The sun emits ultraviolet (UV) radiation through three categories: UVA, UVB and UVC bands. Sunscreen protects your skin by absorbing and/or reflecting UVA and UVB radiation. The first effective sunscreen was developed by Austrian chemist Franz Greiter in 1938, and had a Sun Protective Factor (SPF) of two, but now all sunscreens have a SPF rating. The SPF rating indicates how long a sunscreen remains effective. A user can determine how long their sunscreen will be effective by multiplying the SPF factor by the length of time it takes for him or her to suffer a burn without sunscreen. Nowadays, dermatologists recommend sunscreens of SPF 30 or above.

The common perception that people with darker skin tones are not susceptible to damage by the sun’s rays is a myth. Although it is true that darker skin contains more melanin, therefore it may reduce the risk of skin cancer, brown skin is still susceptible to sun damage. Dr Khilji, a practicing dermatologist in Karachi, feels that sunscreen should be a daily part of our lives, and adjusted into our routine. “Just as we brush our teeth every morning, we must learn to have a mindset in which we apply sunscreen daily as it is the single most important thing for people living in temperate climates, such as those of South Asia.”

Another skin specialist, Mrs Humaira Ali Khan, owner of The Beautishape Clinic in Karachi says, “Eighty to 85 per cent of aging takes place because of the sun. Most of my patients who come for skin rejuvenation have had prolonged exposure to the sun which has caused damage.” Khan feels that, “Sunscreen is the single most important accessory a person must have. One should not limit its use to summer months only; it is necessary in every season as even in cloudy weather, 80 per cent of the sun’s rays are able to reach the earth’s surface.”

However, some sunscreens only protect against UVB radiation, and not against the more dangerous UVA radiation. Khilji explains how people with brown skin tones, such as those in Pakistan, are more susceptible to tanning, pigmentation and Melasma as compared to the fear of skin cancer in Caucasian people. “The most deadly rays for people with brown skin are UVA rays, which cause tanning. Most imported sunscreens offer protection from only UVB and UVC rays, since people with fairer skin tones want a tan and are more concerned about skin cancer. Therefore, in our region, before buying sunscreen, it is very important to read the labels. Only those sunscreens which guarantee protection from UVA rays are useful for people in Pakistan.”

He also described the new system of Protection Grade of UVA (PA) rating which refers to the amount of protection the sunscreen offers from UVA rays. PA ratings, which are usually used in Asia, are listed as PA+, PA++ or PA+++ — the more plus symbols, the more protection from UVA rays. Khilji stated that this is the most effective way to look for a sunscreen in Pakistan.

Some think that sunscreens are harmful as they block your pores and make one’s skin oily, but Khilji refutes the argument saying, “A brand is a brand. If you buy from a good brand such as Neutrogena or L’Oreal, it will not do you any harm. Also, options are available for all kinds of skin types. So you must choose according to your situation.”

Debunking myths about sunscreen

The higher the SPF level, the more effective the product

A high SPF level does not provide a significant amount of additional protection. SPF 30 sunscreen blocks 97 per cent of UVB rays, which is enough for most situations.

Apply once a day, and keep the suntan away

This statement is false. Sunscreen should generally be applied every two hours, and more regularly in situations where one is swimming or sweating a lot. Even water-resistant sunscreens may lose their effectiveness after 40 minutes in the water.

Stored bottles of
sunscreen last forever

Sunscreen loses its effectiveness after one year, and is mostly ineffective after three years. Unless you have an expiration date on your sunscreen, it is better to dispose them after two to three years.

A little dab of sunscreen works just fine!

The recommended amount to apply is a full palm or one ounce. It should be applied to dry skin 15 to 30 minutes before going outdoors to allow it to be absorbed into the skin.

Published in The Express Tribune, July 12^th, 2011.

However, this does not require a lavish budget and many film-makers have managed to make excellent documentaries while facing severe budget constraints.

One such example is Without Shepherds, which was shot in the wake of Benazir Bhutto’s assassination as violent attacks resonated throughout Pakistan and pressure escalated from the West. The movie very simply takes the audience through the reality of six people’s lives, from the streets of Karachi to the border of Afghanistan and highlights the misunderstood side of Pakistan.

Director Cary McClelland feels that documentary films travel a rockier road to find funding than fiction films, since they offer less return on investment; Without Shepherds had to establish a website for donations. According to McClelland, “Pakistan as a subject has certainly been an asset rather than an obstacle. We’ve found a wide base of support amongst Americans keen to see a change in our approach to foreign policy questions, strong backing from Pakistani expats eager to build a bridge between their homeland and the rest of the world, as well as significant interest from distributors who see more and more potential for the film as Pakistan has become more prominent in the headlines.” However, the finan-cial challenges “took twice as much work to get the same level of support.”

McClelland added, “Our film’s journey should be an optimistic sign for those who fear Pakistan, facing insurmountable persecution and vilification abroad. Our community is a reflection of a basic human love and compassion many share with the people of Pakistan, and a genuine excitement in the chance to take a different path in the years to come.”

In today’s time, film-makers are trying to tell a timeless story. As seen in Without Shepherds, the story is more than rooted in current controversies. The director feels that the film offers critical context towards understanding the aspirations of Pakistan’s people — its progressive voices and grass-roots game changers. While commenting on the current situation, the director believes that “there’s probably been no better time for the film to find an eager audience, hungry for new perspectives”.

Haal, a docu-mentary set in the 1980’s Pakistan during the dict-atorship of General Ziaul Haq promotes, shows how the junta used Islam-ism as a tool to supress the media and suffocate the arts. The director, Assad Zulfiqar Khan feels that the reason documentaries are being made about Pakistan is because “Pakistan is a complex country to say the least. Our politics (or lack thereof) for the past 60 years has played a key role in shaping global events. Given the current infamy of our denizens, it’s only logical that people come and try and document our situation. And this can only be a good thing. Only after introspection can we as a people learn from the mistakes of our past and present. And what better way to realise our mistakes than seeing them on screen.”

Another doc-umentary, Escape, part of a  film workshop conducted by the British High Commission in 2009, portrayed Pakistan simply through visual images in order to deco-nstruct the myth that ‘Pakistan is a dangerous place to live’. The director, Jibran Khan, says that the short documentary was mainly targeted for a foreign audience. He also feels that “Pakistani film-makers are now realising the world wants to know more about this land (and its problems). And in order to educate the foreign audience in terms of its culture and politics, many film-makers make documentaries — since they are much cheaper and cost effective.”

In the end, we are left with the video footage, which, almost always, portrays the problems of society and politics. If we can learn from our past mistakes  and disperse this message to a wider audience, the aim of these dedicated film-makers will be fulfilled.

Published in The Express Tribune, July 10^th, 2011.