Day 2: Fashion Pakistan Week 2012

Published: April 9, 2012

After a lazy start, day two picks up pace. PHOTO: ATHAR KHAN/EXPRESS, NEFER SEHGAL AND ADEELA BADSHAH

After a lazy start, day two picks up pace. PHOTO: ATHAR KHAN/EXPRESS, NEFER SEHGAL AND ADEELA BADSHAH After a lazy start, day two picks up pace. PHOTO: ATHAR KHAN/EXPRESS, NEFER SEHGAL AND ADEELA BADSHAH After a lazy start, day two picks up pace. PHOTO: ATHAR KHAN/EXPRESS, NEFER SEHGAL AND ADEELA BADSHAH After a lazy start, day two picks up pace. PHOTO: ATHAR KHAN/EXPRESS, NEFER SEHGAL AND ADEELA BADSHAH After a lazy start, day two picks up pace. PHOTO: ATHAR KHAN/EXPRESS, NEFER SEHGAL AND ADEELA BADSHAH After a lazy start, day two picks up pace. PHOTO: ATHAR KHAN/EXPRESS, NEFER SEHGAL AND ADEELA BADSHAH After a lazy start, day two picks up pace. PHOTO: ATHAR KHAN/EXPRESS, NEFER SEHGAL AND ADEELA BADSHAH After a lazy start, day two picks up pace. PHOTO: ATHAR KHAN/EXPRESS, NEFER SEHGAL AND ADEELA BADSHAH After a lazy start, day two picks up pace. PHOTO: ATHAR KHAN/EXPRESS, NEFER SEHGAL AND ADEELA BADSHAH After a lazy start, day two picks up pace. PHOTO: ATHAR KHAN/EXPRESS, NEFER SEHGAL AND ADEELA BADSHAH After a lazy start, day two picks up pace. PHOTO: ATHAR KHAN/EXPRESS, NEFER SEHGAL AND ADEELA BADSHAH After a lazy start, day two picks up pace. PHOTO: ATHAR KHAN/EXPRESS, NEFER SEHGAL AND ADEELA BADSHAH After a lazy start, day two picks up pace. PHOTO: ATHAR KHAN/EXPRESS, NEFER SEHGAL AND ADEELA BADSHAH
KARACHI: 

It’s been an intense fortnight of fashion with the Showcase having ended last weekend only to herald in Fashion Pakistan Week 2012 this weekend. And while the Showcase made no claims of gaining an edge over other fashion platforms for ‘content’, FP certainly did announce a theme: high street.

With FP founding member, the elusive Rubina also known as Bunto Kazmi making a guest appearance to open the week, the council certainly pulled a coup.

In the first two days of Fashion Pakistan Week 2012, one saw an odd mix of traditionally opulent ensembles and pret-savvy collections. While Bunto Kazmi, Umar Sayeed, and Kuki Concepts remained true to classic heritage that belonged more to a bridal platform than a fashion week, Sanam Chaudhri, Maheen Khan, Shehla Chatoor and Next presented collections that could be slotted as high street fashion.

Sanam Chaudhri

A textile graduate of the Indus Valley School of Art and Architecture (IVS), Sanam Chaudhry decided to go the Stella McCartney way and have fun with sporty fashion. The audacity of the collection was best exemplified by her show opener: the sizzling and contentious Mathira. Akin to Pakistan’s sultry siren, the collection was loud, audacious and very much out there with its neon colour palette and gusty ‘devil-may-care’ attitude. Rompers, shift dresses, cat eye sleeves and jumpsuits made Chaudhry’s collection not only fun to watch, but a must-pick for a fashion forward summer.

Maheen Khan

True to her sense of style, Maheen Khan presented an effortlessly chic collection of plain kameezes with gentle frills that was simple yet sensual. Immaculately cut and artlessly constructed, each piece glided on the ramp secure in the knowledge that it needs no embellishment for effect or glory. Khan has the unique ability to give a certain life and movement to the fabric and in garments sans any embellishment.

Bunto Kazmi

While Bunto is widely acclaimed to be the Queen of Couture, her show was very much an extension of herself: restrained and regal. Hence, people who were expecting drum rolls or fireworks at Bunto’s show, were sorely disappointed. A ramp can’t do justice to a brand that prides itself on intricate craftsmanship that requires close appraisal. From classic sherwani front-open coats with aizars in intricate embellishments like vasli and kursi ki jaali, an heirloom of chundhri and fine maroori to a version of the ivory ensemble that Sharmeen Obaid-Chinoy wore to the Oscars, the collection was fit for royalty.

