Kalam: Fifty shades of green

Pristine lakes, dense forests and lush meadows define this rustic tehsil of Swat district

‘This must be what heavens look like’ is a thought that occurs just too often when one is in Kalam – a tehsil in Swat district, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa (KP). Situated at a distance of merely 100 kilometres from Mingora, the valley is truly the outback of our civilisation. The road leading to it is as allusive as the scenery around it and is also a test of one’s mettle on the wheel.

PHOTO: Saalar Ahmad

It is nerve-wracking if you choose a summer weekend for an escapade. Whatever the provincial government may claim about its police efficiency, the traffic management is almost non-existent even in smaller towns such as Bahrain that fall along the way to Kalam.

PHOTO: Saalar Ahmad

The construction of highways and their safety and maintenance is in the federation’s domain. But the region has not been on Islamabad’s priority list ever since Taliban took over it. Now cleared of miscreants, focus in the region has been on eliminating terrorism and the provision of civic services and citizen’s well-being remain largely ignored. The same apathy is evident in the state of wooden pedestrian bridges that hang over raging rivers and streams.

PHOTO: Saalar Ahmad

The dilapidated footbridges, dangling over the growling Swat River, send chills down the spine of even the most nature-loving patriot.

PHOTO: Saalar Ahmad

Mahodand Lake, one of the largest and most scenic lakes in the Swat valley, is located at a distance of about 40 km from Kalam, in the Usho Sub-valley in the foothills of Hindu Kush mountains. It is accessible with four-wheel drive vehicles and is a good resort for fishing, boating and camping. Surrounded by snow-clad mountains, lush green meadows and thick forests, the lake leaves visitors hypnotized with its beauty. Though not easily accessible, Kundol Lake in the Utror region rivals Mahodand Lake in beauty as well as in abundance of brown trout fish.

PHOTO: Saalar Ahmad

Due to lack of interest from the government in protecting the environment and promoting eco-tourism, the lakes are becoming dumping ground for non-biodegradable plastics in addition to suffering from deforestation, vehicular noise and hydro-carbon pollutants.

PHOTO: Saalar Ahmad

Soil-covered glaciers are a common sight. Though the locals are conscious about the challenges associated with seasonal glacial melting and caving in, the smartphone-equipped tourists care little. And unfortunately, there are no warning boards installed to inform the visitors just like there are no signs for hazardous roads and terrains in the area.

PHOTO: Saalar Ahmad

Post-military operation Swat has witnessed exponential increase in tourism. With life returning to normalcy after Taliban’s exit, investment in hospitality industry has increased but often at the cost of the environment. Hotels are either built after chopping off mature and thick vegetation or by stretching to the heart of riverbeds. The local administration and tourism authorities both seem to have perfected the art of compromise.

PHOTO: Saalar Ahmad

Just on the outskirts of Kalam city and en route to Mahodand Lake lies a popular camping site. Even from a distance, the cluster of tall, strong trees is very impressive. The invading tourists, with little regard for wildlife, hamper the movement of animals in addition to polluting the pristine area. Also, the ever-hungry timber mafia - in collusion with local officials - is mercilessly pilfering the valley of its precious natural asset.

PHOTO: Saalar Ahmad

If you are not a camper, the most affordable and comfortable abode in Kalam remains Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation’s (PTDC) motel. The building is old but well-maintained with an extremely courteous staff. But to enjoy the motel’s scenic views and scrumptious food, you may have to plan your trip weeks in advance and contact the PTDC office near you.

PHOTO: Saalar Ahmad

Saalar Ahmad is an O Level student who has special interest in adventure, photography and music. Camera and guitar are his best friends and he can be found on Facebook.

Naveed Ahmad is a Pakistani investigative journalist and academic with extensive reporting experience in the Middle East and North Africa. He is based in Doha and Istanbul and tweets @naveed360