Pomme, CEO of Phenomena Event Design Company, says she believes in the ‘less is more’ equation.

“I may only do three to four fashion and art shows a year but I will base it on quality rather than quantity,” she says. “It is more of a passion. I’d rather pick and choose than make a lot of money doing loads of shows.”

What made you decide to begin your own company? How would you describe Phenomena and what is the significance of the name?

After being a part of the fashion, art and entertainment industries for the last 25 years, it was a natural transition to formalise my work into a company. Phenomena was launched in December 2010 and timing-wise, it was perfect because there was an explosion of fashion and art. I felt I could pick up and start off again. It was a great way to announce, “I’m back and I’m here to create phenomena”.

The name Phenomena reflects the literal meaning of the word; an art design company that showcases ‘happenings’ that appeal to and arouse the senses.

What do you think is the singular quality you bring to events that sets you apart from other event managers?

I think it is a mix of personalised service, attention-to-detail and a certain element of out-of-the-box uniqueness either in the theme or the implementation. In just over a year now, we’ve developed a reputation of style which people know they can only get from Phenomena.

What have been some of Phenomena’s standout events?

I have enjoyed doing all Phenomena events as I only take on what I like, so only then am I able to fully devote my time and ideas. As we are only over a year old, my favourite events have been the ‘Reconstruction’ travelling fashion exhibition in collaboration with the British Council with great fashion names like Dame Vivienne Westwood and Sir Paul Smith; event-managing the Oxford University Press Book Launch and meet-up with authors/editors Alex van Linschoten and Felix Kuehn and Islamabad Fashion Week’11 and IFW’12.

The art direction of the Lady Dufferin Art Mural was another memorable event as well as organising the exclusive Sindh Club garden parties; the Organic Beauty presentation in association with Clarins and of course all of Amin (Gulgee)’s events with the most recent one being Riwhyti — One Night Stand.

How do you balance work with family life and socialising?

It is hard and sometimes, I do wish I could just do nothing and sleep all day and be a ‘desperate housewife’ but there is a satisfaction in creating pleasure and joy for others. The key is organisation; you have to balance your home and work. My work is not regimented from 9am to 5pm, but I’m still passionate about being a mom. My home and kids are always my top priority. How I manage the rest is of course a ‘state secret’. I guess it is perfecting the art of multi-tasking!

Future projects for Phenomena

In store for next season, Phenomena will be working on the Peacock Fashion Parade in association with the Peacock Lounge, Men’s Fashion Week, artist Tabinda Chinoys’ book launch, a Women’s Entrepreneur Gala Night.

Published in The Express Tribune, February 23^rd, 2013.

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Misha’s pre-Fall 2012 capsule collection was launched at the spacious, still-under-renovation Misha Lakhani boutique on the buzzing E-Street that has become a home to popular eateries. Dressed in a long digital printed dress herself, the wide-eyed 29-year-old said that her aesthetic sense is influenced by her mother’s experimental tastes but equally buoyed by her father’s innate classicism. Other inspirations could be culled by perusing Misha’s mood-board available for view on the designer’s official Facebook page: Former Vogue Paris editor Carine Roitfeld fashioned as the eccentric Marchesa Luisa Casati and shot by Karl Lagerfeld; John Galliano’s flapper looks for Christian Dior Fall 2009; an old tea-coloured vintage photograph of the Maharani Rajmata Gayatri Devi of Jaipur; fern and floral-embellished Mogul awnings; a pre-Raphaelite painting of a scarlet-dressed Salome gazing dispassionately at the beheaded face of John the Baptist; an independent cross-armed woman striding confidently in a long navy pea-coat, billowing slit skirt and serious dominatrix heels; details of a matador’s paseo bolero and a striking multi-textured and dazzling-hued lizard.

The theme of the debut collection was colonial transgression, modernising the ebullience of old India by juxtaposing it with the context of well-travelled international élan. Misha used a myriad of traditional embroidery techniques, including resham, vasli, gota, marori and copper-based tilla — which feels has “a more worn-in, old world feel” — fused with a medley of fabrics like flowing georgettes and chiffons; sheer satins, sumptuous velvet and eye-catching karandi in a kaleidoscope of fall hues such as ivory melding into citron, muted olive, rust, burnt sienna and rich Bordeaux. Stand-outs included an ivory Grecian one shoulder painterly abstract digital-printed belted sheath dress with delicate gold fern embroidery; a traditional teal velvet long shirt with a sheer net overlay embellished with gota and zardosi but modernised with risqué shredded edges; a short shirt worn with olive-gold satin palazzos and a relaxed cardigan; an ivory pleated tunic with silver detailing and modern caterpillar cuffs worn with a long skirt and finally the fuchsia high-waist pants worn with a simple ivory slip, a gota and resham-flourished long opera coat offset by a thin wisp of a luxury belt.

“For me, details speak volumes,” Misha said intently, explaining that she takes great pains to ensure that even the inside of her outfits are imbued with special lining in the same way that kundan jewellery is dovetailed with a corresponding polki outer-face.

The 14-piece capsule collection was showcased to the vibrant selection of DJs Herbie and Munizeh and a roster of young models that almost mirrored the young, pretty socialite friends who make up part of Misha’s clientele and support system. The girls walked onto a space in the atelier and stood momentarily on blocks to showcase the stunningly fresh collection. Eschewing jewellery — even shoes — and touched by light make-up and loose soignée hairstyles, the models had a fresh je ne sais quoi insouciance about them, as if they had just returned from an evening out and were lounging languorously in their spacious private cocoons, having stripped off their accouterments. “I wanted minimalist styling to reflect an air of just chilling out, being oneself and being effortlessly chic,” Misha said.

Amongst those wearing the Misha Lakhani label was Iman Pasha, senior stylist of women’s wear at Bloomingdale’s, Dubai who wore a bespoke soft gold digital printed one shoulder backless sheath dress and opined: “The piece I wore to the launch was ultimately versatile.”

