The importance of the Sindh Festival

Sindh Festival, for all its limitations, became a powerful statement of how our pluralistic past continues.


Raza Rumi February 19, 2014
The writer hosts a show on Express TV and works as a consulting editor at The Friday Times

The cliche that Pakistan is a land of contradictions is well known. The recently concluded Sindh Festival, despite all the criticism on the way it was organised, presented an alternative road map for Pakistan’s future. Using ‘culture’ as a means of furthering a political ideology is not new and Bilawal Bhutto Zardari’s foray into the mainstream used the cultural argument. In short, Bilawal presented himself as an inheritor of the Indus Valley civilisation and a torchbearer of pluralistic cultural mores now threatened by extremist ideologies of different varieties.

The opening ceremony at the ruins of Moenjo Daro invited heaps of criticism and negative commentary on the danger that the site may face. Sindhi journalists were vigilant and led an active campaign before the launch ceremony. Expert opinion was divided and the actual extent of ‘damage’ is unknown. What the criticism did was to shift the national (and to some extent, international as well) focus on the state of the Indus Valley ruins. For decades, the Pakistani state has, in effect, ‘disowned’ our pre-Islamic heritage. The moment you get into the past, Pakistan’s young and manufactured ‘national identity’ is everything that is not Indian. Bilawal’s decision to celebrate Indus Valley was, therefore, quite meaningful. It led to official patronage from the Sindh government and also unwittingly challenged the construction of the Islamo-nationalist identity that remains contested and has turned sectarian for all practical purposes.

Much fuss was made on social media on the use of the Superman logo, the catchy promotional videos and other features of the festival, which were not strictly according to our ‘values’. A pop singer being kissed on the cheek was an image that invoked the ire of puritans. Even a well-known Sindhi leader questioned on Twitter as to how ‘prostitutes’ were torchbearers of Sindhi culture? This unfolding of our creeping bigotry was instructive as powerful ideas challenge and expose all that we consider normal in the land of the pure. Sindhi nationalists were also upset that there was little of ‘Sindh’ in the galas that the festival organised.

For instance, I attended the Basant on the beach bit of the festival where Punjabi singers performed. Basant itself is identified with Lahore and Punjab’s Vaisakhi festival so its remembrance as a symbol and marker of a once plural culture was important. Regional identities have always been fluid. Basant was also adopted by the Chishti Sufis in medieval times and not all of them were Punjabis. While the high society fashion shows and studio art invited the media glare, the more subaltern donkey cart races and craft trade invited large audiences. A multi-class and varied series of events, not particularly Sindhi all the time, defined what turned out to be two weeks of festivities.

The final ceremony and speech made by Bilawal at Makli, Thatta, was also remarkable for its courage. A kind of narrative that even his party had abandoned after the murder of Benazir Bhutto. Dr Salam, Pakistan’s only Nobel Laureate, found a mention. Let’s see how far Bilawal can go. The greatest of challenges is to set an alternative narrative, of rejecting extremist mindsets. It is unfair to hold Bilawal responsible for what his party could not do during its tenure in government. Pakistan’s moderate parties during 2008-13 could not even start a decent public campaign against extremism, let alone fight the menace. The PPP, therefore, must share the blame for being adrift. Bilawal’s outlook is a turning point of sorts. And the Sindh Festival, for all its limitations, became a powerful statement of how our pluralistic past continues and is not dead despite the efforts to bury it. Fixing Sindh’s governance now becomes even more important. It is not enough to hold festivals and show resolve verbally. The PPP-led provincial government must check the growth of the seminaries network that is taking root in the countryside. In Karachi, the clean-up operation and institution-building is another test case. Bilawal must steer his party towards setting new precedents while in office. The immediate task would be to revise the education curricula for which a committee under a sitting minister has been set up. There is no reason why the MQM and Sindhi nationalists won’t support such efforts. The Sindh Festival must not be remembered as a one-off exercise, but as a new beginning. Let’s wish Bilawal the best while restating that time may be running out for reforms.

Published in The Express Tribune, February 20th, 2014.

