Designer jewellery: Capturing the spirit of ancient symbolism

Karaeva's jewellery is not just an eye-catcher but every piece tells a story.

ISLAMABAD:

Ella Karaeva, the designer behind Ella & Ella Fashion, is one of the first artists to capture the spirit and symbolism of the Scythian tribes. Her unique collection, on display at Melange in F-6/2, is a mix of mystical animals, ornaments and symbols of ancient tribes engraved in silver and gold filigree. Karaeva’s jewellery, regarded as “collector’s jewellery”, is not just an eye-catcher but every piece tells a story.

“Pakistan is a land of craftsmen,” said Karaeva, who has been working with local artisans for the past five years. She guarantees that her entire collection is exclusively handcrafted, with use of unique gems and semi-precious stones in natural silver and gold. With no casting or moulding of pieces, Karaeva’s jewellery is indeed a work of art. Describing one of her finest pieces, which has a one and half inch Buddha embellished with stones engraved in silver, “is a hot item among foreigners as well as locals.”

Explaining the use of mystical animal icons in her pieces, Karaeva said, “It is a trend that is uncommon in Pakistan.” People are often amazed at the use such symbols on pendants, but the story behind it makes them want to learn more about it. Symbols of Asian Leopards were used by Scythian warriors decades ago on clothes, jewellery and even carpets, explained Karaeva. Similarly, the silver snake-shaped like a thunder spoke, is a symbol of wisdom and women’s power.

The ancient Scythian and Sarmatian tribes linked people and cultures from Europe, through the Caucasus, to South East Asia over 2,000 years ago. These tribes travelled for years across the modern day Central Asia, Russia and Ukraine and have been described as “a network of culturally similar tribes”, Karaeva added.

In her “Spirit of Gandhara” line of jewellery, the artist captures the beauty and spirit of the Gandhara civilisation. The region ranging from Taxila to Afghanistan was home to the Gandhara civilisation and a cradle of Buddhism. All cultures met in Gandhara, from the Scythians and Bactrians, to the Greeks under  Alexander, she explained. “There is a root connection which takes us back thousands of years in history. Taxila is so rich in history that you just want to keep on discovering it.”

“Pakistan should be proud of Gandhara. It is one of the gems of Pakistan and a gift to the world,” Karaeva added.

Published in The Express Tribune, March 13^th, 2011.