“I could wear it to a wedding in Pakistan or a black-tie event or even a wedding abroad,” Iman enthused. “Misha is one of the only designers in Pakistan whose work meets international standards in terms of aesthetics, quality and professionalism but which also effortlessly embraces and merges with desi craftsmanship.”

“There was a lot of variety in the collection; something for everyone, whether for someone who wants to bare a little bit of skin or someone a little more conservative. There was a great cross-mix of versatile separates in fun bright colours and cuts which one might go to look for in India, but which one doesn’t ordinarily find in Pakistan.”

Like all fledgling supernova designers on the rise, Misha has not been immune to a spot of industry gossip. Prior to the launch, one of Misha’s “friends” had tweeted hyperbolically on Twitter that Misha was attempting to lure away Sana Safinaz’s production manager and that a “bidding war” had ensued. Misha’s diplomatic riposte is that she had indeed placed an advertisement in the paper and many kaarigars had applied, as they are typically wont to do, including Sana Safinaz’s production manager, which is beyond her control, adding that absolutely no bidding war took place and that the former S&S production manager was ultimately hired.

Controversy or no controversy, Misha’s quietly stunning debut collection heralds the advent of a designer in touch with her social milieu and the requirements of the modern woman who appreciates the charm of traditional old world techniques effortlessly dovetailed with contemporary whimsy.

Journey

After studying Broadcast Journalism at Columbia University, Misha enjoyed a stint at American magazine Condé Nast Traveler before undertaking an eight-month course at Central Saint Martins in basic pattern-making, pattern-cutting, draping and evening wear. She went on to do a five-month internship with Bunto Kazmi, the doyenne of old world bridal couture. The exposure to these polar galaxies is reflected in Misha’s easy transitional sartorial aesthetic: palpably time-honoured embellishments and textures juxtaposed onto often refreshingly unexpected contemporary cuts and silhouettes. There is a sense of a relaxed and timeless elegance in which the designer has struck a covetable balance between tradition and modernity, while challenging the Misha Lakhani woman to delve into her own innate personal style and mix pieces, using traditional separates in a contemporary way. “I like using opposites that complement one another in the form of elegant separates that transition effortlessly from day to night,” Misha says, adding that she believes that old is gold but is also a champion for modern silhouettes. “I like to create traditional pieces but posit them in a contemporary way so that they are versatile and whimsical. I encourage my clientele to experiment and use separates in a manner in which they want to; in essence to be playful.” Misha explains that she became a fashion designer because she could rarely find what she coveted. “I was often frustrated that my personal wardrobe consisted of pieces that I could only wear to a wedding but not to a private dinner and vice versa. In creating my collection, I wanted to bridge that gap. I wanted to render individual pieces more mileage in terms of wearability. Versatility is key for me,” Misha asserts. 

Style Icon

Saira Lakhani looked stylish in a peach pink shirt with matching linen pants that she created herself. “Misha’s collection is a breath of fresh air,” she said. “Very nice and very original.”

Spotted at the event was leading fashion industry figure Bunto Kazmi, who stayed true to her personal classic style of a simple kurta played up with a printed scarf and a string of pearls. “The collection was fresh, innovative and reflected Misha’s creative sensibility,” she said.

Take a closer look at some of her ensembles here.

Misha Lakhani is a close relative of The Express Tribune publisher

Published in The Express Tribune, September 1^st, 2012.

Ask most guys what they like to see on a woman, and they’ll probably joke: “Nothing!” But men are known to be the ‘visual gender’ and not only do they notice what women are wearing but also draw conclusions about you from how you dress.

I think most men develop a life-long liking for a certain type of dressing in a woman after a seismically sartorial moment in their adolescence. It could be a boy who watched his mother apply scarlet lipstick and cat eyes in the 60s, or a teenager who caught a glimpse of a saree-clad siren.

While I may prefer women in no-frills undies because they reveal a confident woman who knows how to let her body speak for itself (think Jennifer Aniston , Gisele and Kate Moss), some of my more testosterone-driven amigos salivate over Victoria’s Secret lingerie replete with frou-frou paraphernalia, towering heels and mini-dresses. Every man is different, and so are his preferences.

Then what is it that men actually want to see women wearing? While women are inclined to cover up what they perceive as their less-than-perfect bodies, men don’t see women nearly as critically. Women may see a tummy and thighs they wish were firmer, but a man will see a woman that he’s crazy about!

Apart from speaking to some high profile male designers and fashion industry wallahs, The Express Tribune also polled about a dozen men aged between 22 and 55.

Unsurprisingly, all the men questioned had one thing in common — their fondness for clothing that accentuates the female shape, lines which complement the contours of a woman’s frame, revealing to the eye a truly feminine form.

What men like to see women wearing

• ‘Fitted’ was a word generously used — with pencil skirts, tight jeans and body hugging dresses all favourites. Men like to see that there is a body under there, even if it’s not perfect. It all goes back to playing up one’s assets.
• Belted dresses and jumpsuits were also popular choices, while churidaar pajamas and tunics nipped at the waist were deemed appealing for the workplace.
• All the men agreed that the classic black dress — albeit fitted — was a good choice.
• Casual wear favourites were again figure-hugging with skinny jeans being popular — but only if they were coupled with heels or knee-high boots.
• Simple vests were also a hit, while tops with necklines that reveal the décolletage were favoured — especially strapless, bandeau numbers V-necks.
• Short skirts were also, unsurprisingly, a crowd pleaser.
• Some men cited seductive underwear as a party-pleaser. Some of the married men felt that the comforts of a long-term relationship had lulled their partners into giving up their lacy push-up bras for the comfort and support of stodgy undies. So go out and buy some fun lingerie and get a little gussied up every now and then; no one has to see it but your partner in the privacy of your own home.
• I would add a smile to the equation. There’s nothing attractive about a scowling sourpuss, even if she is wearing a short skirt, a plunging neckline and high heels.
• The footwear of choice was the high-heeled court shoe. Heels create height and, more importantly, a flattering wiggle to a woman’s walk. Toe shapes were a sensitive subject with the panel. Many of the men questioned were not in favour of the dangerously pointy stiletto-type shoe nor did they share any fondness for the round-toe shape of seasons past. A compromise between the two — which, in the fashion world, is regarded as the ‘almond’ toe — was favoured.
• As far as jewellery goes, there were some clear favourites. Some men said they liked the wedding ring on their wives’ fingers, some of which matched their own. Artistic silver ankle bracelets or anklets were commonly considered sexy as were hoop earrings and delicate diametre necklaces of the type that sit very close to the top of the chest or bottom of the neck and are embellished with stones.

