"What are you doing this summer?" asked my friend.
"Nothing much," I shrugged and replied.
"Why don’t you come over to Islamabad? She suggested. “We can take a trip to Murree. Your kids haven’t explored this side of the country!”
This casual invitation set off a chain reaction that none of us knew would turn an ordinary summer into an unforgettable adventure of an encounter with an extinct being!
“You mean an all-girls trip”, I said, “With my teenage kids of course”
“Yes!” a prompt reply was all I needed.
We quickly started organising our itinerary, eager to explore the picturesque landscapes and cool climate of Murree and the Galliyat. I believe they are a treasure trove of natural beauty and cultural experiences. The thought of showing my kids lush green hills and some up-close experience with wild-life filled me with excitement.
We wanted to stay at a budget friendly, uncrowded and safe place. Our search for such an abode was abetted by my daughter’s friend who had stayed at Ghorra Gali, a few months back. Ghorra Gali is not at such a high altitude as Murree so it is not typically the first choice for local or otherwise tourists.
“Ami, imagine a cosy cabin nestled among towering trees,” said my daughter Eshal. “Its eccentric structure harmonising with natural surroundings. The porch, an inviting space that faces a dense forest which seems to stretch endlessly. This picturesque setting will offer a perfect escape from the hustle and bustle of everyday life.”
I was slightly shocked at her eloquence, which orchestrated to convince me into taking her, of course, and the pictures of a quiet cabin with a 24/7 restaurant service were all too inviting.
So, on a hazy Islamabad morning, we set off to our destination, Ghorra Gali. My dear friend Tanveer has a Glory, a seven-seater SUV. Our journey felt like a vibrant symphony, each note resonating with laughter and the thumping bass of our favourite tunes. The vehicle transformed into a rolling home, cradling us in its embrace as we shared stories and snacks, creating a tapestry of memories woven together by the music that filled the air.
Being true foodies we stopped for a cup of tea and some snacks. Soon, the heavens opened up, showering us with delicate droplets that danced like tiny diamonds against the windshield, crafting a true holiday mood. Each drop was a whisper of joy, tapping a gentle rhythm on the roof of our vehicle, as if nature herself had joined our celebration.
The air became infused with a fresh, earthy scent, wrapping around us like a cozy blanket, inviting us to sink deeper into the warmth of our shared laughter and stories. The drizzle transformed the world outside into a watercolour painting, softening the edges of reality and blurring the lines between adventure and tranquility. And soon we were at our destination, practically hidden in the thick woods. The owner was waiting for us with a welcoming smile and we had some handy help with our luggage as we had to take a small yet twisting trail downwards for the cabin. The cabins were modestly decorated and each had an attached clean bathroom with running water, probably nothing short of a blessing in this part of the world.
The view from the cabin was breathtaking, more beautiful than the pictures which were sent to me and it looked perfect for the quite reclusive vacation that I was anticipating. We planned a daily trip for exploration and trying the local delicacies. Much to my surprise, the cuisine in the region was influenced by Kashmiri, Punjabi, and Pashtun flavours, emphasising freshness and a variety of spices. We tasted some of the finest mutton karrahi that I have ever had and as it was raining almost every day, a karrak doodh patti turned out to be everyone’s favourite mealtime companion.
A small yet very practical porch in front of our cabin was phenomenal in the mornings. As you sat there, you were be enveloped by the sounds of nature. The rustling leaves, the gentle chirping of birds, and the distant call of wildlife created a soothing symphony. Each sound added to the ambiance, making it a perfect place for reflection or simply enjoying the moment. We mostly enjoyed a traditional breakfast there every morning.
The view in the evening from the porch was nothing short of mesmerising. Sunlight filtered through the canopy, casting dappled shadows on the ground. The vibrant greens of the foliage contrasted beautifully with the earthy tones of the cabin. All I needed was a cup of hot coffee to complete my day.
Little did we know that we would be amazed by the abundance of wildlife that awaited us as soon as the sun set. We were treated to the sight of various families of wild boars with their little ones. My kids Eshal and Sarim who have a keen interest in preserving local wildlife, found it to be an absolute treat. The opportunity to witness diverse wildlife up close not only thrilled them but also deepened their appreciation for nature. It was a wonderful way to inspire their passion for conservation and connect with the natural world.
We would discuss how important the presence of these small animals was for not just the ecosystem but also for the vitality of the animals high up in the food chain, which included the local leopards. Zaheed bhai, the attendant at the restaurant, was full of stories of leopards coming down to Ghorra Gali and attacking the sheep of local farmers. What we experienced next was genuinely a pleasure! It was a lone jackal who vanished into the darkness as soon as it caught wind of our presence.
Every day we visited the nearby galliyats and tasted the local delicacies. We simply loved the morning hiking at the Ayubia Pipe Line Trail, its colonial links made it all the more dramatic on a rainy day with a lack of visitors. The greenery, majestic turns, and the deafening sound of the birds and hooting of the monkeys made it all the more breathtaking.
Every evening, after a tedious day out, we would visit the restaurant attached to our cabins. On the first day, as it was late evening and I was enjoying my coffee, the kids were discussing the next destination to be ventured to. I felt a stir in the tall pine trees above us. At first, I was unsure of what I was witnessing. But soon, I grasped the marvel of nature as a massive grey figure soared about 20 feet in the air right before my eyes.
"Flying squirrels!" I exclaimed.
The three of us leaped up in excitement to observe these rare creatures, thought to be extinct, yet here they were in surprising numbers. They glided effortlessly from one tree to another, dashing away with remarkable speed and disappearing into the shadows of the expansive forest before us. Zaheed Bhai could see our excitement and thus he added to our knowledge that there were some red squirrels which lived in complete harmony with the grey ones.
From that day onward, every evening we made it a ritual to sit and wait for them to appear.
We had never anticipated witnessing such a rare and nearly extinct creature up so close. To our surprise they were purely nocturnal and had perhaps adopted this technique for their survival in the hostile environment in the dwindling forest.
Instead of caves and creeks they had made a hollow tree trunk their abode. I wonder if our local wildlife department was aware of the presence of these woolly flying squirrels (as they are commonly known) in Ghorra Gali at an approximate elevation of 1619m. The squirrels leaped from one tree to another, covering a considerable distance. Their size, nearly that of an average cat, caused them to land with a thud before they swiftly scampered up to the top of the tree. Unfortunately, since we weren't equipped with searchlights, it was difficult to capture a clear photo with our mobile phones.
A little search by Sarim made it clear that there are actually two types of flying squirrels around us: the gray squirrels and the red ones. During winter, they do not truly hibernate; instead, they huddle together and reduce their outdoor activity through a process called torpor.
As our journey drew to a close, the memories of Ghorra Gali stayed with us. What began as a casual summer getaway had turned into an extraordinary adventure, one that left us with stories to tell for years to come. The serenity of the forest, the delight of unexpected wildlife encounters, and the simple joys of family bonding reminded us of the timeless beauty of nature. With a heart full of gratitude and our mobile phones brimming with imperfect yet cherished snapshots, we bid farewell to this hidden haven, promising to return one day to relive its magic. As the cabin disappeared from view, enveloped once more by the misty woods, I couldn’t help but smile—this was a summer with squirrels we’d never forget.
Safia Siddiqui is a professor and a wild life enthusiast. She can be reached at safiabwp1@gmail.com
All facts and information are the sole responsibility of the writer