Tea in the mountains and good company

SWAT:

As autumn's warmth wanes, Kalam's lush valleys transform into a kaleidoscope of gold, amber, and crimson. The majestic Mahodand Lake shines like a sapphire, reflecting the surrounding mountains' rust-hued grandeur.

In Hunza, apricot and cherry trees stand bare, their branches etched against the sky like delicate pen and ink drawings. The ancient fortresses of Karimabad and Baltit seem to rise from the earth, their stone facades glowing golden in the fading light.

With the winter's chill beginning to bite, Kalam's meadows turn into a serene canvas of white, with snowflakes gently falling onto the valley's rolling hills. Hunza's snow-capped peaks shimmer like diamonds, their rugged beauty softened by the gentle silence of the season.

As I embarked on my own journey to Kalam, nestled in the heart of the Swat Valley, I chanced upon a Scottish-Spanish adventurer who had also been drawn to this enchanting land. Together, we navigated Pakistan's breathtaking natural wonders, discovering hidden gems and unexpected delights along the way.

Marcos – the solo traveler

This was the perfect backdrop for an unforgettable encounter. It was there, within the towering mountains, that I met Marcos Lopez Moreau – a kindred spirit with a tale of adventure and discovery.

The person who started his journey in October this year, from the beautiful mountain ranges and landscapes of Pakistan was amazed to see the beauty of the country that is often labeled as dangerous. But the effort to start this tour was not easy for Marcos.

Perched on a hilltop in Kalam, our conversation began with a breathtaking view of the valley below. As we wound our way down to the quaint Quetta Hotel café in Kalam Bazar, the gentle rustle of leaves and the soft hum of the village replaced the crisp mountain air. Settled into a cozy corner, Marcos cradled his steaming cup of tea, his eyes aglow with an unmistakable sense of freedom.

With a quiet conviction that commanded attention, he shared his remarkable story. "I sold everything," he declared, his voice infused with a deep satisfaction. "Every possession I owned – all gone." The simplicity of his words belied the courage and transformation that had brought him to this moment.

The question lingered: what drives someone to abandon the comforts of home for the unknown? “Pakistan's mountains,” he replied, his gaze drifting toward the Himalayas. “I'd heard tales of their breathtaking beauty, their rugged majesty from a Pakistani friend on mine back in Scotland. I had to see it for myself.”

But it was more than just the breathtaking landscapes that had captivated Marcos, whose journey began in Pakistan's northern frontier, where the Karakoram Range stretches toward the sky – it was the people, the culture, and the warmth that radiated from every corner of this country.

"I feel very welcomed by the people here," Marcos said, his Spanish accent infused with a hint of wonder. "They're curious, warm, and helpful. If you have any kind of problem, everyone is just going to be there to help you out." He chuckled, recalling instances where locals had gone out of their way to assist him, from offering tea to sharing stories about their villages.

From Kalam, Marcos ventured into the Naltar Valley, where lush meadows and crystal-clear lakes mesmerized him. He marveled at the ancient rock carvings in the Hunza Valley and hiked to the base of Rakaposhi, one of the world's most beautiful mountains.

Marcos' journey had begun on October 1st, when he arrived in Pakistan, eager to explore the country's northern frontier. His friend, from Pakistan, had regaled him with tales of Pakistan's natural beauty and hospitality, and Marcos had been hooked. "He told me about all the marvelous things about Pakistan," Marcos recalled. "The mountains, the people, the food – and after so much wait I am traveling here, I can corroborate that everything he told me was true."

Switzerland of the East

As he traveled through Gilgit-Baltistan, Marcos marveled at the stunning valleys and villages, each one is evidence to Pakistan's untamed beauty. He trekked through the majestic glaciers of Pasu, and hiked to the breathtaking Swat Valley, dubbed the "Switzerland of the East." Each place had left an indelible mark on his heart, but it was the people that had truly made his experience unforgettable.

"I have enjoyed so much all Gilgit-Baltistan," Marcos said, his eyes shining with enthusiasm. "And now K-P has been absolutely amazing." He spoke of the ancient rock carvings in the Hunza Valley, and the majestic fortresses of Karimabad and Baltit, their stone facades glowing golden in the fading light.

When asked about his favorite destination so far, Marcos hesitated, "It's very difficult to choose, but if I had to pick one, it would be Pasu." The glaciers, the Kailash Valley, and the cultural heritage of the region had left him awestruck.

As a solo traveler, Marcos had faced concerns about safety, particularly given the official warnings from his home country. However, his experience had been overwhelmingly positive. "Pakistan is absolutely safe," he asserted. "The people are just very helpful. I have not felt unsafe at any point, to be honest."

Marcos' advice to fellow travelers was simple: "Pay attention to blogs and what people say on the Internet, rather than government recommendations." He believed that the reality of Pakistan was far removed from the negative perceptions perpetuated by official warnings.

"I think that the people from other countries should be paying more attention to the blogs and what the people say on the Internet, rather than the government recommendations," Marcos emphasized.

Crossing the border

When asked about his plans after Pakistan, Marcos' eyes sparkled. "I'm crossing the Wagah border at some point over the next month, and I'm visiting India." His itinerary was vague, but his enthusiasm was palpable. "My plan in India is a bit vague, because I spent most of my energy organizing my travels through Pakistan."

Marcos' long-term goal was to travel for a year, or until his funds ran out. "Till the money ends," he chuckled. With a carefree spirit and an insatiable curiosity, Marcos embodied the essence of adventure.