What men don’t want women to wear

• Those massive androgynous flip flops with toe wells and the oddly popular Gladiator sandals modeled after the ones worn by Biblical heroes.
• Clothing that got the big ‘no no’ from our panel included smocks and tunics, anything that smacks of a muumuu and, in general, any long, unconstructed tent-like garment that hides, camouflages, or shrouds, which many men thought made a woman look pregnant.
• Baggy, androgynous trousers and denim were considered too masculine in many cases.
• Capri-pants looked stupid in a mistakenly shrunk- in-the-wash way.
• Oversized Jackie O shades were considered “ridiculous.”
• Wearing too much makeup was cited as a huge mistake. We all know that woman who cakes it on —smoky eyes, red lips and bronzer all at the same time. And we all know what we think of her! A little bit of make-up goes a long way. Sure, even out the skin tone and use a little under-eye concealer, but really to cover your face in paint just seems unreasonable. No man I’ve ever met would prefer a woman with a tonne of make-up. In fact, many say women are at their most attractive when they’re a bit undone.

• In my mind, logo overload screams: “Let’s go shopping!” Many women carry their LV totes, Hermès Birkins or Chanel chain-bags like part of their anatomy. But there is nothing less appealing than having an oversized designer name splayed across your chest or hooked pretentiously on your arm. Men interpret a woman’s need to announce the ‘fabulousness’ of her stuff as “insecurity or plain ugly shallowness”. “If labels are a woman’s priority, she’s completely lost me,” says Aamir, 22. “When I notice designer tags on a woman, I personally worry about my credit card balance should we actually get together. If the only gift I can afford from her favourite label is a key chain, her birthday isn’t going to be any fun for either of us.”
• Most men believe that sky-high heels suggest a woman is “high-maintenance”.  Women tell me that stilettos make them feel powerful and emboldened. But when you teeter on your tiptoes with only a thin six-inch bar to balance on, it begs the question: How much fun can you be having standing in one place looking, yes, va-va-voom — but precariously balanced? Tariq, 29, agrees: “The entire time my wife is walking, I’m thinking: Is she going to twist her ankle, and am I going to have to spend all night with her in the emergency room?”
• Revealing clothes announce to me that a woman might wear sequin capris to my dadi’s funeral! Don’t get me wrong, I find sexy clothes appealing — but the milieu and context is all-important. If a prospective date dresses in a Pampers-sized mini for a GT with my work colleagues, I would wonder about her judgment and imagine myself needing to cover her up at a prospective Eid dinner with my family. Yes, that vamp in the Guess ads looks hot in her cropped cowboy shirt and super-tight jeans. But she also looks like she might run off with the photographer!
• Red lipstick signals a woman who is self-assured and empowered. Red lips are a sign of strength, prowess and assertion. Consider Jean Harlow’s red pout in the 1930s, Veronica Lake’s in the 1940s and Marilyn Monroe’s in the 1950s. None of these actresses was known for playing the girlish ingénue. They were women with overtly feminine power. They were knowing. Dressing your lips in red draws people’s attention to you, especially your mouth, and subsequently, the words that come out of it.

“Clothes say a lot about a woman’s exposure, lifestyle and confidence. The way she wears her hair and make-up says a lot about her sense of style and sophistication. Her choice of fragrance and pair of heels say a lot about her personality and taste,” said Usman Dittu, womenswear designer. “These days, everyone has a ‘designer bag’, original or fake — so big deal!”

“I love to see women wearing blazer suits and a button-down shirt. I think there’s just something extremely hot about a woman who knows how to carry ‘power dressing’ in a feminine way,” said Munib Nawaz, menswear designer. “I also like to see a woman wearing a man’s dress shirt or T-shirt. The clothes that I like to see women wearing represent power, authority, and elegance, yet still maintain an air of femininity and seduction. These women are subtle in their moves and extremely smart. They know how to command any situation or milieu without being in your face.”

“I like to see women in high heels but a maximum of 4 inches; anything over that looks weird!” said Arsalan Iqbal of Arsalan & Yahseer, fashion designer. “Backless and sleeveless clothes are adventurous options, but I prefer an elegant silhouette with minimalist design. A perfect form-fitted gown is a big turn-on for me. I hate women in jumpsuits although they are on-trend these days! Minimal make-up with lighter shades of lipstick and a bit of contouring does it for me. Excessive foundation and overly experimental hairstyles on women are major turnoffs. Less is more!”

In conclusion, when I like a woman I like every inch of her. I also want her to like herself. So if she wears a cluster of fabric that obscures her shape, I worry that she may be ashamed of herself — her beautiful, natural, perfectly flawed self. Former Vogue Paris editor Carine Roitfeld has said that she hates perfection and, when casting for fashion editorials always looked for models with some flaw. Twenty-two year-old Aamir is with me on this one as well.

“The most beautiful thing about a woman is her body, its silhouette and lines,” he says. “Don’t put a sack over them!” Having said that, one woman can wear a slinky halter-dress and look self-conscious in it, and another can totally rock a voluminous trapeze dress like it’s her second skin.

