The t-shirt ideologue

Controversial t-shirts have become all the rage amongst Pakistani youngsters.

KARACHI: Off late, t-shirts have come to stand for more than just a staple wardrobe item. Whether it’s promoting a cause or hi-lighting freedom of expression- t-shirts are the new way to go. The t-shirt trend delineates its course back to international campaigns that supported the go green concept, the Haiti relief efforts, the human rights commission, the plight against HIV and many more. But recent trends have explored the avenue more vastly, and it now appears that t-shirts are not just representative of symbolic logos but follow from a deep ideology and Pakistan has been no exception to this trend.

Ammar Zaidi, the Creative Director of Daku set up his company in 2005 and says that, “Daku stands for Daring Active Kinetic Urban and our tagline embodies activism, ‘We can be silent, no more- t-shirts against injustice’.”

Zaidi believes in making a political statement and takes his main inspiration from political philosophy and social deprivation, “We have made t-shirts ranging from political issues to patriotic issues. It doesn’t matter how controversial a design becomes, I don’t think ‘will it sell or not’ when I make a design. I make what I feel and Daku is almost like an extension of my personality.”

Uth-Oye! Is another brand that personalizes tags on t-shirts and specifically caters to the youth. Founder and Creative Director, Babar Rashid Khan launched his product line in 2006 says, “All of our t-shirts are judged by one rule of thumb: Do they make old people go what the hell or not? Khan believes in breaking stereotypes and calling out to the instincts that each one of us curtails internally.

Gullak marked its entrance on the Lux Style Awards with a bang, when one of their designs “Cha Gae Meera” hit the red carpet.  “As a brand, Gulluk is the brainchild of Ammara Gul Aga and mainly focuses on over- the- top verbal gags to create an impact.

Ammara Gul Aga unlike her counterparts believes in being politically correct in her designs, she maintains that Gullak t-shirts use colloquial slang, and local punch lines to assert humour. “Of course we avoid making political statements or highlighting negativity. At the root of it, we want to make t-shirts that make people smile at each other.”

One of Pakistan’s pioneering designers Maheen Khan came up with the concept of Gulabo that uses patriotic elements to symbolize t-shirts. “The one thing that remained a source of pride was our Truck Art. (Hence) Gulabo tees will always be a very special part of the brand,” she adds.

Maheen Khan not only revitalizes native spirits with her ethnic designs but also incorporates a traditional sense of pride in her shirts, “Gulabo might have started as a high street, edgy brand but today it has evolved into a fashion brand.”

The four leading brands in the business are known for their distinctive styles, unique sense of expression and moving designs. While some believe in mobilizing the youth, others have tried to portray a more positive image of Pakistan. Each one of these brands has not only managed to create their own niche in the market but have also built a lofty number of clients.

After a random interview with customers, it appears the Daku is a leading brand in amongst buyers.  Customers are drawn to the brand for its  outrageous factor and appreciate the bold statements made by the brand. For customers like Neha Javed, who uses Daku tees as gifts to her male friends says, “They are out with funny but powerful statements, (which) actually force you to think.”

“I prefer Daku  t-shirts, a lot of people look at you as if you really are a daku and the statements say a lot,” says a young businessman Asad Khan. Saira Ahmed a college student says she prefers wearing Daku because, “They have very creative designs based around ‘Karachi’ that are fun, wearable and relateable.”

Published in The Express Tribune, December 19^th, 2010.