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Letter from Paris
“Every city has a sex and an age which have nothing to do with demography. Rome is feminine. So is Odessa. London is...
(From left to right) The Parisian cafe is an essential part of resident and traveller’s life, as are the sights and sounds, be it of carousels, churches or fresh flowers. A poster celebrates Pak-French ties. A sunset reminds us of the city’s beauty.
“Every city has a sex and an age which have nothing to do with demography. Rome is feminine. So is Odessa. London is a teenager, an urchin, and, in this, hasn’t changed since the time of Dickens. Paris, I believe, is a man in his twenties in love with an older woman.” — John Berger
Strolling hand in hand along the banks of the Seine, in parks, sprawled on chairs and benches, lying on the grass, wrapped tightly around each other, there are beaming couples everywhere. Paris wears its heart on its sleeve, and it’s arresting.
May in Paris: cherry blossoms in bloom, holiday tables under the sun, joie de vivre in the air. Paris in spring is a veritable feast for the senses. As the brutish winter makes way for the sun’s benign presence, Paris is a city in love.
Undoubtedly the fashion capital of the world, it is the epitome of style and taste. Like a butterfly emerging from a cocoon, the layers of onerous winter ensembles are being shed. Winter is black, grey, fawn, navy blue and beige, but spring boasts a plethora of colours. Fuschia, electric blue, cherry red, buttercup yellow, citrus orange, oyster pearl, Cadbury purple, powder blue— a head-turning parade of colour. Little wonder then, that sitting at cafés and people watching is a national pasttime.
The advertisements for Parisian marriage and dating agencies couldn’t be more different from Pakistani ads for fair and lovely brides with fat dowries. One fascinating ad states matter of factly, “Your ideal wife should be a blonde, sophisticated beauty, a flexible world citizen, childless and wealthy, incredibly adaptable, gentle and disciplined, of enticing femininity, speaking five languages, managing any public event, an excellent skier and horse rider, golfer, appears as 38 at age 50, slender 5’7”, presenting elegance, superb taste and instant readiness for new ventures… then she will enthuse you!” Another ad: “Very beautiful, radiant, slender, blonde lady, outgoing and sweet, multilingual, living in the south of France. Wishes to find a male companion who is well read, between 50 and 75 years old, to enjoy the pleasures of life such as travelling, opera, theatre, fine dining and dancing.”
Paris assails your senses, but one can have a panic attack lost in the babble of French. The beautiful language flows seamlessly but it makes the foreigner feel like a dullard. Mark Twain expressed his exasperation with Parisians in these words: “The Parisian travels but little, he knows no language but his own, reads no literature but his own, and consequently he is pretty narrow and pretty self-sufficient. However, let us not be too sweeping; there are Frenchmen who know languages not their own: these are the waiters. Among the rest, they know English; that is… they can speak it, but can’t understand it. They easily make themselves understood, but it is next to impossible to word an English sentence in such a way as to enable them to comprehend it. They think they comprehend it; they pretend they do; but they don’t.”
Things haven’t changed all that much since Mark Twain was here. Asking anyone at random if they speak English almost always elicits a “NO!” or a Gallic shrug of the shoulders. The French take pride in their language and expect newcomers to learn it with the correct pronunciation. It is sobering to compare their reverence for their mother tongue to the nonchalant attitude Pakistanis have for Urdu.
According to a recent survey, Paris is the most expensive city in the world. The windows of Paris can torment the newcomer. One cannot help gaping at the irresistible boutiques and restaurants whose prices touch the sky. For people who have tastes that far exceed their means, Paris can be frustrating. Gradually, one realises Paris is filled with affordable decadence — you just need to know where to find it. The French appreciate the value of the petit plaisir — the tiny luxury that all French people allow themselves from time to time. The principle of the petit plaisir is that we should treat ourselves to mini-extravagances once in a while.
It’s a philosophy which is in vogue in France, the culinary connoisseur’s paradise, where the food is so beautifully presented that it seems a crime to actually eat it. Paris is a veritable celebration of butter, baguettes, sugar, cream, chocolates, cheese, confectionary et al. But what is most striking is the almost absence of obesity, despite the rich diet. No spare tyres on display here. The key factor is moderation. The French do eat, and richly. But they choose their pleasures wisely, and savour them.