At the end of the day, a woman is going to look her best in something she feels good in, which is the most important point of all: If you’re comfortable in your skin, in your body, you’re on a winning streak. Any messages I or any man might read into your clothes can be superseded by a smile, an inner glow, a canny coolness and poise that says, “I don’t really care what you think, Zurain, I love this outfit.” Chances are then, I probably will as well…

A fashion journalist and social commentator who has contributed to various international publications including The Washington Times (Style Section), Harper’s Bazaar and The Seattle Times.

Published in The Express Tribune, Ms T, August 19^th, 2012. 

Anam Ahmad

Age: 17

Education: Froebels International School

Hometown: Islamabad

Height: 5’10”

Personal Best Facial Feature: Lips

Personal Best Body Feature: Hands and Feet

Agency: Cats Modelling Agency

I first met Anam when I helped coordinate the Second Edition of Islamabad Fashion Week. She had already been discovered by a local Isloo photographer and sent to audition for Tariq Amin who was conducting a Model Search for the First Edition of Islamabad Fashion Week in which she took part in January 2011. Anam’s first modelling job was a photo-shoot for bags and coats. “The location of the shoot was a multi-millionaire’s home,” Anam reminisces. “The experience was great and it all just came to me naturally with no instructions needed.” Later Anam modelled for Ammar Belal, BNS Couture and Umar Sayeed and has appeared in magazines such as Libas, SHE, GT, Brides & You and Sunday Plus.

Photographers She’s Worked With: Tapu Javeri, Fayyaz Ahmed, Mohammad Osman Zia among others.

Lawn Campaigns:  Anam says she has been offered several lawn campaigns including Al-Karam and Gul Ahmed but never got a chance to avail them.

TV Commercials:  “I haven’t appeared in any yet, but I plan on availing offers within this year Inshallah.”

Fashion Shows/Fashion Weeks: The First and Second Edition of Islamabad Fashion Week in 2011 and 2012.

Acting or Fashion: “I think I will stick to fashion. Modelling has a certain glamour which acting doesn’t.”

TV Plays or Serials: Anam says she is not interested in acting.

Favourite Make-up Artist:  Anam cites Khawar Riaz, because she says that out of all the make-up artists she’s gotten her make-up done by, he has best understood her face. “He did make-up according to my facial features, which suited me.” Anam adds that she is really not the sort of person to visit salons even for frequent trimming. “Recently, Reema’s official hairstylist chopped off a great amount of my hair.”

Favourite Model(s): Anam picks Cybil and adds that she feels that Cybil is extremely under-rated; comes out the best in print shoots; is naturally beautiful; well spoken and has a certain elegance and poise on the ramp.

Fitness Regime: None at all.

Favourite Pakistani or International Idol:

“In the fashion industry I look up to Freiha Altaf,” Anam says. “Throughout my brief career I have never seen anyone as professional as her. She’s very hard-working and wants to bring a change in Pakistan and I applaud her for that.”

Current Projects: Anam was recently selected as a contestant for the recent Veet Miss Supermodel reality TV show which she has a very good chance of winning. “I have many projects piled up. Hopefully, I will be able to avail the offers in Karachi and Lahore. I am looking forward to the upcoming Veet Fashion Show, campaigns and commercials.”

Five to 10 Year Game Plan: “If I get the support from my family to go on further with this modelling career, then I see myself successful and having made a successful name for myself.”

Response to being picked as an upcoming potential supermodel: “More than humbled.”

Strengths: Height, youth, pretty face, good head-to-body proportions and confidence. “I am confident and am able to carry any look I’m put into.”

Weaknesses: “I’ve been told to lose the pout and be a little more natural. That’s advice I’m following.”

Most-Like Model Precedent: Aliya Zaidi

Verdict/Advice: If Anam wants to take modelling more seriously, which she should as she has all the makings of a great supermodel, she might consider moving to Lahore or Karachi after she completes her studies and before she begins college.

Israa Shafi

Age: 24

Education: Pursuing a BBA degree in Marketing.

Hometown: Dubai/Karachi

Height: 5’ 9”

Personal Best Facial Feature: Cheekbones

Personal Best Body Feature- Israa says: “Honestly, I’m very comfortable with myself and that’s the whole point of modelling: being comfortable with how and who you are.”

Agency: Citrus Talent Management.

When she finally moved to Pakistan she thought to give modeling a shot and her first official shoot was by Humayun Memon of Amean J.’s 18% GREY for Maheen Khan’s Gulabo label for which she appeared on the cover of SHE magazine in March 2011. She has also been featured in GT and Women’s Own magazines. “I can easily say that a handful of people had a stake in encouraging me to model,” Israa says.  The Gulabo shoot brought forth other opportunities including Israa’s second shoot for Nishat Lawn shot by Amean.J. “I must say the 18% Grey team guides one really well.” Israa has also modeled for Limited Editions by Ayesha Tahir Masood and for Kehkashan Majeed.

Photographers She’s Worked With: Amean.J, Fayyaz Ahmed, Kashif Rashid, Hamayun Memon, Adeel Baadshah, Ali Khurshid, Zeeshan Haider, Mahwash Rehman and Shahbaaz & Arshad.

Lawn Campaigns: Nishat Lawn Collection 2011 Catalogue

TV Commercials: Everyday Tea Whitener shot in Dubai and Zong shot in Karachi.

Fashion Shows / Fashion Weeks: Her first runway experience was at Pantene Bridal Couture Week 2012 which she wants to be a part of again in July 2012. “You won’t see me on every ramp as I have to see who’s organizing it as I follow my own codes of decency and standards in my career as a model.”

Acting or Fashion:  “I don’t want to restrict myself to just modeling as I’m creatively inquisitive. I have done things on the side such as hosting a morning show but now my focus is just on modeling and acting.”

TV Plays/Serials: Israa got her first break in Angeline Malik’s ‘Kitni Girhein Baaki Hein’ for HUM TV. Her current TV project is the comedic TV serial, ‘Frequency FM109’ by Najaf Bilgrami and Adarsh Ayaz for  Express Entertainment.