Before departing, Marcos reflected on the differences between the northern regions of Spain, where he grew up, and Pakistan. "The heights, the maximum, the biggest mountain that we have in the north of Spain is over 3,400 meters," he said. "Over here, you're surrounded by 7,000-meter peaks – that's a huge part of it."

As a seasoned traveler, Marcos had learned to appreciate the freedom and depth of connection that came with traveling alone. "You have more freedom, and you get to know more people," he explained. "You're alone, so you end up with the locals, and you get to get more deep into the culture and the people."

For Marcos, capturing the essence of his journey was not just about documenting every moment, but about immersing himself in the experience. When asked how he was capturing his travels, Marcos smiled, "Memories, definitely. That's what I came for." He revealed that he used a simple Pixpro camera, chosen for its ruggedness and affordability, but it was not his primary focus. "I'm just enjoying the moment," he said, explaining that he only took necessary pictures to recall his trip later.

The camera remained hidden in his bag most of the time, a deliberate choice to prioritize living in the moment over meticulous documentation. Marcos' approach reflected his desire to truly connect with Pakistan's people, culture, and landscapes, rather than simply chronicling his adventures.

As Marcos shared his experiences, he explained his passion for mountain climbing, though he hadn't ventured into that in Pakistan. "I've done some base camps and three-day trips, like camping, but not climbing to the top of the mountains – that's another level over here," he said with a grin.

‘Scared is not the word’

Despite the occasional pang of caution, Marcos had never felt truly scared. "Precautious, yes, but scared is not the word," he clarified. His faith in the Pakistani people had been reaffirmed time and again, and he encouraged others to look beyond official warnings.

As he prepared to leave the mountains and venture into Pakistan's city life, Marcos admitted that he would miss the tranquility and rugged beauty of the north. "I'm going to be missing this for the rest of my life, probably," he said wistfully. Yet, he was eager to explore the cultural hotspots of Peshawar, Islamabad, and Lahore, and yes, Karachi too. “Though Karachi it is a bit far away but I would defiantly want to immerse in the gastronomy, music, and vibrant city life that Pakistan had to offer,” he said.

"I'm really excited about going to the big cities and cultural hotspots," Marcos said, his voice filled with anticipation. "I want to explore more into that sense – the culture, the food, the music, and what life in the big cities looks like."

The challenges of visiting Pakistan

Despite Pakistan's stunning natural beauty and rich cultural heritage, tourists often face significant challenges when planning a visit. One of the most frustrating challenges for Marcos was the difficulty in accessing Kashmir, a region renowned for its breathtaking landscapes. "I've heard good things about all parts of Kashmir, both Pakistani and Indian," he said, "but sadly, as a foreigner, I cannot visit any of those places." Marcos attempted to obtain a permit to visit Kashmir in Pakistan but was denied. He plans to try again in India, but expects similar difficulties.

He also shared that obtaining a Pakistani visa proved to be an onerous task for Marcos. "This was the toughest visa I ever had to get," he admitted. With a Spanish passport, Marcos was accustomed to visa-free or visa-on-arrival travel, but Pakistan required a pre-arranged visa. The process took seven to eight days and cost around $100, including a fee for an agency.

Marcos' experience highlights the bureaucratic complexities that tourists may face. "With a Spanish passport, you need a letter of invitation from a travel agency in order to get the Pakistan visa," he explained. This requirement adds an extra layer of complexity to the visa application process. He says that if this is made easy more tourists will come to Pakistan. “Many stop at this stage when they see that they have to get an additional document and that from Pakistan. If this is made easier many more people will visit this nature-gifted land,” he added.

Travelers may also need to navigate permit requirements for specific regions or activities. Marcos' attempt to visit Kashmir was thwarted by permit issues, and similar restrictions may apply to other areas or activities.

Despite these challenges, Marcos' enthusiasm for Pakistan remained firm. His experiences serve as a reminder that, with careful planning and persistence, tourists can overcome these obstacles and discover the beauty and hospitality that Pakistan has to offer.

Marcos' journey was a proof to the power of curiosity and adventure. He had sold everything to his possessions – to embark on this journey, and it had been a decision he would never regret.

Drained cups

As our conversation drew to a close, Marcos glanced out the window, his gaze drifting toward the majestic mountains. The tea had long been drained from our cups, but the warmth of his stories lingered, a testament to the enduring allure of Pakistan's untamed beauty and its people's unconditional hospitality.

With a final smile, Marcos gathered his belongings, ready to embark on the next leg of his journey. As he disappeared into the streets of Kalam, his words echoed in the silence, "Pakistan is absolutely safe. The people are just very helpful." A traveler's testament to a country's unseen charm.

The snow-capped peaks of the Karakoram Range stood sentinel, witnesses to Marcos' incredible journey. As the sun dipped below the horizon, casting a golden glow over the valley, the people of Pakistan – warm, welcoming, and resilient – remained etched in Marcos' memory, a reminder of the beauty that lay beyond the surface.

And so, Marcos' story became a thread in the intricate tapestry of Pakistan's travel lore, evidence to the transformative power of adventure and the boundless hospitality of a nation. As his journey continued, the memories of Pakistan's majestic landscapes, vibrant culture, and generous people would remain with him forever, a reminder of the incredible experiences that awaited those brave enough to venture off the beaten path.

In the fading light of day, the valley's silence was punctuated only by the distant call to prayer, a haunting melody that seemed to resonate deep within Marcos' soul. He knew that no matter where his travels took him next, Pakistan would forever hold a piece of his heart – a reminder of the beauty, wonder, and connection that awaited him in the most unexpected of places.