France has the largest Muslim population in Europe, and Islam is the second largest religion in the country. The French are known for taking pride in their secular culture. President Nicolas Sarkozy has stated, “The burqa is not a religious sign, it is a sign of the subjugation, of the submission of women…it will not be welcome on our territory.” A parliamentary panel has recommended that the burqa be banned in all public spaces such as schools and hospitals, but does not make it illegal to wear one on the streets or in “private buildings.” But the president has decided to go beyond the preference of many conservative lawmakers and instead he has has opted for an outright interdiction anywhere in public.
The burqa is a garment which has become synonymous with women’s oppression in Islam, but what does banning it have to do with the liberation of Muslim women? It is time for France to address its larger issue of Muslim integration. Banning the burqa is not going to force Muslim women to wear tank tops and voila, suddenly become more French.
However, the burqa ban has the unexpected support of Hassen Chalghoumi, a French imam. He agreed that France should not grant citizenship to immigrant women who cover their faces. “Having French nationality means wanting to take part in society. But with a bit of cloth over their faces, what can these women share with us? If they want to wear the veil, they can go to a country where it’s the tradition, like Saudi Arabia.”
An elderly French lady once asked me which country I was from. When I said “Pakistan” she was so startled that she nearly tripped. Then she paused and said firmly, “Well, it’s better that you are in France than over there!”
There is a small Pakistani community here which is happy to have the opportunity to make a life for itself in Europe, but is troubled by the constant barrage of bad news from home. There are so many plus points about Pakistan which are hardly ever brought up.
One way to bridge boundaries is through music. Pakistan’s Ustaad Faiz Ali Faiz and France’s Titi Robin proved that music is a universal language when they performed recently in Paris. Their outstanding jugalbandi brought the house down. The French were swaying to the strains of Mast Qalander and Ya Ali. Brazilian drums, Spanish guitar, accordion, gumbass, rhubab, tabla, dhol and harmonium blended harmoniously with Ustad Faiz’s rich voice. Amidst the constant requests for encores, it was a pleasure to see what great ambassadors our artistes are. Now the Pakistan Festival is being held under the auspices of the Alliance Francaise which will feature Zeb and Haniya and the Mekaal Hassan Band. East is East and West is West and never the twain shall meet? Monsieur Mark Twain, one way of bridging boundaries and removing misperceptions is through art and culture.
Vive la France et Pakistan!
Reader Comments (47)
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Well written and interesting article.Recommend
Nice article. Makes me want to visit Paris.Recommend
Very well written. Really enjoyed reading your article.Recommend
very good read ..Recommend
Thoroughly enjoyed it. Would love to read more about Paris!Recommend
Wah, wah…Bahut Khoob
Now if only u can concentrate on writing a book as u had promised.Recommend
Excellent writing, truly feel as if I have been to Paris and back. Well done Maheen Usmani.Recommend
I feel like I am almost standing in the streets of Paris.
Bien dit & bonne chance
au revoirRecommend
having spent more than 7 years in Paris, I can testify that no travelogue hitherto has captured the spirit of the city so beautifully as this one.Recommend
very evocative, romantic yet rooted in reality. loved it.Recommend
For the first time I have read an article so well written !! ;for good humor and excellent prose Maheen gets an ‘A ‘::looking forward to more fun reading this wonderful style of narration !! well done !!Recommend
Superbd writting! Paris was all that beautiful, Its all coming back!Like u mentioned the adds in the papers, I was amazed to fined the most beautiful and stylished women over there of 30 plus with 65 & plus men hanging out or dinning at the most poshed resturant or side cafes at Champs Elysss… I looked hideious infront of those ladies, Truely i was complexed by their style and looks and the way they were carrying themselves!Recommend
Oh what a beautifully written piece.Maheen did wonderful depiction of Paris,about which one keeps on listening anecdote after anecdote.Of course one likes to see Paris,but most expensive city tag is scaring as well.As we say ‘Jin Lahore nahin Dekhya,O’ Jammia ie nahin’,perhaps this goes with Paris as well, at least from Maheen’s account.Recommend
Kudos to your simply beautiful style of writing. It is an incredibly well written article which flows along perfectly. Your contents and the theme of the article are a joy to read and you have also managed to balance out the pros and cons of Paris as well as the comparisons of France and Pakistan in a very positve manner. You’ve described the city of Paris in such a way that one feels one is actually in the city and is taken on a tour by a Maheen Usmani. Hope to read more of you on a regular basis.Recommend
I would definitely appreciate because it seems a hard work to look up into this as a matterRecommend
Maheen,
Loved how your article spanned a myriad of topics from the chicness of the French to their idiosyncratic marriage proposal ads, to music and the hotly debated topic of veiling. True Paris is the chicest of cities, with the most amazing shops and cafes, but it is also a multicultural city with an inherently large Algerian and North African population who happen to be Muslim. By imposing such measures as banning the veil, the French government will be antagonising a large section of their population. This stigma of Paris being an intolerant city will not go down well with its other titles like the City for Lovers and the home of delightfully french macaroons at Fauchon (my personal favourite). Tres desole!!!Recommend
Maheen,
I could feel the pulse of the city ! Paris was never on my list of cities to visit but after reading your article, i can’t wait to go there! Hope to see more of you in print!Recommend
Maheen dear thanks so much for sharing all your inspiring creativity, particularly this arresting piece about my favorite city! While you’re right Paris assails the senses, your description of it is no less sensuous…I assume you’re loving it :)
Also love the way you tie in Mark Twain’s words to the larger theme of unlikely, unwitting cultural similarities.Recommend
Dear Maheen,
It was an absolutely thrilling piece of writing; what a description!