Favourite Make Up Artists: Beenish Parvez, Nadya Hussain Tajammul at Bina Khan, Anam Farooq at Tariq Amin and Ayaz. “They are not just great make-up artists but also very pleasant people to be around and to work with.”

Fitness Regime: Israa says she can’t function without working out and works out with her eldest sister Dr. Kholod Shafi, a professional aerobics instructor and Israa’s personal trainer.” I’m completely against starving oneself.”

Favourite Model(s): Israa says she admires Iraj Manzoor, Amna Ilyas and Marvi Sarfaraz for their work and attitude.

Favourite Pakistani or International Idol: Israa says she appreciates what many Pakistani artists and designers have achieved but feels that there is no one in particular to really look up to. “But there is an upcoming fashion designer, Sana Ehtasham who is also contributing to society.”

Current Projects: Israa recently completed shooting a video and photo pictorial for a brand called Musnad in Makli as well as completing shooting for Frequency FM 109.

Five to 10 Year Game Plan: Israa says her dream is to be a socially responsible and diverse Pakistani artist. “I see myself constantly gaining knowledge and not restricting my potential to just one thing.”

Response to be selected as an upcoming potential supermodel: “I was thrilled! I look forward to interviews which will help to further explore an artist’s psyche as we shouldn’t be seen as mere objects of beauty and style.”

Strengths: Strong runway presence and admirable walk and carriage. Israa’s strengths are that she is observant and is willing to learn and experiment.”Time and practice only makes one better at everything. I believe one’s confidence is nurtured as one goes forward as does one’s body language in front of the camera.”

Weaknesses: “I don’t treat anything as a weakness. The point is to be aware of what needs to be improved.”

Most Like Model Precedent: Zhalay

Verdict/Advice: Israa needs to come across as even more self-aware, and delve into doing a variety of work; both Eastern and Western and remain focused and steady. She should also work on her expressions as they come across as one-dimensional.

Eshal Fayyaz

Age: 19

Education: A’ Levels

Hometown: Karachi

 Height: 5’ 9’’

Personal Best Facial Feature: Eyes

Personal Best Body Feature: Waist

Agency: None. “I freelance.”

I first met Eshal when she came as a last minute stand-in as a model for Karachi Fashion Week in October 2011. She was tall and attractive but could not catwalk to save her life. But she was a quick learner and self-assured. She opted out of KFW because she did not want to sign a long-term contract as she felt confident that she could get enough modeling jobs on her own and so she did embarking on a promising career that same October 2011 doing her first runway during the Montage Fashion Show in 2011, after being discovered by Syed Tamimi at Trade Development Authority Of Pakistan (TDAP) whom she considers her mentor and whom she cites as introducing her into the fashion industry.  She claims to have “worked with all the famous designers” and has appeared on the covers of low-brow magazines like Page 3, Pakistan Observer, Jewel Time and MAG, the latter three times.

Photographers She’s Worked With: Fayyaz Ahmed, Rizwan-ul- Haq, Munna Mushtaq, Shahbaz Shezi,  Mani and Atiq Siddiqui.

Lawn Campaigns: Basheer Lawn and a recent Gul Ahmed Lawn catalogue.

TV Commercials: Jazz and Bata.

Fashion Shows /Fashion Weeks: Pakistan Fashion Week, Showcase , Bridal Couture Week, and an upcoming show to be held at the Hyderabad PC.

Acting or Fashion:“I have been offered to do many plays, but I just want to focus on fashion and modeling.”

TV Plays or Serials: None.

Favourite Make- up Artist: Eshal says she can’t name just one — “I like them all as each offers a different experience.” —  and adds  that she  does not stick to one hairstylist.

Favourite Model(s): Iraj Manzoor and Nadia Hussain

Fitness Regime: Eshal says she just runs. “That is the best way to keep oneself fit.”

Favourite Pakistani or International Idol: None

Current Projects: A TVC for Pond’s and Asim Joffa Diamond Collection Jewellery billboards.

Five to 10 Year Game Plan: “I am just flourishing day by day.  I think I have worked well in both photo shoots and fashion shows and strive to continue to work hard.”

Response to being picked as an upcoming potential supermodel: “I am really thankful and feel lucky to have been chosen.”

Strengths: Height, exotic looks and versatility. “I can easily render different looks which I love to do.”

Weaknesses: Eshal has been known to be unpunctual on many occasions and kept fashion crews waiting. “But I have improved a lot and will try to always being punctual.”

Most-Like Model Precedent: Very slight intimations of Aliya “Bibi”

Verdict/Advice: Although somewhat versatile; in photographs and on the runway Eshal needs to learn to smile with both her mouth and her somewhat expressionless eyes and should select more sophisticated work. And work on that punctuality issue some more.

Arij Fatima

Age: 20

Education: AMI program (American Montessori Internationale)

Hometown: Greensboro North Carolina/Karachi

Height:  5’7”

Personal Best Facial Feature: Eyes

Personal Best Body Feature: Waist

Agency: Citrus Talent Management and Cats Modeling Agency.

Arij began modelling in 2011 and says she can’t name one person in particular but insists there were many individuals who helped her in the beginning of her career.  “But my special vote goes to Frieha Altaf at Catwalk and Fahad Hussain at Citrus Talent, Arij says. “They got the best out of me.” I met her when she had just come from the US and I found her to be an extremely ambitious and determined yet pleasant and witty young woman who wanted to make it in the entertainment industry.

Her first assignment was a Zong Commercial. “I was very camera-shy and in addition to that my Urdu accent wasn’t desi enough for the concept so I really had the jitters!”

Photographers Worked With: Arij has worked with Rizwan-ul-Haq, Fayyaz Ahmed, Ayaz Anis, Kohi Marri, and Humayun from Amean J’s studio.

Lawn Campaigns: Arij has only been modeling during one Lawn season but already bagged being the brand ambassador for Misaal Lawn. She also modeled for Deepak Perwani’s Lawn alongside Ayyan and Mona Liza.

