In a world where extreme sports are often synonymous with masculinity, especially in Pakistan, it's easy to assume that only men can conquer the highest peaks. The rugged terrain, the treacherous weather conditions, and the sheer physical demands of mountain climbing seem to be the exclusive domain of men. But what about the women who defy these stereotypes? The ones who, despite societal expectations, pursue their passion for mountain climbing with firm dedication? Meet Naila Kiani, a Pakistani mountaineer who shatters these assumptions with her remarkable achievements.
Not only is she a married woman and a mother of two, but she also holds an unparalleled record in mountaineering. She is the first Pakistani woman, and the third Pakistani overall, to have scaled 11 of the world's 14 highest peaks above 8,000 metres — in just a period of two years and all in her first attempt. And if that's not enough, she has also achieved the rare feat of completing two double headers, climbing two peaks back-to-back, a testament to her unrelenting spirit and physical prowess.
In Pakistan, where women are often discouraged from pursuing careers in extreme sports, Naila's achievements are a beacon of hope for many young girls and women who dare to dream big. With each summit, she proves that women can be just as strong, resilient, and determined as men.
Her dedication, perseverance, and passion for mountain climbing have enabled her to overcome seemingly insurmountable challenges and push her body to its limits.
The beginning
Naila's journey to becoming a pioneering mountaineer began in Rawalpindi, where she was born and raised. "I was born in Rawalpindi, where my parents hail from,” she shares. “I hold a degree in Aerospace Engineering from the University of London. As a student, I excelled in aerospace engineering and was also passionate about boxing."
Her background in engineering and passion for sports laid the foundation for her future adventures in mountaineering, though she never imagined she would one day become a trailblazing climber. As she puts it, "I didn't think I was capable of achieving this, but I had an inner strength that I wasn't aware of. I had been boxing for a long time before becoming a mountaineer.” Little did she know, her inner strength would soon propel her to remarkable heights.
Naila's early life was marked by a strong support system, with her family encouraging her to pursue her dreams. Her parents, though traditional, were open-minded and instilled in her a sense of independence and self-reliance. This upbringing helped shape her confidence and determination, qualities that would serve her well in the male-dominated world of mountaineering.
"Not only my parents were supportive, my husband has been incredibly encouraging throughout my journey,” she says. “Although they are sometimes concerned about the challenges of mountaineering, but after I have explained things to them for some time, they understand.” This support, combined with her own drive and resilience, helped her overcome obstacles and push boundaries.
Naila's engineering and banking background also played a significant role in her development as a mountaineer. Her analytical mind and problem-solving skills, honed through her studies and professional experience, proved invaluable in tackling the technical challenges of climbing. “Throughout my professional career, I have worked in both engineering and banking at a management level which has definitely helped me in terms of risk assessment and crisis management," she says. “This solid foundation, prepared me to take on the highest peaks and make a mark as a female mountaineer.”
Overcoming obstacles
Her journey to the top was not without its challenges. She faced skepticism and disbelief from many who thought she was incapable of summiting a mountain. "No one believed a woman from Punjab, Rawalpindi could summit a mountain," she recalls. "They would question my ability, but I was determined to prove them wrong, to show that I was capable of achieving anything I set my mind to."
Naila struggled to convince her family and husband about her expeditions, but their eventual support alleviated her worries. “Initially, convincing them about the expedition was challenging, and I had to go through the same process every time I planned a new trip, which took around 5-6 months," she recalls.
The biggest hurdle, however, was leaving her children behind. "It was the hardest part," she admits. "But my husband was my rock, supporting me every step of the way. He believed in me even when I didn't believe in myself."
As a woman, Naila faced unique obstacles that her male counterparts did not. She encountered gear issues and lacked guidance from experienced female climbers. "No one prepared me for the fact that people often give up and don't reach the top,” she shares. “Gear issues hindered my progress, and I tried to seek guidance from another female climber with years of experience, but she was inaccessible and couldn't spare the time to advise me. As a result, I was unaware of the physical and emotional challenges that lay ahead. But I didn't let that stop me. I learned from my mistakes and kept moving forward, even when it seemed impossible."
Despite these obstacles, she remained determined. "After completing four weeks of training and achieving a double header, I proved them wrong,” she says. “When I reached the summit of Everest, I was the first climber, and people started to believe in me. Before that, not many people thought I could do it, and would often say I was just lucky or had an easy route. But after my sixth summit, it was clear that I was a capable climber, and the doubts faded away."
Naila's success also paved the way for other women to follow in her footsteps. "I've learned from my experience and now make it a point to share my knowledge with others, warning them about the physical and emotional obstacles they may encounter on their own journeys. I want to inspire other women to pursue their dreams, no matter how impossible they may seem."
Through her experiences, Naila has learned to embrace failure, to see it as an opportunity to learn and grow. “I've learned to surround myself with people who support and encourage me,” she says. “People who believe in me even when I don't believe in myself."