Though I have never been to Paris, but after reading this article I surely do want to pay a visit.
Can’t wait to read more stuff from you.Recommend
..Going through this article the one thing that comes to my mind is pakistan really needs to advertise itself efficiently to the world.Just yesterday on NDTV news programme hosted by Barkha Dutt,some very prominent media and eminent educated gentlemen from pakistan were invited and during the course of the programme a naive indian asks him whether a civil society exists in Pakistan on which the pakistan gentleman very politely invited him to Pak so that he can see a civil society as well a very civilised community.things will go very much out of hand if pak waits for things to happen rather than wait for it to happen.they have to show the world the progressive,secular side of pakistan which is nearly 70% of their population.Rest of the aricle was interesting esp the need for the perfect pride even amongst the parisian whe there is no such thing as Perfect…..A proud nation is one that is proud of its culture,history,language and pakistan needs to know that it is ONE.Recommend
Fine article… one of the few that have been worth reading in this paper.Recommend
Beautifully written! Such a true depiction of the city. Makes me want to fly back to Europe to enjoy the city of lovers….sitting by the river Seine on a cool summers day, admiring the beautiful architecture around…..a certain calmness prevails. Also there is no doubt the French certainly know how to cook. We have had the most amazing food and the chocolate crepes are to die for.
In your article you mentioned how a French lady was surprised to hear you were from Pakistan….I wonder what your response was…..how sad is it that the country we call home produces writers like yourselves yet is only known for the negative press it receives. A few people do spoil it for the rest of us.
Look forward to reading more of your stuff….keep it coming!Recommend
Lovely article. Appealing choice of words. I liked it for the natural flow of the arguement and the structure in which you have taken up issues.
Although the article is indeed romantacising with the freshness of Paris, it was specially a sigh of relief to see you amalgamating burqa and Pakistan in the debate.
Even thou the article hints at these issues, yet i am sure to the serious reader it does toss these issues in a very well packaged article.Recommend
Good summary of the situation.Recommend
Dear Maheen
Excellent article. I really enjoyed this very well written article. I was thinking to visit Paris sometime but today finally you make my mind to visit Paris in the near future.
Muhammad Azfar AhsanRecommend
Maheen,
First time to read your article, love it so much!
Keep going and have fun in Paris!
Keep in touchRecommend
Maheen,
A fabulous account of what Paris is about and encapsulates the essence of the most beautiful and enchanting city in the worldRecommend
MAHEEN you have brought up such a delicate topic!! I read it once I read it twice, and then I close my eyes… It brings back so much of fond memories!
FRANCE-The conventional preconceptions of sensual pleasure, the vineyards of Bordeaux and Burgundy, the elaborate dishes of Dijon, the sandy expanses of the Riviera, the crisp Alpine air, philosophies of Voltaire, Sartre, Derrida; the rich literature of Hugo, Proust and Camus; the visionary art of Rodin, Monet, and Degas. How can I ever forget!
Ahhh PARIS…how do I want to remember it ;
Aside from the requisite croissant- munching, elusive smile and admiring, Cafés in the Latin quarter for afternoon strolling or sipping….anytime: Café la Flore.. a cup of tea on the terrace or inside, a nice walk on Saturday afternoon, picking up cheeses, slippers, and other fine foods..Beautiful people, stunning art, excellent clothes, romantic side streets, sitting for hours outside the café with a Le monde, listening to Edith Piaf.. La Vie en Rose… evening in Paris…
From the world’s best bistros to the hottest of HAUTE COUTURE, from the old stone of Notre Dame to the futuristic motions of the PARC DE LA VILLETTE, from the relics of the first millennium to the celebration of the second.