TV Commercials: Arij seems to have a penchant for TVCs, knowing that’s where the money is. She has done ads, albeit un-glamorous ones but well-paying for Dalda, Zong, Cerelac, National Foods, Jam-e- Shireen, Orient Fridge, Eden Robe and Service. This may be a hindrance to her becoming a versatile fashion supermodel.

Fashion Shows/Fashion Weeks: Arij has only participated in one Fashion Week that being PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week in 2011 “I am not a ramp person,” she says.

Acting or Fashion: “Acting is definitely my first priority,” Arij says.

TV Plays/Serials: In a short period of time Arij has acted in myriad plays including Hazaron Saal alongside Zeba Bakhtiar, Sajid Hassan and Mohib Mirza; Sabz Qadam with Sumbul Iqbal and Hassan Ahmed; Sabz Pari Laal Kabooter with Faisal Qureshi, Mohib Mirza, Nimra Bucha, Zhalay and Sarmad Khoosat; Kis Dinn Mera Viya Hoga with Faisal Qureshi, Aijaz Aslam and Sana Askari, Shaddan with Waseem Abbas and Aimen Tariq; Marjai Tou Be Kia with Farhan Ali Agha and Eshita, and a Ramadan play with Behroze Sabzawari, Mehreen Raheal and Ahsan Khan.

Favourite Pakistani Make-up artist: “Akef Ilyas! I love his makeovers! He totally changes the person.”

Favourite Model(s): “My local favourite is Ayyan. I think she is beautiful.”

Fitness Regime: Sit-ups and Dancing.

Favourite Pakistani or International Idol: “I don’t really admire anyone from Pakistan. My idol is and has for a long time always been Leighton Meester (Blair Waldorf in the CW’s teen drama television series ‘Gossip Girl’)

Current Projects: “I am looking forward to more upcoming drama serials.”

Five to 10 Year Game Plan:  “I see myself adored and admired.”

Response to being selected as a potential upcoming supermodel : “I’m really happy because it seems like I’m beginning to get the attention I deserve. Just kidding!”

Strengths: Arij has a unique face due to her mixed origins (Pakistani and Persian). Make-up changes her drastically hence she is versatile and carries both Eastern and Western looks well.

Weaknesses: Although, she auditioned for Karachi Fashion Week in October 2011 and had a confident and elegant walk during rehearsals, she opted out for personal reasons. “I am still not comfortable on the ramp and I’m still pondering on how to get over the jitters.”

Most Like Model Precedent: Atiya Khan

Verdict/Advice: Arij does not have that fired-up passion for creative fashion modeling, opting instead for commercial work and acting. She should definitely get over her runway jitters and work on more creative fashion pictorials.

Saima Azhar

Age: : 24

Education: MSc. Physiology

Hometown: Karachi

Height: 5’6”

Personal Best Facial Feature: Lips

Personal Best Body Feature: Curves and Skin

Agency: Cats Modeling Agency.

I first saw Saima Azhar in a facebook photograph attending an event and I commented that at the time she resembled a Veena Malik type vamp. She later told me she was tickled and amused. Saima was initially discovered when she was crowned Miss Photogenic at the Veet Miss Supermodel Contest in 2011 and began modeling soon after, first in a bridal shoot for Sabs Salon. I met Saima when she came to audition for Karachi Fashion Week and although Creative Director Tariq Amin liked her, Choreographer Imran Kureishi deemed her too short and rejected her. To me she sounded supremely confident and extremely ambitious, aiming literally for the stars, much like Humaima Malik at the beginning of her career. Since that bumpy beginning Saima has modelled in shows and shoots for designers such as Iman Ahmed of Body Focus; Sofiya Naveed Lari of SNL; Vasim Asghar; Obaid Sheikh; Fahad & Deepak; Sara Gandapur and Amir Baig and appeared on the covers SHE, Women’s Own, MAG.  ILS/Sunday Times and an upcoming cover of Xpozé Monthly.

Photographers Worked With: Rizwan- ul- Haq, Rizwan Baig, Abid Saleem, Umair Bin Nisar and Yaseer Sadiq.

Lawn campaigns: Lakhany Silk Mills solo catalogue shoot; Nishat Linen; Bashir Ahmed Catalogue; Bonanza Lawn Campaign and Mausummery Lawn.

TV Commercials: None

Fashion Shows/Fashion Weeks: PFDC Bridal Week; BCW in 2011 and 2012; Alluring Fashion Week. “I have also participated in many other fashion shows and launches.”

Acting or Fashion: Saima says she is interested in acting in the near future

 TV Plays or Serials: None so far.

Favorite Make-up Artist: Saima diplomatically says that she finds them all good as each has their own unique style and fall into different categories. She last had her hair cut by Toni & Guy for a hair presentation but is now trying to grow her hair.

Favorite Model(s): None locally. “I look up to Gisele Bundchen.”

Fitness Regime: Saima jogs and goes to a gym to exercise and de-stress. “More than that I love to play games and I love swimming

Favourite Pakistani or International Idol:

“I admire anyone who works on the premise of being original.”

Current Projects: ILS cover for Sara Gandapur; SUNDAY Daily Times cover for Fahad & Deepak; Women’s Own cover for Mausummery (in negotiation) and Xpozé cover featuring Sheep, FNK Asia and Daman.

Five to 10 Year Game Plan:“A Star.”

Response to being picked as an upcoming potential supermodel:  “Happy.”

Strengths: Versatile, pretty, photogenic features; creative, confident and professional.  “I look different every time. I transform completely after make-up and in front of thecamera.”

Weaknesses: Diminutive height for runway. “My weakness used to be that I was really chubby weighing around 62 kg when I received the award a year ago.I’m now down to 45kg.”

