporary, and her western collection stays within a cool and classic colour palette. Her take on the velvet lengha was tasteful and classy. This was definitely the strongest collection of the day – one that we wish would never end.
Published in The Express Tribune, November 2nd, 2016.