The famous motion picture Casablanca –I remember Humphrey Bogart saying to Ingrid Bergman “WE WILL ALWAYS HAVE PARIS” and there comes the eternal song “As Time Goes By”…
You wrote such a fantastic article Maheen. Je l’adore!! We want to see more of your creative writings! It was like a breath of fresh air. I could smell the fragrance of evening in Paris! BRAVO!!Recommend
I go to Paris, I go to London, I go to Rome, and I always say, ‘There’s no place like Isloo. It’s the most exciting city in the world now. That’s the way it is. That’s it.Recommend
Maheen lovely article, thank you very much for share with us! i never been in Paris, though heard, read and saw documentaries about this fabulous city.
I really like the way you narrate about beauty of Paris then politely netted story with current and very delicate topic of ban full veil or Burqa in public places, that is hot topic n focal point to Chang legislation about ban Islamic veil or Burqa in European countries. Belgium even already passed such legislation and France on verge to do similar.
please write regularly, we need sincere people like you to portray softer image of Pakistan n Pakistanis.
cheers :)Recommend
A very well written article.French are really proud of there language & are very particular about their siesta.I like their attitude to life.The article reveals how their dating & marriage attitudes are so similar to ours.Well some things dont change.Recommend
A very well written & lucid expositon of life & attitude of parisians.we look forward to more such articles by the author.Recommend
it’s well written and all….
what’s beautiful about the city is is freedom I’ve been in Paris for a week and I love The freedom here. And although it’s not such a good thing but I’m really happy people don’t give a damn about you :) it’s good that sometime people just ignore you and let you be even if you’re kissing in the metro ! :)Recommend
Maheen you write so well, so fluent and effortless.Makes me want to visit Paris again. We went when I was 14. It was bastille day and the fireworks at the eiffel tower were magnificent. I was embarrassed by the public show of affection by couples on the metro:)The louvre was beautiful and I was mesmerized by mona lisa. It’s a magical place and can’t wait to visit againRecommend
just goes to show that at heart you are a true Parisian…take the old adage of ‘make love,not war’ and run with it. magnifique!!Recommend
Brilliant piece of writing. Experienced the taste n sounds as I read through it. You have captured the true essence of the city in your choice of words. Loved the flow, from the less serious to the serious. Please keep writing, the world needs writers like yourself who can amuse and yet strike a homerun. Also enjoyed Razee’s feedback.
Keep it coming……Recommend
Great job Maheen. Beautifully written.
Brought back lovely chidhood memories of vacationing in Paris with my parents and siblings 18 yrs ago. Makes me want to visit Paris again.
Well done. Looking forward to more articles from you.Recommend
Great article Maheen. I have always liked cities with a river but the Seine is truly magical. You are spot on about the Parisian culture of sitting in a cafe and watching the world go by. It’s one of my favourite things to do when I am in Paris!Recommend
I am avid reader of the American travel magazine Travel and Leisure but I never read anything so beautiful and well written about Paris. Hats off to you Maheen! The few french words were translated to me by my daughter who speaks fluent french!!! Look forward to more articles by Maheen.SamanRecommend
fantastic article – eloquent and frank.Recommend
Muslim culture in Paris – insightful, in depth and meaningful. Great to see a different perspective on Paris.Recommend
Hello
It seeems Paris has egulfed you with it’s beaauty and diversity. How very interestigly intertwined witth issues!!!!Flowy and beautiful.
Have a great time!! TazeenRecommend
__Very well written Maheen! Such mastery of words, the natural ease with which you have described the city , and the tongue-in-cheek touching upon very pertinent issues , makes this write up a joy to read.Keep it up! Proud of you!Recommend
Cool article .. You almost covered everything in this article about Paris. u really seem to be in awe of her beauty & dynamic culture. well written & thanks for taking me away from Pakistan a bit :)) . Only if French Tourism Authority could see you promoting their capital :))Recommend
maheen, it was such a pleasure to read your article! your descriptive account of paris was refreshing and so charming. really liked it!Recommend
This is an absolutely fantastic article, Maheen. Very nicely written indeed. Looking forward to reading more of your work!Recommend
what a superb article maheen.and such easy reading beautifully phrased with elegant simplicity.you have caught the true flavour of paris. well done and please continue writing as creatively as is yiour styleRecommend