An unforgettable past: Chitrali Bazaar still bustles with yesteryear memories

Established in late 1940s, market was once point of convergence for locals, foreigners

PESHAWAR:

Chitrali Bazaar, which was known as Bazaar-e-Husn (market for beauty) before Partition, has been a popular haunt for tourists for many decades. It is famous for souvenirs like Pakol (a traditional hat).

The bazaar was established in the late 1940s by shopkeepers from Chitral and is situated in the heart of the city near Qissa Khwani Bazaar. It consists of 600 shops and was once a bustling point of convergence for locals and foreigners.

Until a decade ago, the bazaar was frequently visited by people from around the world and the shopkeepers were selling woolen coats, waistcoats, Chitrali Chugha (embroidered robe) and shawls.

Militancy has dealt a critical blow to business in the area. Chitrali Bazaar serves as a hotspot for people who are eager to buy warm clothes.

The sale of Chitrali Patti and handmade woolen items reaches its peak during winter. People throng to the shops to buy handmade woolen products to protect themselves from the cold.

A good omen

Speaking to The Express Tribune, Anjuman-e-Tajaran Chairman Abdur Razaq said, “Winter is just round the corner and the shopkeepers are already earning profits and doing great business as law and order situation has improved considerably.”

He added the situation is now far better than before and there is a huge demand for warm clothes from Punjab, Balochistan and Afghanistan.

Razaq said thousands of shopkeepers, workers and artisans hail from Chitral district and work day and night to sell items of international standards.

“In the past, the merchandise was mainly made of wool from Chitral,” he said. “However, as new varieties of products are available in the market like China cloth, shopkeepers prefer buying these at cheap rates mostly from Lahore, which is known for producing high-quality fabric.”

Cheap and worthy

A large number of shopkeepers claimed good quality cloth was usually handmade by Chitrali women in the past. The material was long-lasting and a bit expensive. However, these days most of the fabric is imported from China and is relatively cheap.

“The famous Chitrali Patti is made from the same cloth, including wool, polyester and cotton. The Chitrali Pakol, which the locals call as Kapol, costs around Rs800 to Rs2,000,” they said. Another shopkeeper added, “Kot is made of original Chitrali Patti and is available for Rs5,000 to Rs6,000, Lahori Patti at Rs3,000 and material from China can cost Rs2,000.”

Signs of neglect

“Business and exports to Afghanistan and Central Asia have been affected by the deteriorating law and order situation in Fata and parts of K-P,” Razzaq, a businessman, told The Express Tribune. “The tragic attack on Army Public School in Peshawar last December brought business to a standstill. Each trader in Chitrali Bazaar earns more than Rs50,000 daily which helps the economy grow. However, the government has not taken any measures for the welfare of the shopkeepers and has instead imposed heavy taxes on us.”

About the bazaar’s history, Razzaq said, “Before Partition, there was a Bazaar-e-Husn at the site of Chitrali Bazaar. This was where locals, as well as foreigners, came to enjoy performances by dancers and musicians.”

Later, some locals and clerics started a movement to shut down the bazaar and eventually succeeded. After it was closed, local elders built four small mosques at each corner and voiced the desire to rename the market ‘Islamabad’.

Sadiq Ameen, former chairman of Anjuman-e-Tajran Chitrali Bazaar said he has witnessed the golden era of Chitrali Bazaar when foreign tourists used to visit without any fear. He hoped the golden era returns and Chitrali Bazaar rises to the top once again.

Published in The Express Tribune, November 14^th, 2015.