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COMMENTS (29)

Fatma Zehra | 10 years ago | Reply Much has been written both for and against the recent Sindh festival organised by the young Zardari and his siblings. The Sindh festival made a shaky start at the ancient ruins of Moenjodaro near Larkana, amid much controversy and then included festivities that were largely Karachi based, or shall we say 'Clifton-based'. Not much was organised across the Clifton Bridge, barring the fashion festival which was in the Hindu Gymkhana, for the benefit of those who wear Maskatiya by day and Deepak by night and Bridals by Bunto. If the idea behind the festival was to highlight the multicultural and the celebrate the pluralistic in Pakistan, there were many ways of achieving the same objective. If it was the 'coming out party' for the young beautillion, as a number of my progressive friends have claimed, and infusing young blood in the old body-PPP, then there were other, perhaps more inclusive ways of going about it. Firstly, they could have named it the Indus festival. All along the banks of the river Indus, that runs through the length of the country touching every province, lie the remains of a rich and varied civilisation that flourished more than five thousand years ago (superbly documented by Alice Albinia in her masterly tome 'Empires of the Indus'- the Story of a River), which is the legacy of the Pakistani nation. Secondly, they needn't have gone far, and might have given a thought to participating in the many festivals that take place in and around Sindh during the year, every year. The Urs of the Sufi saint Lal Shahbaz Qallander (since the 13th century) at Sehwan Shareef and the mystic Shah Abdul Latif (since the 18th century) organised by local communities, which are open to all men women and children from all over Pakistan, immediately come to mind. The Urs at Bhit Shah is a grand festival, where people from almost every little hamlet, village and town of Sindh and from other provinces of Pakistan - rich and poor, young and old, scholars and peasants - make a resolute effort to attend. Food and craft, discussion and debate are all a part and parcel of this exhilerating event. As a casual visitor and a woman, some years ago, not once was I made to feel self-conscious or encountered the lurid gaze of any of the fakirs, musicians or the security apparatus. It had a magical ambience laced with raw energy, where the devotees, sunnis shias, hindus and muslims, revelled in music and there was much fuel for the soul, debate on the works of the great mystic and only celebrations all around. Thirdly, If they wanted him to connect with the lives of real people in urban Pakistan, events could have been organised all over Karachi city, for instance: in Orangi town to commemorate the memory of Dr Akhter Hameed Khan, who inspired the lives of millions, and celebrate the craftsmanship of the weavers and block printers, whose ancestors migrated from Benaras to settle there. An event in Lyari which has been the stronghold of his mother and grand father's party and has produced our only gold medalist Olympian, and an event for the benefit of the many thousands of women and children who have found a home at the Edhi Trust or have been attended by the world's largest Edhi ambulance service. Lastly, If the young Zardari (the Bhutto middle name, ironically came after BB was no more) seeks to find his place on the national stage, he has to first win the hearts & minds of the common person in Pakistan. Making the right noises in a tutored speech may make a fine narrative, essential for consumption by the world press corp, but unless he touches the lives of ordinary Pakistanis like his grand father, he won't get very far. Lets not forget that during the1997 elections, the weekend supplements of almost the entire British press had only one picture on their front page, as the future Prime Minister of Pakistan, and it was none other than Imran Khan. F Zehra Hasan
Sam | 10 years ago | Reply @ Lubna Solangi “The Sind festival by simply focusing on our links with an empire that vanished 2000 BC” @ hassam khan “It was about disowning Muhammad bin Qasim, it was about going back to the perverted rule of Raja Dahir.” Amusing statements from these two individuals who bear surnames derived from Hindu Rajput Chauhans and Shamanistic/Buddhist Mongols. Like it or not, we the people of South Asia are Raja Dahir and also Muhammad bin Qasim. We are the Indus valley civilization that grew from a few hundred thousand individuals into 1.5 billion individuals. Just today I was reading up on our, that’s right OUR ancestor, Pingala who lived about 2000 years ago. His works contain the first mention of the binary numeral system. This is the heritage that you want to discard? More strength to these festivals …
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