In pursuit of greener passports

If you think you can get something done in Karachi without “gifting” someone, think again.

Yousuf Bawany June 14, 2011
I had been dreading this day for months. The inevitability of not being able to travel with a valid passport loomed over my head. Despite my fears I was optimistic when my brother and I headed towards Awami Markaz, Shahra-e-Faisal.

CNIC? Check.

Old Passport? Check.

Yousuf in all his glory? Check.

Our car was surrounded by zombies moving in for the kill.
"Bhai Sahab, are you here for a passport? We can get it done for you and you won’t even have to get in line.”

This always sounds too good to be true and it actually is; these “service providers” don’t come for free. For a small fee ranging upto Rs1,500 they can get you a Green Passport even if you don’t have a National Identity Card.

Five years is a long time to remember the exact process of getting your passport renewed, so after asking a few people for directions, we got in a long line for the token. Turns out, you have to pay the passport renewal fee in advance at a bank three floors up, and bring back a stamped receipt to start the process.

Step 1: Finger-printing: The counter sported an old guy with a bad attitude screaming at everyone who either:
(a) failed to press their finger hard enough on the scanner

(b) put the wrong finger on the scanner

I associated this attitude of his to either:
(a) a fight with his wife before checking into work

(b) a neurological/genetic defect

“Right-thumb, Right-index, Left-thumb, Left-index” I got the scheme memorised so as to avoid p***ing off the already p***ed-off old guy even more. A couple of victims later, I stepped up to the scanner confidently and got the whole thing right on the first try; my brother wasn’t so lucky and was served a slice of the finger-master’s lashing. Shaken and bruised, we moved onto the next counter waiting for our turn.

Step 2: Photography: This seemingly innocuous step isn’t straightforward at all as you have absolutely no control on how your photo might turn out. Before stepping in front of the camera, I pleadingly looked at my brother to check whether my hair was all set or not. Upon inspection, he told me that a rogue strand of hair was standing vertically on my head, making me resemble Alfa-Alfa (see list of characters in Little Rascals”).

With no water source in sight, I surreptitiously spat on my hand and applied some saliva onto my head; desperate times, desperate measures! Unfortunately, even with my au naturale hair styling, the photo came out to be ghastly. Everyone has good photo-days and bad; like most of my photo-days, this was certainly a bad one. Egad!

Step 3: Data Entry: Time to reveal all my intimate details. Yes, I am married. Yes, my address has changed. Yes, my wife has a name. Yes, I have a master’s degree. Yes, I have a new phone number. Yes, I am a private employee: one test on which I answered all the questions right. 100/100. A printed form with all my personal details was the end-result of this exercise.

Step 5: Decision-making: You might notice I skipped Step 4, which was exactly what happened that fateful day. With no one to point me in the right direction, I ended up spending 25 minutes crawling towards the desk that was Step 4.

Step 4: Black-list Verification: A bearded guy with exceedingly religious looks (i.e. myself) has got to be on this list, right? Even though I have never planned a criminal activity, let alone commit one, I couldn’t help myself from thinking “What if….?”

The endless possibilities loomed in front of me, time slowing down to a trickle. With 150 plus beats-per-minute, I handed over my credentials to the old man sitting at the desk for verification. Those were probably the most agonising three minutes of my life. Much ado about nothing, I was handed over a clean bill of health (or should I say “morality”?).

Step 5: Decision-making (revisited): As I waited in line for my turn at this counter, I couldn’t help but wonder how easily I had gotten to the very last stop on my passport-renewal journey. I was fourth (or was it fifth?) in this line and right in front were two Assistant Directors on either side of the queue. The one on the left looked like a reasonable guy and with crossed fingers, I hoped it was he who would eventually review/approve my case.

I ended up in front of Mr Never-Ending-Mustache; the wrong guy on the right side. Mr Mustache gave me a once-over, looked at my application, and asked me what I did for a living. I responded with something that he must have translated as “I earn a lot so feel free to rip me off.” He dug straight into my form/supporting-documents and after scrutinising it for a few minutes, looked up to me with a twisted grin that said it all; “Gotcha!” Turns out, my father’s last name on my National ID Card read “Bawani” while my old passport was spelled “Bawany.” He told me that I’d have to get my ID corrected (which would take eons) and only then would I be able to renew my passport – there was no way out.

My brother’s fate dealt him a similar hand (albeit a different complication) and we both walked out of the passport office in a  trance, too shaken to talk. The service providers must have smelled “defeat” all over us so one of them moved in for the kill.
“Bhai Sahab! What’s the problem?“

He asked us to wait for him while he went in and talked to Mr Mustache. He came out a few minutes later saying that if we were ready to pay Rs4,000 a piece, he’d get the passport done for us immediately. Bribing is not my thing so I refused to pay him and walked straight to my car, leaving behind a trail of invisible anger-fumes.

What happened next?

Karachi has been divided into zones and a different passport office caters to each zone. The next day, I went off to another passport office, outside my zone, and met someone a friend said could help. Not only did I get my application submitted in a jiffy, I also got another chance to get a reasonably good photograph taken (no hair standing). When I had finished the entire process, the person my friend had recommended asked me to pay him his “fee” for:

(a) all the trouble he had gone through for my application

(b) greasing the palms of all the people who had helped along the way (from Peon to Assistant Director)

Back to square one!

Moral of the story: Money’s the solution to everything!

If you think you can get something done in Karachi without “gifting” someone, think again. We as a people have become morally dead, accepting things deemed haram as norms. As far as I can see, it’s not bribing, it’s extortion, as without paying up, you will end up going in circles without ever getting what you want. Is this the legacy we want to leave behind for our children? Are these the values we wish to pass on to them?

Think about it.
Yousuf Bawany A writer who enjoys to cook foods from across the world. He blogs at He tweets @YousufBawany (
The views expressed by the writer and the reader comments do not necassarily reflect the views and policies of the Express Tribune.


usman hassan | 12 years ago | Reply lol..i can so relate my experience with yours bro..seems like everyone`s screwed the moment they decide to obtain a passport..mine is also 5 years old story before coming details popped some error on the system some F-CASE crap..i got it resolved with contacts but only after daily trips 2 NIC office etc..guess what..?..MY PASSPORT EXPIRES NEXT YEAR !! .. cant wait 4 d next
Avinash | 12 years ago | Reply @aamir: Absolutely right!
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