Confectionary delights: From Konkan to Karachi, Goans know everyone likes a sweet Christmas

What’s cooking in kitchens around the city for the big day?


Menin Rodrigues December 25, 2010

KARACHI: The people of Lahore may pride themselves on their cuisine, but nothing that city has can beat what Karachi’s Goan Christians cook up for Christmas.

The community is tiny —about 10,000 in number in the city. But the Goan celebration is writ large by their tradition of sweets and desserts. Melt-in-your-mouth chocolate, toffee, caramel, marzipan, sugarplum confectionaries are prepared mostly a week in advance to sweeten the celebration — literally.

“It is in the making of sweets and these special dishes, in which every member of the family takes part in their own small way, that makes Christmas so special,” says Fatima Noronha, who finishes her sweets at least a week before December 25.

Walk into a Goan home during Christmas and you will be welcomed with the tantalising aroma of Sorpotel or Sarapatel, a spicy vinegary meat stew of Portugese origins, which usually takes centre stage at a meal.

So well known are Goan confectionaries that the ceremonial cake for the first civic reception hosted in honour of Mohammad Ali Jinnah by the mayor of Karachi in 1947 was prepared by the famous PF Pereira’s Bakery in Karachi.

Families start stocking up for the Christmas feasts as early as November and the list is long: pistachios, raisins, currants, cherries, orange peel, essences, coconut and jaugery. Most of the Goans prefer to shop for them at Empress Market where nearly all ingredients can be found under one roof.

This year, my wife Veronica has made kulkuls, neurees, marzipan, cheese bows, five different kinds of toffee and three cakes, obviously including the traditional Christmas fruit cake. The most famous of Goa’s sweetmeat is Bebinca, a wonderful creation made by layering coconut pancakes. Most of the ingredients used are jaugery, nuts, coconut and coconut milk, but the selection varies depending on a family’s roots in Goa.

Around the city on Christmas Day

Christmas celebrations will begin with special prayers, commonly known as the ‘Midnight Mass’, in all churches on Friday night, December 24 or Christmas eve. Mass draws approximately 1,500 people to the Central Brookes Memorial Church. In St Patricks Cathedral, which is the largest church in Karachi, approximately 4,000 to 5,000 attendees show up for the midnight service. In the Holy Trinity Church, the number of attendees comes up to around 800. Marquees are sometimes extended beyond the church buildings to accommodate the number of people.

Reverend Christopher Hawks of the Central Brookes Memorial Church speaks of the same spirit as the catalyst behind the festive mood. “We know that the real meaning of Christmas is that God came down to take care of and love and forgive the ‘undeserving’,” he shares. “’Undeserving’ expands it to the whole universe. Salvation is about the universe.”

The period ahead of Christmas is called Advent — the New Liturgical Year — during which the church involves her congregation, the faithful, in spiritual preparation for the coming of Jesus. Special activities are held for children during the Advent to make them understand the true meaning of Christmas.

Prior to the beginning of these activities, Central Brookes Memorial Church prints a Christmas card detailing all the programmes lined up for the occasion. The cards are distributed so that people know about the activities beforehand and the church encourages members of the community to participate, says Hawks. Different events like social dinners, prayers and sermons are organised. The Women’s fellowship, the Children’s Bible School and the Youth fellowship organise their own events. Like all churches, Central Brookes Memorial also holds Sunday carols, where the spirit is to worship through singing, says Hawks.

Carolers also go singing door to door — an activity which was very popular in the past but has lost its charm today due to security and safety issues.

Reverend Dr Pervez Sultan, the principal of St Thomas Theological College, says general celebrations continue till January 6.

Traditional Goan desserts

•    Marzipan

•    Bebinca

•    Kulkuls

•    Neurees

•    Wohrahs

•    Swales

•    Carrabolla

•    Cheese-bows

•    Walnut Toffee

•    Coconut Toffee

•    Pistachio Toffee

•    Almond Toffee

•    Cashew Toffee

•    Doce

•    Coco-shells

•    Fruit Cake

•    Marble Cake

•    Baath Cake

•     Caramel Brownie

with additional reporting by Naureen Aqueel

Published in The Express Tribune, December 25th, 2010.

COMMENTS (6)

Waqar | 13 years ago | Reply Thankyou for an enlightening article, Menin. What is the sweet dish in image three? It looks like a delicacy that can compete in Masterchef!
Noel Santos | 13 years ago | Reply My family still prepares these sweets although its been years, we used to do more while in Karachi...I guess traditions are hard to give away. Menin, thanks for posting this article.
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