Most-Like Model Precedent: Aaminah Haq

Verdict/Advice: The weight loss is admirable but she should maintain this size and not lose any more as her small face may shrink into oblivion in real life and away from the cameras. In addition, Saima needs to work on her camaraderie with other models and not appear so desperately aggressive to get ahead. And just be herself.

Sana Safaraz

Age: 20

Education: Bachelor in Media Sciences. Major in Advertising.

Hometown: Abu Dhabi/Karachi

Height: 5’7”

Personal Best Facial Feature: Lips

Personal Best Body Feature: Waist

Agency: Cats Modeling Agency (Catwalk.)

I first spotted Sana when she was about 14 when she accompanied her sister Khubsoorat to the offices of Indus TV Network. I would watch her strutting up and down the halls like a catwalk model and I told her that she would one day make a great model.  Lo and behold!  “I was too young and was studying when I first began modelling.  I used to work on and off occasionally but never took modelling that seriously,” Sana says. “I started working professionally on regular basis from December 2011 after completing my degree.” Sana’s earliest modeling jobs were as a teen runway model for Leisure Club and Nadya Mistry’s Lolita campaign, but she gives credit to fashion designer Shayainne Malik for discovering her when she was still quite young while looking for models for one of her shows. “I did shows with Shayainne and from then on people started approaching and recognizing me.” Since then Sana has modeled for leading fashion designers and labels and has appeared on the covers of SHE, Women’s Own, Sunday Plus, Sunday Times, Brands and Xpozé  Monthly.

Photographers She’s Worked With: Mirza Khursheed Baig; Khawar Riaz; Zeeshan Ghouri; Shamyl Khuhro;  Munna Mushtaq; Fayyaz Ahmed; Rizwan-ul-Haq; Ayaz Anis; Taimur Laghari and Shahbaz;

Lawn Campaigns: Sana has modelled eight times for Gul Ahmed, who are known to pick only the prettiest girls in their campaigns, as well as for Keyseria, Warda Lawn, Ittehad Textiles, Sabiha’s Lawn; Monsoon Lawn and twice for Bonanza Lawn.

TV Commercials: Nokia, Zong (twice),Brite Total and Bake Parlour

Fashion Shows /Fashion Weeks: Fashion Pakistan Week 2; Fashion Pakistan Week 3; PFDC Karachi (3 times); Bridal Couture Week (3 times); Bridal Couture Week (Lahore); Show Case Fashion Week; Lux Style Awards fashion show; Gul Ahmed Awards Show; HSY Lawn launch and UAE National Day Show  “I’ve participated in more than 10 fashion weeks!”

Acting or Fashion: Sana says she wants to focus on fashion, but doesn’t mind acting if she gets a good opportunity.

TV Plays or Serials: Sana’s first serial was directed by Faheem Burney for Geo where she played the role of Ayesha Omer’s daughter. She has also acted in Beyzuban by Javed Fazil for PTV and Zindagi Gulzar Hai by Sultana Siddiqui for HUM TV

Favourite Make- up Artist:  “I would say Akku Appa (Nighat Misbah of Depilex). She understands my face quite well. Apart from that she is very humble and kind. It’s easy and comfortable to work with her! For my hair I keep trying different hair stylists so don’t have a favourite in particular.”

Favourite Model(s): “I admire Cybil because she has class; she’s educated and is sensible. Internationally, I like Cindy Crawford.”

Fitness Regime: Regular gym and daily stretching exercises.

Favourite Pakistani or International Idol: “There are many people I admire, but I look up to Rizwan-ul-Haq. He is there whenever  I need him.”

Current Projects:  Gul Ahmed will be flying Sana to India for a show and she has a slew of upcoming covers for different magazines.

Five to 10 Year Game Plan: “A Supermodel, Inshallah

Response to being picked as an upcoming potential supermodel: “It feels absolutely great and I am absolutely honoured!”

Strengths: Versatile, flexible, a quick learner and  hard working  claiming to remain in the sun for hours without mood swings or lame demands shooting 20 outfits in a day. A beatifically elegant “face” and carriage on the runway.

Weaknesses: Poor PR skills and sometimes unprofessional behaviour.  “I don’t socialise much but more than that I don’t suck up to fashion industry-wallahs. I think I will learn PR skills with time.”

Most-Like Model Precedent: Sonia Mehnaz

Verdict/Advice: ‘Alleged’ minor cosmetic surgery (lip enhancement) makes her look more Barbie than Lolita, especially in photographs. She also needs to work harder on being professional and polite and understanding the idea of “rank” in the fashion hierarchy.

Frieha Altaf

Saima Azhar:

“She’s one of my top picks because she had a height and weight disadvantage and out of sheer determination lost 30 lbs! Everyone she has worked with has praised her professionalism. She’s also a model who listens! In a period of one year she has five covers to her credit already! (Photographer) Rizwan-ul-Haq, Nabila(Stylist) and Andleeb (Editor, Xpozé Monthly) love her.

Advice:

“Saima has to work on getting rid of her fake American accent; it has to go! She needs to groom herself and dress correctly in order to project and render her the right image.”

Sana Khan:

“Sana won the (Veet Miss Supermodel) competition last year. She is tall and gorgeous but she has a weak personality and is not aggressive enough.

Advice:

“She needs to attend the right events. She needs to be noticed! She is doing work but can do much more.”

Sana Sarfaraz: 

“She has the pretty face and great ramp walk and carriage but she has a bad attitude! She lost the cover of Xpozé because she decided to do a paid shoot even after she had committed to the Editor and myself, upsetting us both.

Advice:

“There is something untrustworthy about her which can drown her if she is not careful.”

Mehreen Syed

“Who is going to be the next supermodel?

Sana Sarfaraz and Zeba Ali are two very pretty and very talented girls from Karachi who carry a lot of potential. Sadaf Kanwal also from Karachi carries the zest required. From Lahore, there is Sadia Faisal and Zara Peerzada who are very hard-working and dedicated towards this field.