Making history
Naila's mountaineering career is marked by several impressive achievements, including some historic firsts such as being the first Pakistani mountaineer, male or female, to achieve a double header by climbing Everest and Lhotse peak back-to-back. "For me, the achievement wasn't just about being the second person to reach Mount Everest,” she reveals. “It was about summiting both Everest and Lhotse as a double header, a feat no Pakistani man has accomplished. Many people assume that climbing Everest is easy, but it's actually quite challenging and climbing another peak right after that is even tougher.” Many people know her as the second Pakistani woman to climb Everest, but not that she completed a double header.
"Mount Everest was not my dream mountain; K2 and Nanga Parbat were,” she discloses. “However, Mount Everest was a necessary 'tick box' before tackling my true passion projects. People often say that sherpa lifted and took me to the Everest. If that was the case then how come I was the first one to reach to the top, if sherpa had lifted then his speed would have slowed down, and I would not have been the first to reach the top.”
Naila has earned a series of firsts and is the first Pakistani woman to climb 11 peaks above 8,000 metres, to summit an 8,000-meter peak in Pakistan, and the third Pakistani overall to achieve this distinction.
Her impressive record includes successful summits of Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum I, Gasherbrum II, Lhotse, Manaslu, Broad Peak, Annapurna, Makalu, and Cho Oyu. In 2023, she joined an elite group of global mountaineers, becoming the only Pakistani to climb seven peaks above 8,000 meters within six months.
Kiani's speed and agility in ascending these peaks are unmatched, making her the fastest Pakistani, regardless of gender, to have climbed all eleven 8,000-meter peaks in two years. Her outstanding achievements have been recognised with the prestigious Sitara-e-Imtiaz, the highest civilian honour bestowed upon a female athlete in Pakistan.
Despite a terrifying moment during the summit push, but she never considered giving up. “The summit push was incredibly challenging, and I nearly slid down the mountain,” she recalls. “I felt like I was drifting up and down, helpless to stop it. I thought I was going to die at that moment. But I never had a second thought about turning back; quitting was not an option.
Naila's preparations for the summit were rigorous, focusing on strength and endurance exercises. "Living in a flat area like Rawalpindi, I can only engage in physical gym training unlike people in Islamabad, who have access to hiking trails," she shares.
Her mental toughness was also crucial in her success, as she believes, "I often rely on my mental strength to drive me forward, using my mind to overcome obstacles and stay focused on my goal. There are times when I feel physically exhausted, with zero energy, but I know I must overcome that feeling and persevere."
Naila's achievements didn't stop there. She also became the first Pakistani female to climb six 8,000-metre peaks, and the fastest to summit all six.
Climbing K2 and G1 as a double header was a feat that no one had accomplished before. "Last year I achieved another milestone by climbing K2 and G1 as a double header, another unique feat for Pakistani climbers,” says Naila. "I believe that we often see things as impossible because we limit ourselves and don't realise our full potential. We need to explore our capabilities and not think that we can't do something just because we're married or have other responsibilities. Two years ago, I wouldn't have thought I was capable of achieving this, but I had an inner strength that I wasn't aware of. As an amateur boxer for the last 10-12 years, I had physical strength, but I didn't know how to harness it." Her message is clear, that with determination and hard work, anything is possible. "I know that I can do anything I set my mind to, and other women can do the same. Women can achieve anything I have achieved."
National goodwill ambassador
Naila has always been an advocate for girls' education, and recently has been appointed as the National Goodwill Ambassador by the Ministry of Federal Education and Professional Training. With her remarkable achievements in mountaineering, Kiani is now poised to champion the cause of girls' education across Pakistan. She believes that education is the key to unlocking women's potential and driving success in Pakistan.
“I am committed to using my platform to advocate for educational initiatives that ensure every girl in Pakistan has access to quality education, empowering them to reach their full potential," she declared.
Personal growth and inspiration
While Naila’s professional and boxing careers have taught her valuable lessons in discipline and perseverance, the challenges she faced on the mountains have tested her limits, built her resilience, and given her a unique perspective on life.
"Previously, I was very sensitive to criticism, and if someone criticised me harshly, I would take it to heart," she shares. “But my experiences on the mountains have taught me to ignore negative opinions and focus on my goals. After my Annapurna expedition, I faced online abuse for days, which affected me deeply and I was in depression for 10 days."
She recalls a particularly challenging moment on Everest. "Just before summiting, my guide went ahead of me,” shares Naila. “I removed my backpack and saw the oxygen was almost ending. I thought to myself, 'I'm going to die.' Panic set in, and I thought about my daughters. I started repeating out loud, 'Not today, not today, not today. I will not die today.' I drew strength from those thoughts and used that focus to climb quickly. I summited and returned as fast as I could."
Naila's experiences have inspired her to live a happy life and pursue her passions without letting others' opinions hold her back. She says, "I used to worry about what others thought, but now I live a happy life, and want the same for my family."
More to come
As Naila continues to push the boundaries of her potential, her future plans are exciting and ambitious. "I plan to tackle Nanga Parbat next month, followed by Broad Peak, which will complete my goal of summiting all five 8,000-metre peaks in Pakistan."
Naila's aspirations go beyond conquering mountains; she aims to inspire a new generation of women to pursue their dreams and challenge societal norms. With her determination and passion for mountaineering, Naila is poised to achieve even greater heights in the future.