Umar Sayeed

Lauded heavily for his bridals, Sayeed couldn’t resist delving into his signature black, cream and pink colour palette of heavily worked kameezes. He started off with his ‘Umar Sayeed Light’ line that was a showcase of printed palazzos with solid bold flowing shirts in turquoise, fuchsia and plum that could easily be deconstructed as separates for a vibrant spring wardrobe. A jumpsuit with a twisted back in monochrome with hints of yellow was spot on, but throwing in his old pieces from previous bridal collections took away from what could have been a conceptually strong collection.

Pret perfect

Shehla Chatoor

Shehla Chatoor is perhaps the only Pakistani designer to have the foresight to design her own logo and then use it liberally and creatively throughout her pieces. The designer wowed fashionistas with her uber sexy ‘Spring Equinox’ collection that was styled and presented in her signature style: sophisticated yet sexy. While her attempt to showcase her strength as a traditional eastern designer didn’t quite work, her myriad versions of jumpsuits in solids, Mughal print with metal and leather details and the long tunics/dresses cut just right to reveal a long shapely leg, nailed it.

Regal splendour

Kuki Concept

The opening video at Kuki’s show said it all: this was a collection fixated on heritage and what constitutes an heirloom. Drenched in nostalgia, this collection titled ‘Uns’ (love) was constructed entirely in heritage fabric culled from Kuki’s own family. Devoid of embellishments, this line of traditional clothing: rani coats, kaftans, jackets and sherwanis, demonstrated Kuki’s prowess in terms of construction and his ability to create regalia out of an ancient fabric.

Next

Jeans, rolled up trousers, checked shirts, jumpsuit, printed tops and an array of formal men’s suits accessorised with a range of handbags, shoes and hats for your regular Joe and Jane were presented as options for a grueling summer.

Indeed it was the child models, the little girl with a hat, a boy clutching a skateboard, or the cool young stud with aviators who were the highlight of the show. This collection was fashion at its most relevant best and clothing that you could go straight from the show and get off the racks; which is precisely what high street fashion is all about.

Fashion faux pas

Designers that didn’t make a mark were Sanam Agha, Ayesha Hashwani, Pinx, Arsalan Yahseer, Ayesha-Somaya and Tayyab Bombal. While Agha and Hashwani aren’t new to the game, their aesthetics need to be evolved to a point where they can present something unique along with their own sense of design. The rest still need guidance on getting the basics of design and tailoring right.

Published in The Express Tribune, April 10th, 2012.

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Reader Comments (10)

  • ALi
    Apr 10, 2012 - 12:47AM

    fruits of liberalism!!! heights of Shamelessness!

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  • saleem
    Apr 10, 2012 - 2:13AM

    congrats to all people of Pakistan for the fresh air of fashion shows. Uptil now all we had was shameful alim on lines

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  • Abdul
    Apr 10, 2012 - 2:43AM

    Siachin tragedy, 6killed in Quetta , Energy crisis, Lyari Killings and then SMILING face of Pakistan Fashion week , its like Pakistani fashion week is laughing at rest of Pakistan

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  • Minto
    Apr 10, 2012 - 2:43AM

    I am up for women’s education, her right to work, her right to divorce, her right to claim equal wage etc, but when did women’s emancipation meant wearing revealing attire and exhibition of flesh?

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  • Unbiased
    Apr 10, 2012 - 6:09AM

    It’s not the liberals. ET is just serving the Indian interests in Pakistan.

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  • Kazim
    Apr 10, 2012 - 11:39AM

    from which angle does this look like the Islamic Republic of Pakistan? Yes, women have the right and freedom in this country but to this extent? These fashion shows are nothing but a way to pollute the mind of young adults.

    Fashion shows and designer dresses can be conducted in a more COVERED way if these people wanted

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  • Umer
    Apr 10, 2012 - 5:39PM

    Till when will be taking pride in these mediocre shows and designs. The world has moved on to far more creative developments and innovations but we are happy in our humble cocoon!

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  • Apr 10, 2012 - 6:03PM

    Amazment troops preavaled in the fashion beauty of pakistan…

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  • Nosherwan Shahid Shaikh
    Apr 10, 2012 - 9:18PM

    Only if these women knew the comforts of education would they have set up schools instead!

    The amount of money spent could have made schools where children could have been taught over the years instead this where a week of flamboyant fashion would come to an end.

    Imagine the fruits of education over this.

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  • maheen
    Apr 10, 2012 - 10:16PM

    @ kazim: mohd. ali jinnah didn’t found the nation to be the ‘Islamic Republic of Pakistan’. that happened decades later. always a highly fashionable man himself i’m sure the Father of our nation would approve of some fashion making its way into a currently bleak nation. saddened as i am by the recent events in pakistan, i am glad some glimmer of creativity and imagination perseveres in a nation – some of who’s own residents seem hell-bent on chasing any happiness out of in a misguided fit of self-righteousness.

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