Other than these we have these upcoming names like Sidra, Faiza Chowdhry, Sonia Naxir and Anam and who are IFAP’s students from Lahore and packed with both talent and looks. I think these girls have the potential, the required spark to be on the top because I have personally worked with them. Not only are they good-looking but they are diligent towards making a name in this industry through hard work.

Advice:

“My prediction regarding these girls will be correct only if they remain true to their profession and always work hard as they are doing now.”

Published in The Express Tribune, Sunday Magazine, July 15^th, 2012.

The permanency, if not absolute immovability, of the longer shirt length has fascinated me for a long time. While designers such as HSY, Nadya Mistry and Kamiar Rokni derisively refer to the shapeless, flowing garments as ‘tents’, the long, loose tunic is such a favourite with women that it stays ‘in fashion’ even when it looks hopelessly inelegant.

I often perform an odd and potentially embarrassing experiment on certain women. At the most elegant of soirees, I will approach a glamorous socialite and ask her why she continues to follow the trend of wearing long tunics even when the garment obviously drowns her diminutive frame and makes her look even shorter than she is. More often than not, the reply from these women is that they wear it because it’s “in fashion”. This, of course, exasperates me since, to be truly stylish as opposed to trendy, it is necessary to don clothes according to one’s body type, complexion and age.

Fashion experts say that in the swinging 60s Pakistani women were truly fashion forward, wearing short, sleeveless shirts with churidaar pants and accessorising their daring outfits with beehive hairdos and Jackie O-inspired sunglasses. Pakistani women have now turned into a nation of clones, all wearing similar lawn prints and those pesky long tunics.

Are Pakistani designers simply following women’s demands in churning out the same safe and boring designs rather than introducing revolutionary silhouettes? And will these voluminous floor-skimming tunics ever go away?

“We are desperate to get rid of them,” says Safinaz Muneer, one half of the uber-successful designer duo Sana Safinaz. “Our latest collection for the export market is all about shorter lengths. But for the past 18 months, I have actually been nauseated by the long tunics!”

“The truth is the market is not yet receptive to short lengths,” adds Sana Hashwani. “People are not ready to let go because it is an easy cover-up.”

Camouflage your worst

While designers might be slowly pushing shorter lengths to clients, another reason for their endless stay is that they manage to camouflage and hide the typical subcontinental woman’s hereditary pear shape and her bumps and bulges. “People are not ready to let go because it is an easy cover-up,” says Hashwani.

In the west, the wrap dress made popular by Diane Von Furstenberg does the same for Caucasian women. “These long, loose, formless tunics allow women to feel free and unself-conscious when they are lolling about amongst themselves at kitty parties,” explains Yasmeen, a stylish design entrepreneur who supplies embroidery for British designers such as Sir Paul Smith and Osman Yousefzada. “If they wore more structured, leaner silhouettes — which I personally believe help to improve your carriage and posture, making it more elegant — they would feel more conscious about any bulges and sags.”

A time and place for everything

To this I would add my belief that working women, especially those employed in male dominated offices, prefer the long lengths, to keep the look work-appropriate since formfitting attire simply does not have a place in the office.

At the same time, argues Sana, “One needs to educate women that you can’t wear a ball gown to work. I might encourage women to wear a short and slim tunic to work but I wouldn’t wear it to a wedding where I would opt for a long flowing tunic.”

Sana adds that for evening wear and for weddings a demand for the long and flowing ‘princess look’ will remain as there is no way of attaining that ideal with a short length.

A season of change

“If you peruse lawn catalogues,” says Sana, “you’ll see that we have been introducing short lengths for the past two years. We constantly have to be one step ahead which is why we have always done short versions of every design.

But now I think the trend is changing because women are suddenly wearing shorter lengths. Although most designers are still doing longer lengths, by next year we hope to see the trend change drastically.”

The verdict

Personally, I feel that Pakistani women have a ‘Princess Fascination’ and the long, airy, flowing gown-like tunics transmute women into princess mode. On the other hand, designers happily provide this voluminous cover-up, perhaps because they can justify charging the customer more since the garment uses up more fabric. The worst sartorial combination, in my opinion, is when these long floor-skimming tunics are worn with oversized Kimono or Raglan sleeves. Add to it some thick, lace borders at the hem and paired with Dhaka or Memoni shalwars and what you have is a boxy, monastic monstrosity.

Dont’s

Do not blindly follow fashion trends that do not suit your body shape or lifestyle

Look for clothes that flatter your figure and minimise your flaws and highlight your body’s strengths. Long tunics do none of that.

Do’s

Do choose a bright colour

A brighter colour will help you exude confidence and warm up your complexion.

Do add a bold accessory

If you feel more comfortable in a conservative black or winter white top, infuse some drama with a great statement necklace, a long strand of colourful beads or cocktail ring.

Do select tunics with youthful accents

A keyhole neckline, delicate beading, grommets, crochet and brocade designs will make your tunic look youthful. A few well-placed embellishments will keep the style from looking frumpy or boring

Do wear flowing shirts over churidaar pajamas or skinny jeans

This minimises figure flaws yet accentuates the positives such as shapely legs and a full bust. The lack of definition around the hips and waist draws attention away from that area.

Do pair a long, flowy top with great heels

The shirt and the shoes should complement each other, as they will be the visual points of interest on both the top and the bottom.

Tips

If you are 5’0” or thereabouts avoid wearing tunics which swamp you. Opt for tailored at-the-knee shirts and pair them with slim pants and high heels. When dressing for the office, wear longer shirts with low slits that are comfortable and made from breathable fabrics such as pure cotton, rather than flowing embroidered silk and chiffon gown-like tunics.

If you wear long voluminous ‘Princess Look’ tunic to a wedding, pair it with churidaars rather than the wide palazzo or Dhaka pajamas.

Ease into the shorter lengths by wearing trailing shirts which hit thigh high from the front and trail to below the knee from behind.

Published in The Express Tribune, Ms T, July 1^st, 2012.